DCT Rear Brake Conversion

The locking knobble on the main lockout cable tie is a very convenient 'push' lever to slide it off the handlebar grip as well....

Obviously this then springs back into it's resting position and nothing interferes with normal brake operation.

I suppose off-road, there is a risk of a branch snagging that cable tie and pulling the brake lever on?

The alternative is to not have it fixed to the brake lever at all, and have it's own securing rubber band (like a womans hair band) attached to the inside of the Storm Hand Guard. So it retracts it out of the way, but allows it to move and slide when needed.

How about two 6" long pieces of velcro? Kept in your pocket or one of your many tactical bags. If you seldom use the handbrake now, you're not likely to in the future so having to faff for 30 seconds to get the two parts out and around the brake lever aren't going to be too much of an issue. I'd not want something as substantial as that cable tie on there all the time in case of snagging, as you've suggested.

Davey B said:

How about two 6" long pieces of velcro? Kept in your pocket or one of your many tactical bags. If you seldom use the handbrake now, you're not likely to in the future so having to faff for 30 seconds to get the two parts out and around the brake lever aren't going to be too much of an issue. I'd not want something as substantial as that cable tie on there all the time in case of snagging, as you've suggested.

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I did think about velcro as I have some. But velcro doesn't stay clean for long off-road.

Trouble is, when you need to lock the bike out with a handbrake off-road, it's usually in a really precarious place (like on hill ascents) where the ground around you is rutted, uneven and perilous. So not hunting through bags and having an immediate lockout is preferred.

But, each application to suit the owner I guess.

I'd want lockout options on both front and rear brakes. .... and off-road I do need to use the handbrake all the time, it's mainly used to hold the bike when you're dismounted opening and closing gates between fields.... and there can be a lot of them all on uneven ground.

I have to say, I do like the idea of the cable ties to be honest. Even the risk of snagging is small, as it's more likely to be a deflection occasionally.

Might try it for a while and see how I get on with it.

The big downside is that it's a two handed operation to work....

More Progress Made Today....

There's a guy on YouTube, Peter Mansbridge, who has done this rear brake conversion. I contacted him and he put me in touch with his Performance Mechanic, Scott at Port Performance.

Here's the video

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Well Scott from Port Performance emailed me today with more information on this build. Details copied below.

I've given him a link to this thread topic as I know he'll be interested in updates, and he may join in with conversation

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

Hi Steve,

This conversion is becoming reasonably popular and believe it or not I am responding to emails about it from all over the world.

The brake line I use is 1250mm or 50inches long.

I route it from the L/H handle bar master cylinder, which I assume you have already purchased, and down underneath the petrol tank, along the frame and to a customised fitting on the rear foot brake master cylinder. Once the tank is removed it is a simple straight forward routing.

The concerns I find when tapping the original master cylinder is as always, once you drill it and tap it, it cannot be returned to its original state. Although these are the same master cylinder that Honda uses on a lot of their vehicles and a reasonably available either new or used, as a mechanic I shiver at the thought of ruining a part beyond repair.

There is a company in the USA called HoHey Designs. A quick google search will provide you with their website. They make a fitting that serves a similar purpose on stunt bikes. I only began making my fittings because the part that HoHey makes is not available to Australian residents. This may well be the case with the UK as well. It’d be worth a look for you though. On their website, under the category of best sellers, you will find the HHD Rear Hand Brake Fitting. You will need the red one.

Warlord EDIT : added website link http://www.hoheydesigns.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1_8&products_id=199
Warlord EDIT : Alternative supplier link http://thesicshop.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=3_58_213_331&products_id=1020

I usually remove the rear brake reservoir completely.

The bleeding of the system once fitting is done at the rear caliper. Be aware that the fluid level will now drop from your handlebar master cylinder.

I replace the park brake lever with a small lever and perch, supplied by a company here in Australia called MCS. Part Number LR2. With another small modification you can make it self-locking. Online stores like MXStore and Rocky Mountain have levers like this in abundance. I have also received feedback that ATV levers or push bike levers will also do the job.

I usually loop out the park brake indicator light, at the inhibitor style switch on the lever. Let’s face it, if you need a light in your dash to tell you that your park brake is on, should you really be riding a 1000cc motorcycle??

Feel free to contact me if you need anything else and if you do manage to finish the project, email me a video. I’m starting to get a good collection from all over the globe, I’d love a UK one, and you would be my first.

Stay in touch and good luck

Scott
Port Performance

I've ordered the spare rear brake cylinder which arrived today...
I've ordered the Billet cylinder hose adapter from SicShop USA today...
I'll order the brake Master Cylinder and bits from Rugged Roads shortly...
Just need a suitable 50 inch hose now...

Looking better by the day.....

Smogbob said:

Looking better by the day.....

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Well.... lets get it fitted first, and then not kill myself using it

Warlord said:

Although I think I'll need something by law, especially when leaving bike on a slope.

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I've had a bit of a look into this and can't find anything that states a motorbike is required to be kept in gear when parked...the only way a non DCT bike would be 'secured' I wouldn't worry about the legal side of it

The billet hose adapter does it come pre-threaded.

DING-DONG said:

The billet hose adapter does it come pre-threaded.

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In the picture it appears not. I've asked them to confirm by email.

If it doesn't come pre-threaded I'll cancel my order and re-order the red one from the other company. I didn't want red.... I wanted black.... which is why I ordered the other one

DING-DONG said:

The billet hose adapter does it come pre-threaded.

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Had an email reply as follows:-

Hello, the fitting is threaded for the brake line and also comes with a banjo bolt and crush washers.

However, your order will require an additional $21 for international shipping. Please pay the invoice if you would like to proceed

BASTARD

... and I've got the joys of Customs and Excise spin the bottle 'Duty' costs....

Watch this video, regarding the Africa Twin foot brake pedal vulnerability....

I've bent one footpeg that many times I've binned it... and now have TWO SPARES in my garage and soft pannier for immediate swapout.

Having the hand lever rear brake means I can eliminate the foot brake vulnerability completely.

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DING-DONG said:

Im about to do the conversion and rather than tap the rear master cylinder for the additional brake line, can anyone recommend an alternative method.

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peepingtom said:

It’s something I want to do too simply for more control but definitely will be keeping the foot brake

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How are you two coming along with your projects on this?

I have all the parts apart from the bush for the rear brake cylinder, I'm going for the one from the states.

DING-DONG said:

I have all the parts apart from the bush for the rear brake cylinder, I'm going for the one from the states.

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Great, me too. Once I'm back off holiday I'll have a look at it all.

Will have to take the Altrider Bars off, the fairings, the petrol tank and seat. Remove the rear park brake lever and cables and rear caliper.

Fit the rear brake kit at the same time fit the Altrider front high fender kit.

Then tidy and clean it all up before rebuild.

Warlord said:

How are you two coming along with your projects on this?

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I’m away and not doing anything at the moment but I’m sure it will happen just not in the immediate future

Warlord said:

... and I've got the joys of Customs and Excise spin the bottle 'Duty' costs....

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Frickin hate Customs charges from USA....

Parcel Force are charging me an extra £ 26.88 to release the item for delivery.

Anyways, one more step closer to the perfect HAT DCT

Should be delivered tomorrow.