New Super Tenere Battery Time - when did you replace yours ?

Banzai600

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Been having a few issues with the bike of late, its kind of not starting great :rolleyes: I use this bike every day in all weathers, seems odd battery is fading. And its in a nice dry garage at night.

This starting issue has been quite sporadic, but over the last week has gotten much worse. The bike is almost flooding as the battery doesnt seem to have the muscle to crank the engine. Will have a deep test on it today / tomorrow to check but, i reckon its the battery and its fubar-red.

I got the bike late '12 and it was only in the cuntry a month or so before i bought it.

( Im gonna go for a Motobatt anyway. I have one in the doocati, they're strong on ampage for turnover and hold a good charge ).

Just wondering has anyone else replaced a battery after 2.5 yrs ?

Looks like a handy change out.

Yamaha_Super_Tenere_0001.jpg
 
Hi
Can't provide direct answer and apologies if you are already aware but have you seen threads on yamahasupertenere.com and elsewhere on "hard starting"? A mate of mine had this and (if I recall correctly) dealer advised clearing excess fuel by briefly activating starter motor with fuse to fuel pump removed. However, I think activating starter for a few seconds with fully open throttle has the same or similar effect. After clearing fuel, bike tends to start normally. Haven't had the issue myself (or any other at all) and battery still fine 3+ years old. There's a lot of discussion around when and why "hard starting" occurs may be helpful. It seems to be one of very few issues affecting the S10. However, it may just be that your battery is goosed, of course. There seems to be a percentage of S10 owners who replce them with Lithium batteries. I don't understand the pros and cons but may be worth googling.
 
The previous owner of my S10 had replaced his battery,I have it connected up to a optimate when in the garage,the cold kills them.


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My S10 is on the OE Yuasa battery. 19000 miles, registered in Jan 2011. It's in a cozy garage now but spent 2 of the last 4 years parked outside. It's never seen the Optimate.
 
Tks for replies. Yeah, i read all "hard start" threads.

well today, the bike flooded itself, wouldnt catch. Batt was 9.1v when "deep tested" yesterday. Thats too low. The current battery is a Yuasa & in bike from new. So now it will be new motobatt tomorrow.

The guy who will be doing the ecu reflash here for me reckons the batteries Yamaha recommend arent strong enough for the engine to turn over, who knows.....
 
Tks for replies. Yeah, i read all "hard start" threads.

well today, the bike flooded itself, wouldnt catch. Batt was 9.1v when "deep tested" yesterday. Thats too low. The current battery is a Yuasa & in bike from new. So now it will be new motobatt tomorrow.

The guy who will be doing the ecu reflash here for me reckons the batteries Yamaha recommend arent strong enough for the engine to turn over, who knows.....

It is a physically small battery but your guys may need to update their thinking as AGM batteries are much more efficient - that little YTZ12S from Yuasa pumps out 210 CCA which is much more than the massive "19" wet battery that came in my R1150GS made in 2000. http://store.yuasabatteries.com/p/ytz12s

Note that the recommended Motobatt has a spec of 160 CCA http://www.motobatt.com/MBTX9U, which should be perfectly adequate.

CCA = cold cranking amps
 
It is a physically small battery but your guys may need to update their thinking as AGM batteries are much more efficient - that little YTZ12S from Yuasa pumps out 210 CCA which is much more than the massive "19" wet battery that came in my R1150GS made in 2000. http://store.yuasabatteries.com/p/ytz12s

Note that the recommended Motobatt has a spec of 160 CCA http://www.motobatt.com/MBTX9U, which should be perfectly adequate.

CCA = cold cranking amps


cheers Wessie.


went to batt store this morning. The guy gave me a Unitbat, 12v. He reckons himself the bike may need a 14v but i went with the 12v from Unitbat. He didnt have the motobatt so I went with his recommendation.

The yuasa was rubbish, wlays felt weak to be honest the more i think about it. Cudda been a dud from day one.

Change out batt and plugs tonight, this car lark to work is a nightmare.



EDIT: Just cross checked both motobatt ( 3.4 kgs / 160 cca ) and Unitbat ( 3 kgs / 210 cca ). So makes the Unitbatt lighter with more amps !
 
New Unitbat and plugs went it last night, hit the button, the 'kin thing flooded again, but, got it going.

Reduced o2 through the config on the dash an it started fine this morning......Techy guy reckons valvle clearance, but its not due for another 10k kms :nenau

A lot of head scratching, the bike was fine up until 2 weeks ago when it started having issues starting sporadically :confused:
 
reduced o2 through the config on the dash?

what do you mean by that?
(sorry - nowt to do with batteries that is it)
 
New Unitbat and plugs went it last night, hit the button, the 'kin thing flooded again, but, got it going.

Reduced o2 through the config on the dash an it started fine this morning......Techy guy reckons valvle clearance, but its not due for another 10k kms :nenau

A lot of head scratching, the bike was fine up until 2 weeks ago when it started having issues starting sporadically :confused:

start with the basics - check connections first, at the battery, then the earth points on the engine & frame, then connections to the starter, alternator, regulator

if the engine is sluggish to turn when pressing the starter button it is not going to be valve clearances

does it happen when the engine is warm? Is it more frequent on cold, icy mornings? If the answer is no to the warm engine question or yes to the icy morning question then review the oil you are using. When I used 20w/50 oil in my BMW it could be quite sluggish to start on a frosty morning. My Super tenere is fine with the recommended 10W/40 in all weathers.
 
I have had new bikes where the batteries only lasted a couple of years, my S10 is now over 3 years old with 19k on the clock - and fired really easy having been left sat for about 6 weeks the other day.

So many variables with battery life IMO, but you can guarantee no manufacturer will fit the best as OE, when mine starts feeling iffy I will just fit a high quality replacement.
 
Mines the original too . 3 years old and never been on the optimate
 
Thread resurrection!

My S10 is now 6½ years old with ~40,000 miles. The useless piece of junk actually let me down yesterday for the first time when it failed to restart when hot after a short stop.

A set of jump leads attached to my daughters car and it started instantly so it looks as though the battery may be weak. Ridiculous, nothing lasts these days! :augie

What is the current view on quality batteries? I replaced the GS one in '13 with a Motobatt but the CCA of 160 for the S10 doesn't look the best. Anyone using this without issues?

I see that you can now get lithion ion replacements which should give greater power for a given size. Again, anybody tried oneof these in an S10?
 
After 4 years I went for a Yuasa YTZ14S for a bit more cranking power. Bought from Tayna and a straight swap, no messing.


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S10 starting

Hello
On the RHS just above the battery is the starters relay.Check the connection are tight.If in doubt take off clean up and fresh grease.Worth checking.
Rgds Allan
 
Mine failed the day I sold it, funnily enough the bike I part ex to buy the S10 a GSA did the same the day I had to take it to the dealer the battery was flat. Mind you the GSA had 4 batteries in 6 years, but the S10's was one 5 years old.
 
change it

If you think battery is suspect Change it! I have had 2 hard starts with my S10 in 3 years both after driving 200 yards to my local garage, so now I get at least a mile under its belt before stopping.
I Had starting probs with a ST1050 it would crank all day but wouldnt start found battery would drop to 9v during a start (not enough to fire ECU) so I think some of the S10s hard start probs are battery related.
 
So I opted for a Lithium battery. 0.9Kgs instead of 3.7Kgs and the bike starts better than it ever has. Streets cheaper than the standard battery too, well happy. At least I will be as long as it lasts 10 years. :)

Only downside is that if it goes flat I'll need a special charger that doesn't exceed 14.4 volts. My modern clever one would on desulphate mode and my ancient car charger (inherited from my FiL 31 years ago) runs up to 14.9 volts.
 
So I opted for a Lithium battery. 0.9Kgs instead of 3.7Kgs and the bike starts better than it ever has. Streets cheaper than the standard battery too, well happy. At least I will be as long as it lasts 10 years. :)

Only downside is that if it goes flat I'll need a special charger that doesn't exceed 14.4 volts. My modern clever one would on desulphate mode and my ancient car charger (inherited from my FiL 31 years ago) runs up to 14.9 volts.

some chargers can be put into a mode that won't allow desulphation - my Optimate 4 can be put into "canbus" mode which just uses a maintenance mode as well as having the wake up thing.

Reading the instructions, even in normal mode, if the Optimate 4 detects a battery is in circuit it won't start the recovery cycle.

Check your manual, you might be okay if you leave the battery on the bike and just use maintenance mode.

alternatively, just buy a Noco Genius that does everything from 6V to lithium 12V
 


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