Round 2: Another European Sortie

Podgorica to Ulcinj

Another 'don't know where' day. But late on I chatted with the Ilya, DJ at the pub to compliment him on his musical choices. No bouncy Europop rubbish here, many solid classics. He tells me that I should see Ulcinj as it is very pretty and is a not to miss Montenegro destination. So I'll go today.
Back at the hotel I'm chatting with a Macedonian gent; It's a good chat, he struggles at first to find the right English words, but they come. He's happy to talk to someone from England and use his language with a native. I ask what is the best of his country and he tells me that I should visit the town of Ohrid, so I'll put that in the bank for later.

I check out of the hotel. Very friendly, Basic, clean, safe parking in front of the hotel, large omlette to start me off, and mandatory cappuccino. 32 Euros, luvvly jubbly as Del Boy would say.

Some interesting breakfast options..

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.. And I wonder what a Becendec is? I should have asked the hotel guy, he couldn't be more friendly.

In other positive news Mr Badger's neat trick with the Zumo and liquid soap seems to have done the trick for now. I shall give it more tender loving care tonight. Thanks again there.

It's hot hot hot- Pannier lid is so hot that it is too hot to touch.. gloves on to load up :eek

To the road and things are better with some breeze. The run today will be short, Ulcinj being an hour and a bit dawdle, so I relax and take it easy, stopping for a coffee by the Skadar Lake after half an hour or so. All set I head back out to the road. Moments after a Renault Megane is overtaking coming the other way and doesn't see me, plain as day as I am. I veer away on to the gravel at the roadside and do well. Idiot now sees me and aborts overtake halfway through and almost totals the car he's trying to overtake. He gets it very out of shape and how there's not an accident there I know not. Shortly after I'm recklessly undertaken on a dual carriageway as I'm almost passing a coach; some fat idiot in a Passat on the phone is just trying to barge through any ways. Less than two minutes later we're stopped at a toll booth for the tunnel towards the town of Bar. I signal to him in the adjacent lane. He lowers his window 'Do you speak English?' I politely ask 'Yes' says fatty. 'Ah that's good' I say, and I give him some choice words and it's all good because he'll understand them :D A princely single euro paid to get through the tunnel and I'm feeling better for the rant. Boss Hogg in his VW has rocketed off, stuck to the bumper of some other poor sod, which suits me, I'm sure wouldn't be the wise to get into a game.
Normally I'll hold my tongue as I view it as a biker you can only lose, but this time was enough for me, just totally crazy :mad:

OK, so the driving standard is indeed rubbish, but it'll take more than an almost catastrophic brown pants moment and a lardy local to keep me down.

The road from Bar to Ulcinj is crowded and going is slow, but I don't mind as an easy chug and there's minimal fuss. I get a hotel which is cheap and fine. Slightly dubious plumbing but I think that's mandatory here. Although the booking.com advertised private parking is the street I sense that isn't a problem as I've been blocked in by a Maxi Scooter for the last three hours but they've kindly left the keys in the ignition. Not a great pic, but the keys are there..

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Later on time for a walk out to the old town. It's nice enough but was a foolish decision to venture there in flip-flops. The place is a trip hazard in normal shoes, let alone these. It's pleasant enough but there's litter everywhere. Hey ho.
A lovely evening view out to sea..

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Time to eat! Some fried cheese to start and then a calzone affair, quoting ham but it's spam more like, with a side order of french fries so large they should have been brought in a wheelbarrow. I make up for yesterday's lack of food. It does the job and hits the spot alright :thumb

I reflect that I've been lucky on the road today and am really thankful for it.

Where to go tomorrow? Blimey, better get a think on.
 
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Roberto - just wanted to say how much I am enjoying living your travels through these great write-ups. Unfortunately my own health means I'm limited to a couple of hours' bimble through the Yorkshire Dales so I'm insanely jealous. :D

Keep up the good 'work'! :thumb
 
Thank you again for the comments.. appreciated :thumb2

Ulcinj to erm.. Ulcinj


I sat up until around midnight and looked about on what to do tomorrow. Again, I wasn't sure, so thought I'd sleep on it. I slept and woke up, a bit disorientated and not knowing what time it was. Very dark curtains in the hotel room, so I wander to the balcony door.. and its pitch black. 2am. But I'm now wide awake, so I pop outside to catch the night air.

Parking Montenegro Style..

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A 10 minute walk and so to bed again.

I hear my 8.20 alarm and press snooze. Another ten minutes. And then I wake up and get up. I look at my phone.. And the time is 11.49. I check the time elsewhere, too. Nuts. I'm eleven minutes from check out and was intending to have a decent 9.30 start. Bang goes that, then.
Rather than go bananas trying to get out I kick back for a minute and call down to reception. She laughs. They have the room for another day, so we'll go with it. So it'll be a day off. 'We'll take care of your alarm call tomorrow then?' she jokes.

I do feel a lot better, though. I guess this is the culmination of all that had gone on in recent days. Perhaps I'll write a paper: 'Effects of alcohol, poor nutrition and sleep deprivation on the adventure motorcyclist'. I can post some extra drivel here and get publicly funded for my first class degree in stating the bleeding obvious.

I do a few maintenance chores and provide some more love to the screen of my Zumo with liquid soap.. (Copyright Mr. Badger Solutions 2012, all rights reserved)

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I pop down to the beachfront for some late lunch..

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..and liquid refreshment. 'Barkeep.. Niksicko Gold if you please'..

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I do a bit of trip planning, in order to firm up at least a little of what I'm doing. Some research here and I'm sorted. Three ferries booked and a plan hatched.. so now I don't need to wing it quite so much.

I'd pledged to friends that there'd be no more beach photos in my dispatches to home. In the words of Arnold Schwarznegger in Commando.. "I lied.." (How's that for a low-brow quote for you then? :D ).

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Mind you, this will be the last I think for a while. Some of the Speedo clad contingent are beginning to freak me out.

On the road tomorrow for sure :thumb2
 
milka jaffa red cross parcel wanted please :aidan

i pay you many monies :D :bow
 
milka jaffa red cross parcel wanted please :aidan

i pay you many monies :D :bow

I'll second that :thumb

By my calculations, I am precisely 1,322 miles from Ballistic at this point. Now, given the variables i.e.

- One fat man on a motorcycle
- with still a large quantity of UK origin tea bags to hand
- carrying two packets of Jaffa Cakes

What odds do you possibly think that there is even the slightest chance of said goodies making it back to the UK? :confused:

:thumb2
 
in the first few pics you had a pic and it showed youd brought your own :D

ps ballistic has spoken to uk border agency i think :aidan

fat bloke? youre mo farah compared to some on here :D
 
:D :beerjug:

Ulcinj to Elshani

I had good day yesterday and a very pleasant evening. I caught up with the news, watched a bit of cricket, used Skype (I still marvel at the video call thing), fuddled around on UKGSer for a bit and e-mailed a few people I'd been meaning to.

I get a chance to reflect on Montenegro; such curious place. Tremendously raw. But hospitable. A place of the unexpected; odd twists. They fastidiously clean a section of the promenade in the town, but there's litter everywhere else. Saggy faced old men come into cafes offering a huge selection of cigarettes (Paging Pablo1). People treble park in Ambulance bays. The phone company texts you the weather forecast..

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And the phone company call me 'Dear' which reminds me of home :D

Strange, weird, fun place.

It got to about 10.45pm and I decided to go for a swift walk before bed. Everything is still open. Tat shops, shoe shops, cafes, even the local Supermarket. I pop into a tat shop and we have more amusing exchanges with my trying to buy some stickers, which they don't have. The lad desperately wants to understand what I'm talking about, so he drags a girl in off of the street who decodes my gibberish. They're all ever so polite.

Now, of course I love a stroll in a exotic supermarkets, so it seems like a suitable time to inspect the best of Montenegro's wares.

Even their snacks are polite..

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.. And more Jaffa Cake porn, just for me you understand :aidan

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The locals think I'm an odd one, wandering round, smiling and taking photographs.

I'm up early with my 8am alarm call coming at 8.40, what I see as pretty typical Montenegro :)
Bike packed up with minimal fuss, but a local police chappy is wandering up and down, blowing his whistle and pointing. He goes past a few times and looks at me and the bike from behind his dark glasses. I get the feeling once I get to go I'll be in for a few questions, but he gets distracted by a double parking German registered VW causing a bit of traffic bother and I'm able to nip off.

It's funny. I get some apprehension about going on today. Not sure where from. I'm on my own and with speaking to folks back at home yesterday I get a bit of a strange feeling. Probably good old fashioned home sickness I suppose, which no doubt will evaporate after five minutes of when I get back.

It's a half an hour jaunt to the border, where I crossed last time into Albania, so all is familiar. The road that was still gravel and under construction on my last pass some couple of months ago is now finished and is glorious. I'm only held up by wandering packs of donkeys who don't much fancy moving.

The queue at the border is very long. So much for this not being the popular crossing point. There must have been at least 50 cars in a line, I toddle past with a little ready local knowledge, and wheel up to the pedestrian slot on the bike. I unwittingly go past the first point in the process, not seeing through the silvery tinted windows, and there's a hefty bang on them. I wheel back, and the window slides open, revealing a guard with a toothy grin. 'Sorry' I say I couldn't see'.. 'No problem' he smiles. He puts all the other papers aside and deals with mine, hands it to the next guard and I'm through in no more than four minutes. The bike is saying 37 degrees, so how sweet is that.

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There's a familiar twist again to all things Albanian. A cow in an open trailer being towed by old Mercedes; A man on a cart smiles and waves; an old guy in a comedy trilby is carrying huge bags of onions on a Moped. Its super to be back and sample the flavour again.

The main road towards Lezhe is a repeat of last time before I change course. It couldn't be more different. There's an instant traffic jam and woven into it large numbers of beggars, young children and women. I'm mostly ignored which is good news, aside from two lads who want me to rev the bike. I do so, but they're underwhelmed by the sewing machine style vroom of the GS. Some of the beggars are aggressive to the locals, but I figure that's because the locals look as though they'd quite happy to run them over given the chance.

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It's not easy going. There's a huge amount of traffic and I'm stunned at just how many Italian and German motors there are heading through. Last time the locals parted to let me go past, now it's a very different story. Presumably they're fed up with holiday season. The going gets better, but as we get out to the flat plains the wind picks up and the bike becomes a bit of a handful in the blustery windes. There's some crap driving around, but the worst offender is in a UK registered brand new Citroen. Oh, the shame.

Once I get through Lezhe I figure to fill up and stumble upon the Eco garage that I recall I stopped in before. Figuring that's a more recognised brand in the Balkans and I could perhaps use my card, I opt to fill up. Nope, I can't use my card. Drat. But I still have some Leke from the last go, so on seeing the conkers chappy gives me the thumb up and fills up. Enough left for a coke and a coffee no doubt so I drop in to the café. I'm served by the same guy as before, and remember his name is Albert because that's the same name as our Central Midfielder in my Sunday Football team, and he's from Albania too. He's stunned that I remember him and he shakes my hand like Mr Shaky Shaky hand from Banzai. All very nice. I get my hand back eventually, we have a quick chat and some light refreshment.

Still three and a half hours in the seat, so best move along.

Ah the lovely world of life on the Albanian highway..

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I'm looking for the road referenced 'SH7', but the junction is blocked off with no offer of any diversion. So I find the next available junction some kms down the line to try and link up. I cross the river. The new bridge is better than the old one..

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.. But only marginally, it has to be said. Nice surface.. :D

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Correct road picked up and it’s a decent ride up towards the Macedonian border. Much traffic at first, but I get a decent run on, and the road is my own. I get to the border. A fair wait this time which can't be avoided :(

Duty free not doing so well..

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Here we are.. It's all squiggles again :blast

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I run in to Ohrid and grab a room at a guest house in the Village of Elshani. It's very peaceful, the owners hospitable with two carafes of very decent home made wine followed by a raki. I talk with a German guest, Eckhardt, who has been visiting the Balkan region since the early nineties regularly and has formed a great love with the place and the people.
It's easy to see his fascination.
 
A fabulous report Roberto,

Thanks for taking the time.:beerjug:
 
Elshani to Kastoria

Today day is set up with quite simply the most phenomenal breakfast from Anita at Risto's guest house. Egg, Sausage, Salami, dressed tomatoes, Goat Cheese, Bread, Leek Pie, Turkish Coffee.. And a chocolate pastry..

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I leave Risto's. I don't have any Macedonian currency, so I offer to head to the bank in the centre of Ohrid and return. 'Just to get money for us? Don't be silly, we'll take Euro, that's no problem'. All rather helpful.
They don't charge me for the wine the mineral waters, or the raki. 'That's on us, you are welcome.' Anita insists. 'Come back anytime'. I don't do a lot of plugging but Risto's Guest House is heartily recommended for a quiet, pleasant, pretty stopover and a splendid Macedonian welcome..


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I leave Elshani, away from the town of Orhid and head south down the lake side, a very nice and gentle pleasant ride. I head towards Sveti Neum and the monastery, passing the museum on the water, recreating how settlements used to be all around Lake Ohrid..

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I get to the monastery; it is shaded. I am attacked by vicious gangs of mossies as soon as I stop. Crazy.. they're bleedin' ferocious, so I shift, and can't find a decent place to put the bike, so sod this, I'm off. Going back up towards the junction that will take me across to Lake Prespansko on the other side of the mountains I am flagged down by a biker and his pillion, I'd overtaken them on the way down. He's on a chinese cruiser and the gearbox is well and truly knackered. I can't help, but he's OK as he only lives at the North side of the lake. We chat for a bit and I'm on my way.

Back up to head across the pass. A beautiful view of stunning Lake Ohrid, climbing up and over.

Eastern Albania in the distance on the other side of the lake..

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Let me tell you the ride up was something, a real joy.

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On the way down the other side the road is poor and winding, but still fun. I leave the bike in second and cruise down, avoiding the pot holes and warped parts of the surface. I get a strange déjà vu feeling of freewheeling on a Raleigh Grifter as a kid.

Today is a day for music. To the curves of the pass I listen Marco Fullone's 'No Ordinary Chill' which suits the pace and mood perfectly. I'm taking the time to smell the flowers, or at least smell my zesty fresh soapy Zumo at any rate. Plenty of stops, plenty of photos, punctuated with a liberal sprinkling of standing about.

I've made my way down and join up with the lakeside road now, heading round to join with the main road to Greece.

Pick a speed to suit your mood..

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One country, many religions.. (That's a mosque in the background, picture not as clever as I thought it was)

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As 'Luk' would have it... a petrol station that digs Mastercard :) so I get to fill up before I get to Greece; a few bob saved..

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I depart and head through Bitola to go South. We're in the flatlands and I float along nicely. More music: this time the Happy Mondays' 'Loose Fit' stands out, just ending as I cruise into the border post. Splendid. It's a quick crossing with minimal fuss and two refreshingly cheery sets of border folks.

My brief experience of Macedonia is a really positive one and I certainly want to head back. The people seem more approachable and openly friendlier than their more Northerly Balkan neighbours. They are more laid back; it seems the men are less 'Macho'; the driving appears more relaxed. I wonder if this is to do with recent history and how FYROM peacefully slipped away from Yugoslavia, avoiding the war.

And so I cross from Macedonia to… Macedonia. Well, the Western Macedonia province of Greece. The Greeks dispute the country of Macedonia using the name, blocking the FYROM EU and NATO intentions. Relations are not exactly at their best.

I settle on a looping route that will take me towards Kastorias, but heading in from the east, with an inviting wobbly road featured on the map. It is a stunning ride in, virtually no traffic as I ride towards the hills I'm treated to Nuyorican Soul's 'I am the Black Gold of the Sun'. I slow down and punch the air, what a day, what a ride :bounce1

I stop in a spot where the sprinkler from the farm spills out on to the road for a quick cool down before attacking the road up..

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The ride up is the gift that keeps on giving. Great roads, no traffic rewarding curves, great views.

Up in the hills I decide that the town taverna signs are too good to miss, so I stop for late lunch. A bit greedy considering breakfast, but I didn't eat last night, aside nothing more than an emergency jaffa cake. That's my excuse, anyway.

An itching for Greek Salad is scratched.. So fresh, out of this world..

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.. More Chips than Erik Estrada and Larry Wilcox combined.. eek.

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.. Oh yes, I'm on a roll now. (oh alright, on a stick then).

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I am full at this point, certainly no space for the 'waffer theen' mint. This evening's suspension setting will be mostly set to 'comfort' :D And so it is, for a fine run down to Kastoria, with picturesque evening views..

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Into Kastoria for a look round.. An tempting local inn.. :D

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I find a very nice hotel just outside. Feet up. Tomorrow I shall pass through the Katafigio Agrias Zois Kastanofyto Melanthio Zevgostasio Niki Lagka Park. I'll make sure I've got it clearly marked on the map so I don't have to ask directions to it ;)

And thanks for putting up with my indulgence of my own K-Tel Classics Collection, too :thumb2
 
I could have sworn you mentioned heading to Norway.. or was that before the airport exit's "I'll go north/south depending on the next car" moment? :nenau
Looks like you made a good choice, though :clap
 


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