DCT Rear Brake Conversion

So that tiny brake caliper billet part cost me...

£ 55.75 for the actual part and packaging
£ 17.35 for International Shipping
£ 26.88 for Import duty and release fee

TOTAL : £ 99.98 :blast

:monkeypiz:surrender:pissl
 
I did have a nightmare thought the other day.....

To get the correct routing for the rear brake cable, I need to take the petrol tank off, or at least move it.

To move the petrol tank I need to remove the body panels.

To move the body panels I need to remove the Altrider Crash Bars, which have been bashed inwards, so clearance will be an issue and brackets might need realigning.

To remove the Crash Bars, I'm pretty sure I need to remove the exhaust headers for bolt access.

To remove the exhaust headers I need to remove the bottom skid plate, and Camel Adv Foot peg bracket (as they are all connected with similar bolts).

Oh... crap... :blast:eek::confused::hide
 
Frickin hate Customs charges from USA.... :(

Parcel Force are charging me an extra £ 26.88 to release the item for delivery. :(

Anyways, one more step closer to the perfect HAT DCT :cool:

Should be delivered tomorrow.

Get used to it. Customs clearance fees are the future for everything bought from the EU as well.
 
I came across an AT DCT with a bar mount rear brake conversion recently (bought a single piece seat of owner for my ATAS). The chap had used a CB1300 clutch master cylinder plumped into the ABS pumps as a replacement for the foot rear brake M/C (all removed) , he'd also modified the clutch M/C and lever to use a sprung plunger arrangement to act as a park brake lock. All very neat and lever pressure felt good. when I had a quick squeeze. He claimed the original rear brake calliper worked well with the CB clutch M/C as a combo. As a further tidy up he replaced the DCT rear calliper mount with a AT manual version and removed all the cable park brake bits as no longer needed.
 
Started dismantling the bike this evening... with a glass of whisky :D

Wife thinks I'm nuts, quite happily sat on my stool in the garage tidying up bolt threads with my tap and die set....

Something very relaxing about mechanical stuff, even in its most simplistic form...
 
I've weighed the DCT Rear Parking Brake kit and its 1.3kg, so that's a tiny bit of weight saved.

I'll be removing the DCT rear brake caliper bracket and replacing it with a Manual caliper bracket, which should tidy it up more and weight less.
 

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Ok, this rear brake kit is pretty much fitted now.

Points to note:

a) You do not need to remove the rear master cylinder to fit the billet adapter. It can be fitted in situ.

b) The 50 inch brake line is literally only just long enough. I'd have been more comfortable using a 53 inch or 55 inch cable. But it did fit with very careful routing and 90 degree banjo's each end.

c) You could probably get away with not having to remove the petrol tank to route the new rear brake line hose. But you may need to remove the petrol tank to remove the parking brake cable.

I'll get some pictures posted once I've put it all back together again. Fitting new air filters while its in bits and two new tyres.
 
Well done :clap all points noted I bet your looking forward to a test ride :green gri

Yeah, I am.

But very tired today. Bleeding the back braided hose, master cylinder and rear brake caliper was a bastard. But got it done.

BLEEDING NOTE:


After routing the new braided brake line through the bike, you should now have it loose at both ends. The billet machined alloy special part should be fitted and loctite allowed to cure overnight....

So.... when you're ready :D .....

a) Bolt the new brake line banjo to the hand lever reservoir (with two new washers) and tighten it fully to 34nm. Leave it unbolted or very loose at the other end (side connection of the rear master cylinder) as you'll need to see fluid exiting before you tighten it up.

b) Fill the brake reservoir with brake fluid and pump the lever a few times until fluid starts to appear through the hose at the other end. Fluid will start dripping out. Now tighten this end up with two new washers (there are no torque recommendations for this banjo bolt on the billet machined alloy special part. So I didn't go mad, just about 20nm so it was a snug fit). This is referred to as the 'In' connector to the rear master cylinder.

i) Make sure the new billet machined alloy special part is fitted tight into the rear master cylinder. There's a little Allen screw holding it into the rear master cylinder.... Make sure this is tight, using a standard Allen Key.

TOP UP THE BRAKE FLUID RESERVOIR WITH BRAKE FLUID

Then leave this bolt alone.... don't mess with it again :D

c) Now unbolt the rear master cylinder top oil bolt (this is referred to as the 'Out' connector). This bolt will be your banjo bleed point.

i) Fit new washers here before you start
ii) screw it back into the rear master cylinder with new washers and tighten to create a seal, but not fully tighten. It needs to be enough to stop it leaking, but easy to undo to let the air out.

d) Now pump the FOOT BRAKE lever 5 times and on the 5th time hold it down. Use a spanner on the 'Out' Connector and loosen it briefly to let the air out. Nip it closed again.

i) CHECK TO SEE IF YOU NEED TO TOP UP THE BRAKE FLUID RESERVOIR WITH BRAKE FLUID
ii) Now repeat this step until the foot brake lever shows strong resistance.

e) Now pump the HAND BRAKE lever 5 times and on the 5th time hold it in. Use a spanner on the 'Out' Connector and loosen it briefly to let the air out. Nip it closed again.

i) CHECK TO SEE IF YOU NEED TO TOP UP THE BRAKE FLUID RESERVOIR WITH BRAKE FLUID
ii) Now repeat this step until the hand brake lever shows strong resistance.

f) Once this has been done, and you are satisfied both foot brake and hand brake are firm... tighten the oil bolt 'Out' Connector to 34nm

g) Now you bleed the rear caliper. Get some pipe tube and connect it to the caliper bleed nipple. Now pump the foot brake lever 5 times and on the 5th time hold it down. Use a spanner on the caliper bleed nipple and open it briefly to let the fluid out (fluid may be mixed with air bubbles). Nip it closed again. Now repeat this step until all the air is out of the bleed pipe tube and nip it closed to finish.

CHECK TO SEE IF YOU NEED TO TOP UP THE BRAKE FLUID RESERVOIR WITH BRAKE FLUID

h) Now you are finished. Put the lid back on the hand brake reservoir.
 
Dirty Air Filter

Dirty Airfilter (there are two, one on each side).... Honda want £40 +VAT for the kit. Bought new ones off eBay (Genuine Honda) for £20 delivered for two filters kit.

May as well change these while all the panels and crash bars are off

These filters are 2 years old with 4,300 miles on the clock.
 

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Rear Brake Carrier

Here's a DCT rear brake carrier (the larger one) and the standard manual rear brake carrier from the Africa Twin.

As I've removed the Parking Brake completely, this DCT rear brake carrier is redundant.... and the bottom lugs will just get broken off on rocks and ramblers.

So I decided to buy a second hand one off eBay for £45 (which also came with caliper and pads). Idea being I can separate the rear caliper and sell it back on eBay for most of my money back.

The manual version (the smaller one) should weigh slightly less as well.
 

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The Billet Machined Alloy Special part

The billet machined alloy special part fitted to the rear master cylinder.... with new HEL braided brake hose
 

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Africa Twin on Operating Table

Africa Twin balanced precariously on the operating table, while both wheels were off getting new tyres fitted.

It's a really well balanced bike and I was not working on it while in this stage

:eek::eek::eek::eek::eek::eek:
 

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Now the Africa Twin has THREE brake levers

Left Front Lever = Rear Brakes
Right Front Lever = Front Brakes
Right Rear Foot Lever = Rear Brakes

:bow
 

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So now looking at the bike.

The DCT parking brake has gone
The Left handlebar has a 'clutch lever' lookalike
The Rear Caliper Hanger looks like the manual version.

It'll confuse people looking at it for sure :nenau:augie:comfort
 
Is it safe to assume that you don’t intend giving this bike back at the end of the PCP term ? :D

Good thread by the way :thumb2

Cheers :thumb2

:D ... I dread to think what it'll look like in another 12 months time when it's due for final payment... it'll be in a wheelbarrow I think :green gri

I've got the money put aside to pay it off, but just waiting for the final bill to come through in 12 months.

Got lots planned with it for this year... 4 days training at Sweet Lamb Adventure Bike Academy using this bike, then as much trails practice as I can get.

So no doubt both me and it will be on it's arse again shortly.
 
So a 53" brake line should route without the need to take the tank off ? Or would you use a longer line.
 


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