Off to Iran, at last

Day 6: I visit the Kesan Post Office

As the PTT or Post Office is about 150metres from my hotel, I decide to start the day with a visit there. Even though I am undecided on my track across the country, I want to buy a motorway pass - it's electronic and automatically deduce the toll from your account, as you cannot at on the motorway itself).

When I arrive for the 0830 opening I discover from the neat ticketing system I am already Number 30, and the place is rammed:

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It's pension day I think and I am asked for advice by various elderly ladies about the queue system which is numbered - I even manage to explain by sign language to Number 46, a slightly 80+ year old, that she has a while to wait given Number 28 only just came up. I also explain to another old dear how the ticket machine works - all without a word of Turkish ;-)

I can tell it will be a while so I go back to the hotel and pack, returning for my time to be served at 0920. All is going swimmingly and after numerous goes and my work is reviewed and I am asked smilingly to do it better, again. Then a long silence and a scurrying to the back room and finally an apologetic admission: 'we don't have any motorcycle passes in stock, perhaps you can try Ipsala' - this is somewhere ~I had passed 30 Kms before so that ain't going to happen!

But I am in no rush, so it's all part of the fun. It even helps my decision making because heavy rain s forecast for Istanbul whist the Dardanelles/Gelibolu route looks dry. The prospect of navigating through thousands of gridlocked Turks over the Fatima Mehmet Bosphorus bridge on a heavy laden bike IN THE RAIN was not in the least attractive.
So I headed South

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and at Gelibolu there was a selection of attractive ferry boats, Spe of which might have been less than 50 years old (although I wouldn't bet on that!)

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I nab the best place on the boat.
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But avoid the inflight catering
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I see a police speed check quite soon (helpfully alerted by an oncoming driver who flashes his lights) but in general the roads are wide, good and entry and the sun shines.

I stop for petrol and to munch my lunch. Then follows a planning conference since I now wish to avid motorways where possible - not only are they boring but I have no pass.



I decide I will aim for Eskisehir, reputedly 'the happiest town in Turkey' and one of the more liberal. I stayed here in 2008, o the way back from Syria, when my recollections were clouded by being half-beat with some 24 hour flu, so I just collapsed into my bed.

It is also notable as the Hellenic Dorylaion where in 1097 the Crusaders thumped the Seljuks, a compliment the latter more than returned in 1147!

Then my GPS froze so I decided to pull into a rare MacDonalds to have a coffee, avail of their wifi and fix the GPS.

'We have no wifi', they admitted so I contented myself with opening up the GPS in their car park and disconnecting the battery. Soon it was right as rain.

Fortunately the second garage I interviewed admitted to having wifi (it was a Shell garage) so I gave them my custom and enjoyed a pleasant cup of cay whilst I searched booking.com for a worthy accommodation which I found beside the mosque in the old Ottoman quarter.

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Definitely a better country for Carnivores than vegans:
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I think I will have a morning off tomorrow, as by my reckoning I have done 2,500 miles since leaving England on Wednesday. Feeling good, though, as settling into a relaxed riding routine.


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Today was a day spent riding the high plains of Anatolia, ending up in Pinarbasi. Photos don't do justice to the vastness but here goes IMG_5028.jpg
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And here was my helpful navigator from yesterday - one of the many Turkish petrol station staff who have done their best to help me despite my nonexistent Turkish
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Today, off to see Nemrut Dagi - there are so many amazing sights to divert me but I hope to reach Iran soon!
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Turkey is easy to travel in as the petrol stations are always ready for credit cards. Iran will be a shock! (No credit cards or ATMs for me!)
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Ha- my guess that GSER was found in Germany turned out to be correct and I can thus now comment on your trip. Obviously not that many actual Germans in this group as I was the first one to take the username of Johan
 
If you happen to pass the ancient Hittite city of Alacahöyük, you may want to have a look. Or even more interesting for me, Göbekli Tepe., the 10,000 - 8,000 BC pre pottery neolithic settlement, with the first ever "temple- long before the neophytes in the Levant. However, Turkey is a huge country and I suspect you may be taking a route straight through the middle between these two sites on your way to Iran.
 
"...you will be delighted, dear reader,that I did not visit and photograph any more mosaics today!"
Simon, I think that you can be very reasonably assured that each of us following your adventure are only too happy to see more of just about everything!
Your travels serve to reassure that the 'human interaction' is one of the most enjoyable aspects of exploring as a stranger in a foreign land....Thanks for taking the time to share.
Safe riding!
 
Only intermittent electricity so can't post for now - but will include some humans!


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And prompted by Kitsilano, some human interact from today. Electricity is sporadic due to high winds, let alone wifi, so ride report later I suspect.

Some gents who gave me tea and admired the distance from Ireland to Iran
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The local electricity board workers were big users of my lodging last night and ate a hearty but healthy breakfast since it was fresh salad and olives and feta style cheese, washed down with lots of tea
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Power keeps going off so will post this when it comes on




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My hosts at Nemrut
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And some stony people at Nemrut Dagi
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Plus some stunning scenery

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Good man Simon, really enjoying this.

I found the Turkish people really friendly, especially out of the cities. And I love the way you get a glass of chi in almost every petrol station.

Just above Tatvan there's Nemrut crater. When Aidan & I were there 2 years ago they were busy making new roads around it, some done with small pavers, but some of it's probably still gravel. Beautiful quiet place to ride around.

Oh, if you see a Vario topbox between Kars & the border it's probably mine :blast
 
Cheers Jockser and thanks for the tips. If I see a local scoot with a classy top box I will know its origin.

Won't be hitting Kars this trip - thank heavens as I froze there last May. But lovely town and subject of a good novel by Orhan Panuk called 'Snow' - you might enjoy it, knowing the town.


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Day 8

I was so busy fiddling with power cuts last night that I gave a poor report of the day. Here is a bit more, and apologies if I repeat some photos.

I followed some great curvy country roads and some biggish roads, all under a constant sun. I had to fiddle with the GPS to get it to take me on the back roads that I wanted -but it got its revenge later in the day as I approached Nemrut Dagi.
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I was coming from the Southern side which seems recommended. Soon, not having looked at my fuel tank, I turned off the main road following Garmin directions to the Nemrut Pansiyan.

As the GPS screen showed me 25 Kms of switchback roads ahead to my destination, I recalled a phrase from the Lonely Planet guide to Turkey that there were 2 southern routes, and said of one: "be prepared for...some rough and winding roads. Confident drivers only, please ". Well that bit was certainly right but (and I had forgotten this) the guide also says 'Make sure you have fuel' which I had not done!

Should have checked this:
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So as the afternoon shadow lengthened, and the road curved and swooped, climbing inexorably, I realised I had done a lot of miles on this tank of fuel and then the Garmin said 'off route' and I came across this bunch of goats.
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The goatherd seemed to think I cold get over the mountain ridge eventually but I was not occidental. However, 4 Kms short of the peak a road lead downhill to Keradut - and I decided not to use 8kms of fuel going to the peak until I knew where the next benzin lay.

About 8 or 9kms later (and NOT where Garmin said it was) I found the Nemrut and was offered a choice of fairly basic rooms - but it beat sleeping besides a cold and empty-tanked motorcycle by a long chalk!

It was a nice agricultural village

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A long discussion with my host elicited the view that whilst there was dizel nearer, I would have to go to Menzil, 35 Kms away, to have any chance of petrol.

So that set the stage for the following day: Mission 1, find petrol! It's ironic (and serves me right) that I had been reflecting earlier in the day that Turkey is the most over-supplied country with filling stations everywhere, perhaps subsidised by the very high petrol prices. I was learning the hard way that this was not the case here.

So the next morning I set off with this gift for paying my bill (the one other guests were a Turkish couple). Hopefully it will bring me good luck!

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Simon, So now you have your own miniature 'stony people' to keep you company....and to keep an eye on your fuel gauge for you whilst you are daydreaming! Wonderful weather so far and great photos, thanks.
 
A few road photos from today

What, another sunny day dawns?!?
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Fantastic jam even if the portion at breakfast did not, for once, provide lunch too
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Even a spanner won't squeeze out more petrol
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Photos on the move or at traffic lights

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I gave this truck a wide berth when I passed it
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Even though I was a big fan of the caped crusader as a kid I had to give this a miss today
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Simon, You should send that one photo of the sheep grazing at the traffic lights, to your local council as 'rate payer cost saving idea of the week' - they just might send you a petrol voucher as a prize! Have to think about the over-loaded truck next time Plod pull you over for a 'homologated equipment' check!
 
Cay and petrol day, ending up at Lake Van

This was the day when I started with one simple objective - get some petrol in the bike.

After breakfast I free wheeled as far as I could down the mountain to conserve fuel - and when I got to Narinc, I spotted a brand new filling station and coasted up to the pump. But the kindly attend at told me 'No benzin - try Menzel'. He offered me cay but I declined as I had not one thing on my mind.

I now had to decide whether to chance the 45kms to Garmin's first posted fuel station on my route East, or to play safe and divert to Menzel. I chose the safe route and at each of a couple of stations en route to Menzel I was again offered cay but no benzin was to be had - but each agreed Menzel was the place to go, which was encouraging! When I finally made it into Menzel 35 Kms later I was delighted to fill up, despite the surly staff (maybe their control of the region's benzin supply made them arrogant?). And hey wouldn't accept a credit card so I had to tap the ATM opposite, for the first time this trip.

So I turned around and headed for Diyerbakir direction, looking forward to the posted Ferribot that would take me across the lake.

Then I was greeted by this grand new bridge:

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And I suppose this is the now redundant ferry, sitting sadly on the shore.

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I stopped for a formal lunch for once

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One 10 km stretch was gravel and earth which was quite demanding - too demanding for one local driver, who was sat by the side of the road contemplating the wreck of his newish car that he had just rolled.

I realised why they were reworking the road when I saw this surface

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There were lots of police / army checkpoints and machine gun barricades along the route - a reflection of local tensions as I entered increasingly Kurdish areas.

I was finally stopped at a police checkpoint near Bitlis, having been waved through previous ones. One of the policemen gave me an apple and then took a thorough look in each pannier and asked what the bike is worth (I feel like saying - 'not much after this trip with a likely 120k Kms on it') but decide not to.

Time to refuel (I am being very cautious now) and these chaps invite me to cay and enjoy some local grapes in the sun - very civilised!
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I took a tour of the fascinating little town of Bitlis, as it has been suggested as a stopover point- it feels very middle eastern and sits in a tight crevasse. The traffic is slow and a kindly young man removes a barrier so I can ride over the fresh cement (it was dry, honest!) into the town centre where I weave slowly through the pedestrians and take in the atmosphere

But having soaked it all up, I decide it's Tatvan for me and off I go getting my first view of the massive Lake Van.

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Tatvan has a pleasant seafront, but in the side streets lots of men sitting round as here:

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Another view f Van from Hotel Cinc
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