Mangarakau

MikeO

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Dereham, Norfolk, today...
24th February 2017

This was a horrible motel – just grotty and cheap. Unfortunately I’d made the mistake of paying for two nights, so I was stuck. The Wi-Fi connection was pretty flaky too.

I spent yesterday doing various admin things and trying to pay off my mortgage. Unfortunately, despite arranging to do this with Nationwide before I left the UK, I couldn’t get any of the online stuff to work…

So I stuck the money (paid to me yesterday as part of my delayed Police pension) in my savings account and will try to sort it out on my next admin day – when I will ensure I’m somewhere with good Wi-Fi…

I get up and shower, pack the bike and I’m on the road for just after 0900. I have a long way to go today – and some of it will be on gravel roads. The forecast is for sunny weather all the way, but Greymouth is suffering from a high overcast and a bit of lingering sea mist.

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I set off along Highway 6, which follows the west coast – I rode down this way on my down from Nelson, earlier this month…

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Diversification - that's the key to success in business...
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It’s 62°F and slightly humid, but I have the vents open on my jacket and it’s a comfortable day to be riding. The road is quiet and the scenery just beautiful…

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…I’m continually reminded of riding the Pacific Coast Highway in California…

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…although here, I’m riding on the correct side of the road… :D

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The road is twisty enough to be fun and ensure you pay attention…

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…but there’s always time to savour a new view as it appears…

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I had a pizza yesterday lunchtime and nothing since, so I feel a spot of breakfast might be in order…

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I pull into the Punakaiki Tavern, guarded by a couple of plastic dray horses…

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…and order…

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…The Kiwi Breakfast and a mug of tea. The food’s good, but expensive – I also notice they charge for use of their internet and add extra if you want to recharge your device. Not a good idea (I didn’t need to use it – but everywhere else I’ve stopped has offered it for free). Maybe that’s why I was the only customer?

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It’s about 1000 by the time I come back out to the bike and the temperature has risen to 70°F…

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…and this has started to burn off the cloud left on the hilltops. It’s absolutely beautiful and as good a day’s riding as you could ask for…

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Life is pretty good...

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I say farewell to the Tasman Sea for now, as Bettie steers me inland…

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There are several sets of traffic lights along this section (as well as lots of road works ones). At the permanent ones, I notice they have a push button for cyclists to use, as they may not trip the sensor. I start using this myself and ir seems to work well…

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I see lots of bikes – this is obviously a favourite route…

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I follow this old MGBGT for a while, until he turns towards Christchurch and I keep heading towards Nelson…

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I stop at the Flat Rock Café, where there are already a great selection of classic bikes…

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I park in the car section, as my bike is clearly not clean enough to be seen in this company…

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I find this unusual vehicle…

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…impossibly clean and shiny – not sure I’ve seen one in the flesh before – any guesses?

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The bikes turn out to belong to members of the Nelson Classic Bike Club (I may have got the name wrong). The chairman, Ian, turns up at the same time as me on a Blackbird and we have a natter over lunch – the other guys are nearly finished and disappear as we talk. Since it’s now lunchtime, I decide it’s time for a sandwich…

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Ian tells me that a load of the members of the club meet for lunch every Friday they can manage at the Flat Rock for a chat. I tell him I’ll meet here if I find myself in the area on a Friday…

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I also get details of the artist who creates the papier-mâché animal heads I saw when I was last here. I get the phone number of the artist and will give her a call when I get the chance…

Right – time to get some mileage done. Bettie tells me it’ll be 1730 before I get to the lodge this evening – which is a little later than I like to be travelling, but hey-ho…

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The temperature is rising, so it’s good to get some speed on…

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Bettie takes me on a beautiful ride, past hop fields…

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…then through some great twisty roads through the low hills…

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New Zealand are big on safety road signs…

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…I like these – they have different bikes and different riders, each wearing a T shirt with “Dad”, “Mother” , “Brother” etc on them – the sign’s SEE ME tag line is designed to get motorists to recognise that riders are people…

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Quick bridge pic…

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On Swamp Road, I pass hundreds of metres of fruit bushes, covered in mesh – presumably to protect them form insects….

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Roadside stalls reveal them to be plums and apples…

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I start the long climb up from Takaka to Upper Takaka…

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It’s a series of twists, turns and the occasional switchback which climbs high above the valley I’ve just been riding…

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…and offers some superb views…

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When I eventually reach to top of the pass, the whole of the coastal plain of Golden Bay comes into view…

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Onward!

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It’s a glorious day – I’m drinking regularly and feel the temperature is just about perfect…

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Came across this fence loaded with shoes and boots – no idea why…

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Back down at sea level, it’s a little warmer, but not uncomfortably so…

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…looks like the tide is out…

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At Collingwood I refuel – 255 miles so far today…

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I spot this lovely old split-screen Morris Minor Convertible…

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The mechanic asks if I’d like to see the engine…

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Side-valve – anyone like to guess what year this was built? It's in the garage to get the semaphore indicators fixed... :D

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I get back on the road, heading towards the brilliantly named Farewell Spit…

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After a few miles – and as expected – the road turns to gravel…

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It takes me through miles and miles of wetlands…

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The gravel road has recently been graded and re-gravelled – which is a nightmare, as there are deep troughs of gravel from time to time and no accurate way to predict where they are….

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…the road is also single track – inasmuch as cars just straddle the centre. I have to keep in the left wheel rut and look out for the dust trail of approaching traffic…

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The views are spectacular though…

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Eventually I come to a gate…

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…marked with a restriction on dogs as a result of Sheep Measles, which I’d never heard of…

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I open it and close it behind me, but I’m getting a feeling I’m not heading in the right direction for the hotel any more…

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I’d been unable to find the road the lodge was on, so just put the postal town in Bettie…

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This part of the gravel road hasn’t been graded and is much easier to ride – the views are great…

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…but I’m getting tired and could do with reaching the lodge…

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I wonder what would have caused that on the sand dune?

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I eventually get to the end of Bettie’s track. It’s very pretty, but not where I need to be. I do some more searches and find Snake Creek Road about 13km back the way I came. I ride back up and – sure enough, find the lodge as advertised…

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I turn the engine off, remove my helmet and earplugs and am amazed at the volume of sound being produced by millions of cicadas – it’s continual obtrusive white noise. Sally, the owner, assures me they’re quieter at night…

Sally shows me around and explains where all the nature walks etc are. I tell her I’m really just interested in a shower and a bed at the moment and she understands.

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She then earns my undying gratitude by bringing me a large electric fan…

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Internet access is a little strange – there is a log in the car park – you can get a signal there.

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I park the bike near the log. I log on (I crack myself up...
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) and am pleasantly surprised to find a really quick internet speed. I upload 255 pictures over the next couple of hours, leaving my laptop propped on top of my pannier…

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I retire to my cabin and have a shower that was so good it felt decadent, then changed into fresh clothes and sat in front of the fan drinking iced Sprite…

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I meet my neighbours, Cab and Mark, who live between here and Nelson.

The sliding doors on the lodge have a screen door fitted – it’s a wise precaution – Wetland is a polite name for a swamp and bugs abound.

Since I’m not willing to be a blood donor for whatever nocturnal insects are in the area, I write a rough draft of my journal and will try to get it uploaded tomorrow from a café in the village.

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Very tiring day, but a good one…
 
25th February 2017

I sleep very well – yesterday was a very long day and I was clearly very tired. By the time I’d finished writing the draft of my journal last night, I noticed that the cicadas had fallen silent – as had the rest of the world. Other than the fridge switching on and off during the night, the quiet was total. I fall asleep easily.

I eventually surface at around 0900, shower and dress and stumble around the cabin. I’ve left the sliding door open (screen door closed) all night and it’s pleasantly cool inside, so I stay inside and listen to some podcasts I have on my iPad whilst I wait for the café to open.

The cicadas are at full chat, filling the countryside with their chirping. Apparently this will only last a couple of weeks and then they’ll all die off. Cicadas have the weirdest life cycle – underground for seven years and then living above ground for a couple of weeks during which time they mate and then die…

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I ride the Adv up to the Nugget café just before 1100 and find Mandy, the owner, hard at work. She’s a Californian who has lived here for 35 years, having made her way here via Ireland, London and South Africa.

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Unfortunately the café doesn’t have an internet connection…
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On the plus side, she does have a splendid breakfast and HP Sauce (for some reason, most cafés serve breakfast with ketchup – clearly unacceptable).

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Mandy and I have a chat whilst I’m eating and drinking (I order a large pot of tea – which is delicious). She says “You did order apple juice didn’t you?” with a wicked grin, and brings me a frosted mug of home made cider. It tastes completely innocuous, but has a kick like a mule…

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We spend an hour and a half or so putting the world to rights, during which time only two customers - an elderly couple – come into the café. I think it’s a labour of love for Mandy (who has a part time job in the NZ Local Government), although she may be inundated in high season for all I know.

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It’s a pleasant way to spend time.

I decide to try and post my journal from outside my cabin, where I uploaded my pictures last night, but will need to dig out my sun block first…

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I set up in the shade of a large bush and type - not a bad way to spend a morning...

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25th February 2017 (cont)

After writing up my journal, moving the chair occasionally to allow for the sun's movement, I take a nap in the afternoon. This is apparently OK if you're in your sixties and have had scrumpy for brunch... :D

I decide that a spot of tea is in order, so ride up to the café, which I know closes at 1700, arriving at 1630. Unfortunately Mandy is closing up, as she and her husband are off to a first birthday party for the only child born in the area in the last 40yrs or so (Sally, my landlady, is going too). I tell her it's not a problem.

"Nonsense - what would you like?"

I ask her if she's got anything I can take away.

"I've got some hot pizza" - fantastic...
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"Why don't you eat it here?"

"That'll be great, if you don't mind me joining you"

"No, we're going - but you can lock up after you're finished - here, have some Carrot Cake..."
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I get my wallet out.

"Settle up in the morning - see you for breakfast..."

I eat my homemade pizza and cake - both delicious, then lock up as requested.

What a fantastic part of the world...

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I get back to the cabin to be greeted by Mark and Cab with a cold beer...
 
Hi Mike, great to read of your continuing exploits, fair play to you! Ride safe!!
 
A photograph is worth a thousand words :thumb

Superb ...

:beerjug:
 
The car at Flat Rock cafe is an MGRV8 which is an updated MGB Roadster with the 3.9 Rover V8 in it and some modernising of the body shell.
Looks like you found the Whanganui Inlet at the very top of the West Coast. Not many people venture there but it is absolutely stunning as you have found.
Can I assume from the lack of photos you didnt do the two river crossings that will take to roads end?
I recommend on your way back a side trip to Bainham and see the old store tell Will or Sukita the Wookie from Wellington mentioned you call by.
http://www.langfordstore.co.nz/

Adrian
 
Fantastic.

Another good day then.

That gravel road and the views are to die for.

Looks like Mandy the cafe owner has a soft spot for OAPS.:D

Did I spot a police radar detector on the Ducati nearest the camera (The one with the insulation tape repair on the seat)?
 
Great photos as always, although a few more bridges/dams and less cars would be my preference.

Safe riding
 
where do you upload the masses of photos to ?
 
Looks great Mike. Enjoy every moment.
 
Fantastic Mike always enjoy your reports you have a real knack for it and travel photography. Thank you!:)
 
26th February 2017

I sleep like the dead - this place has fantastic beds and NO noise. If it wasn't for the fridge turning on and off I'd think I'd gone deaf...
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I'm booked into a Quest studio apartment in Nelson tonight - I may stay two nights, as I have a Hotels.com free night available (you get and almost free night every ten bookings or so). I stayed in a Quest apartment in Wellington the night before I caught the ferry to South Island and was most impressed by it. It'll be nice to get back to reliable and available internet and phone signals too (I hate to admit this!)...

I have a long, hot shower (the facilities in the cabin are excellent), then get dressed and pack the bike. I may well return here later in the trip - it's an interesting place to visit and there are a couple of things I'd like to see, which I've not been able to during this visit.

I bump into Mark and Cab as they pack to leave - they are going to go for an explore then have some breakfast at the café, where we'll meet up, all being well.

I say my goodbyes to Sally and thank her, then set off at about 1010 towards the end of the road which I mistakenly took on arrival. I want to see if it's still as pretty when I'm not feeling knackered and dehydrated...
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Well, it's cooler, and with more cloud cover, but still beautiful...

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I take a gentle amble along the gravel...

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...taking in the sights - and killing a little time before breakfast...
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A hundred generations of sheep have left their track marks like contour lines on the hillsides...

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Right - time for brunch...

I arrive at the Nugget café at about 1100 to find Mandy cooking away. She quickly rustles me up a flat white and some nachos - served in a bowl, which adds a frisson of excitement as you get to the last of them...

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She leaves me with some Mexican Mild sauce, and some Tabasco. I like the text on the sauce...

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There is a young Swiss couple having coffee, waiting to meet one set of parents. They are on a six week trip here - they comment that I must have a better boss than them. I suppose I do...
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I notice that the weather is starting to close in to the south and I have no wish to negotiate the 20+km of recently gravelled road in the rain, so I settle my (very reasonable) bill - paying in advance for a couple of coffees for Mark and Cab should they arrive later.

"How will I know who they are?"

"Mark has a '100% New Zealander' tattoo on his shoulder"

"That'll do".

I thank Mandy - meeting characters like her are always the best parts of travelling...
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As I get kitted up by the bike, my glasses are getting misted by a very light rain. I don't even think about kitting up for wet weather as it's too humid. If I get wet, so be it...

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Doesn't look promising, though...

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Actually, the dampness of the light rain has changed the colour of the various types of gravel on the road and this makes it easier to identify the deep drifts that I want to avoid, so it's working to my advantage...

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The tide is in and the ride is completely different from when I arrived on Friday...

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I find I can comfortably keep 30-40 mph up on the road this morning...

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...which is a good deal quicker than I was riding on Friday...

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The misty rain dries up - this will prove to be the last rain I see today...

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Eventually I'm back on tarmac - huzzah!

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I ride through Takaka, an odd little town - seemed to have a very high number of backpackers, neckbeards etc. Not the place to open a shoe shop (unless you only stock flip-flops)...
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The clouds over the Takaka Hill road are looking a bit threatening, but it's a good road (if a little twisty), so I'm not concerned...

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Time for a moody barn shot...

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I pass the fence of shoes and keep at 105kph or so towards the hills...

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Pretty much as I arrive at the foot of the climb, the cloud begins to clear...

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...and I have a good, cloud and rain free ride to the top...

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...and down the other side, where I can see Nelson in the distance, bathed in sunshine...

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After a fairly spirited ride down, Bettie gives me a left turn...

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...towards Mahrahau. I follow this couple on a F650GS over the hill and into the little seaside town...

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The town (which comprises 80% town and 20% speed bumps) is set on a huge sandy bay and there are loads of tractors out on the sand in the bay moving boats and kayaks about.

I've come here for a particular reason, and it seems my pair of travelling companions have the same destination. We both park in the car park and I find it's Revti, who I met on the ferry! His lovely wife Sue is on the pillion...

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We have all come to visit The Fat Tui - which was a recommendation from Mark and Cab. They reckon that these burgers are better than Ferg Burgers - a high bar indeed...

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Revti insists he treat me to a burger, so I try the Bullseye...

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...cooked to perfection by the lively, but a little camera-shy team in the caravan...

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When it arrives it is vast - you need a roll of kitchen towel to clean up whilst eating it...
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It was delicious. Was it better than a Ferg Burger?

Might have to try another one of each to be certain...
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We have a great chat over lunch and eventually get kitted up to move on - many thanks Revti & Sue
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At the last minute I spot this old Indian parked...

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Unfortunately I had close following traffic, so it wasn't possible to stop. A mile or so outside town, a Vincent came the other way - I expect they're meeting up...

I reciprocate my route and soon find myself at the base of the Takaka Hill road, where I left it. It's about an hour or so to Nelson from here, so I'm in no particular hurry...

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I pass a clutch of BMWs refuelling on a ride out in the town of Riwaka...

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...and then follow the coast...

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...towards Nelson - the tide's a couple of hours out...

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This distinguished looking old gent was sunning himself in a winery car park...

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It was immaculate inside and out...

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Any guesses?

I'm soon into Nelson and being steered into the town centre, where the system works perfectly and I pick up my key card to my studio apartment...

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...which is very comfortably appointed...

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...and has the added benefit of a bottle store (off licence) just across the road...
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I log on - and am connected to the world again...

Good day...

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Cheers Mike, you're giving me plenty of ideas for places to visit when I hopefully go, same time next year.:thumb
 
Hi Mike. It was great to meet you at Wetland View. We love your posts and you take such great photos. THANKS heaps for the coffee - we thought it was weird when she asked what the tattoo said!! We're pleased you made it over to Marahau and the Fat Tui - It's a cool place. Enjoy the rest of your adventure - we will be following you with envy now we are back at work!!
 


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