Fuel strip to float conversion complete guide.

I try to clarify my question the best I can:

I wonder if there are 2010 GSA with ESA that cannot be converted to float according to the instructions in this thread as these do not have the option to deactivate the inductive fuel sensor?

Edit:
I was just out looking in all the modules with my Motoscan (incl. Instrument Cluster, KOMBI) but unfortunately can't find the coding for Inductive_fuel_sensor.

Maybe I haven't understood something important here?

-18c outside and almost 1m snow so i have plenty off time to solve this...
 
your English looks fine...

one frequent member (although he's not commented in this thread for a long time) kept saying it was ZFE high bikes that couldn't be converted.

However NO owner with a ZFE basic has ever been able to swap (and indeed I've tried a lot). So the point you raise today is certainly interesting. If you are both correct, and we have some ZFE HIGH Twin socket multiplug bikes (with major plugs J1 and J2) missing the correct coding choices that would be an interesting difference. I can't see a reason why you would end up in that position - and no good reason the module couldn't be flashed with the appropriate software to get you there.

Maybe they moved all to the strip and flashed a batch with lower spec software rather than the full coding choices a twin socket bike can have.
Ideas - go get the latest i-level update and keep your fingers crossed they add the bit missing software and you get the choice afterwards. An i-level update is a good idea regardless - its only 30 mins work)

We have heard SOME dubious info about being unable to do the strip to float mod on R1200RTs... Which begs the question does your market get CRUISE CONTROL on a GS ? The Twin socket ZFE certainly pushed LOTS of cruise control wiring at the J2 socket and I did wonder if they used up all the input and outputs on the higher spec ZFE High circuit board running the cruise option, leaving nothing to do the Float inputs. But then I believe a number claim on the K1300GTs you can swap to the float and they have lots more toys with cruise, an electric screen and heated seat switching
 
Hello again and thanks for your reply.

Unfortunately, I do not know if cruise control is available as an option on the Swedish market. I know my bike doesn't have it and I haven't actually heard of any hexhead/TC GS/GSA having it.

Updating the software on my bike might be a good idea, but it's at least 300km to the nearest dealer (maybe +1000km to the first competent one) and I usually try to solve everything myself as far as possible. As a last resort, I might consider it but it's a long way away, maybe an eternity.

I have ordered a float tank sensor and will install it with correctly connected cables and Thermocuples FLS 08 coded to potentiometer We will see how my bike reacts to it.
Have a nice evening!
 
are you aware late last year they made available an upgraded fuel strip (the old rubbish was around for many years) if you can't code both elements the float will not help you -

if u want to try add wires don't swap them over

beta users have a later version of v1.83 motoscan already - new release out soon - thinking out loud I did think the second option went walkabout on my version of motoscan - he's got a bit strange and doesn't like owners to do non standard stuff... maybe he hid it on purpose !!!

if 1000km to get on dealer kit you might want to invest in a hooky dealer tool - then you can flash the bike yourself - the ONLY issue is the device to juggle the noise round the canbus is quite pricey and must be a good one everything else is simple as is the software, nearly every man and their dog has a copy of BM dealer tools

interesting this might be suitable to attack the bike much of the car and bike dealer stuff is the same the files are easy to come by (of course need to do home work and you can easily stop it from running / destroy it when u mess it up) https://www.obd2shop.co.uk/wholesale/vxdiag-vcx-se-bmw-with-500g-hdd.html
 
It really looks like some ZFE do not have the Inductive-Fuel_sensor (deactivate) option despite having ESA.
And my bike is one of these.
It was a good tip to invest in a "hooky dealer tool", maybe I have to do that eventually.

What I can do now, change the Thermocouple FLS 08 to potentiometer just turns off the heating to my fuel strip, correct?

Updating software in my R1200GSA 2010 might solve this (never updated, I know the first owner), has anyone done an update and after that found the Inductive_fuel_sensor during coding?

Post #161 is a bit confusing to me. Same problem with the coding but he seems to have gotten it working pretty well anyway. Quote: "When I did the modification, at first, I couldn´t find in the motoscan the "inductive fuel sensor" configuration, so I only changed to potentiometer the thermocouples FLS08. Testing the fuel sensor out of the tank, I check that it works fine, but never appears the triangle fuel alarm when the sensor is in the lowest position".
Strange.

I have decided to somehow make my bike work with a float, the only question is how.
Do I need a new ZFE or can I update the one I have?
Do I need to update my Motoscan app?(purchased 3 months ago)
Should I give up and instead buy a device that can convert my signal so that my ZFE understands the float signal without new coding?
If so, which conversion box should I buy that works for my bike?

No weather for riding today. I'm going to work in an hour and it's -22C so I'll take the car, my bike will have to rest for almost two more months.

Best regards
 
in the picture below this shows the setting you can't find - I am many years on struggling to recollect if I ever saw this - I thought I used to in motoscan v1.7 but it went missing in 1.81 or later. But I can't validate that thinking.

Today on my bike with a single socket "ZFE Basic High" running current software release for my era bike.

I can not find the second setting. I just looked I'm sure I used to find two things to try and haven't for more than a year.
The clue as to which module has this "other" setting is the "TCPL read injected fuel" in the photo... on my bike this too is in the ZFE coding choices... its further down the list and indeed on 1.83 is the last option and thus I can't see the setting you are missing either

If my bike with a twin Soscket ZFE High and the old strip was dead I would :

1) install the beta version of motoscan and see if that helps find a setting he hid on the std tool (talks about beta on playstore info pages) - he is good at replying to queries if you mail log files from within the App and ask questions
2) if that doesn't get you there - I would first update the bikes software and see if the option turns up

having exhausted the choices at this stage I would likely install the new part number strip - it is so much more accurate than the add on box

Note

fun converting the signals using probeemer box - running a relay to power the box and making a loom to connect to the Aux socket so the canbus wakes the add on box reliably is more effort than refitting a strip. The combined cost of a float and the probeemer box is now more than the cost of the later strip. (And you need to buy a relay and the wires and connectors)
The box differers between certain models and some are self powered.
You can relocate the float on small tank bikes to the filler neck (see OEM parts for 2010 bikes) rather than mount to the pump body which was the original location - as the float mounted on the filler neck is less inaccurate when leant over as the main bulk of fuel is a more consistent level at this part of the fuel tank.
Of course have to re-pin the loom and make the bike non standard, or add two extra wires...
I have one of these https://www.proebeemer.nl/

picture from first post

97b26e97608e834dd9255954faa7ed95.jpg
 
Hi again botus and thanks for all the tips.
The reason I've decided to try and convert my motorcycle's fuel sender to a float is a bit complicated.
The previous owner (first owner) has had a lot of problems with the fuel strip and had for many years tried to get his dealer to do this modification. He has replaced a couple of fuel strips and was annoyed by this problem. According to BMW it is impossible to install a float which I do not agree with, (hope I am right!) So I have told the previous owner that I will install a float and it will work. Right now, my fuel strip is actually working, but even so, I'm going to replace it with a float and not the new updated fuel strip. Hope you understand why.
Best regards from Sweden
 
nice - now I get the drive to make it work - FYI I see you like to type (still good for those english skills)

yes the strips caused some owners many years of pain (mine lasted 14 years) but life is miserable without it
I ordered the float at something like £110 vs £250 for the strip - believing any bike could be converted and before knowing the float on the pump on small tank bikes goes silly at times.
The side stand switch seems to be either ALL GSA models (large tank Adventure versions) or at least a batch that did the float from the factory circa 2009 to 2010. For me the name of the option in the photo above suggests it, and now I have the float on the pump I can see the need to ignore float readings when the engine is running and the side stand is down. This side stand switch coding is NOT in the ZFE Basic singe socket bikes either. As is, if left for 2 mins idling on the side stand it can throw a full tank when its on a 1/3rd full. But in some weird space cadet madness it can quickly find its feet again when you ride off and seems to keep the trip stuff working OK. But its disconcerting.

The madness of removing the strip is pathetic - in the end I had to get my arm in the tank to release the end on the filler neck and nearly couldn't get my arm out again - the panic / fear of fire brigade and 3hrs of you life gone, is enough to make me question trying to fit the float on the filler neck. I guess for school boy sized people no issue - but for grown ups its a dangerous risk. Or another hour wasted unbolting the filler neck to get leaks and breather pipes mangled up

see part 10, that here comes with the filler neck clip for 20ltr tank bikes that came with the float - NOT sure if it would go on early bikes like me ?

https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sh...25-BMW-R_1200_GS_10_0450,0460_&diagId=16_0783

vs the std fitting on a GSA with the side stand switch software and a 33ltr tanks

https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sh...W-R_1200_GS_Adve_10_0470,0480_&diagId=16_0823

drop back to 2008 small tank ones to find just the strip fitment

as far as I know the physical float is identical - my 2007 small tank bike had a recall fuel pump circa 2015 and it has the bits for the adventure float to clip on to - but you get an extra plastic filler neck clip on the top link
 
A small update on how it looks in the MotoScan app.
This is my motorcycle, a 2010 R1200GSA with original fitted fuel strip:

https://postimg.cc/XrvJKrc8

https://i.postimg.cc/ZYgW1j5f/Screenshot-20230307-185524-Moto-Scan-3099.jpg

This is how it looks in a 2012 R1200GS that a good friend owns:

https://postimg.cc/HcPDgL7p

https://postimg.cc/230kTzc8

Surely they look a bit like each other?
Could it be that the 2010 has a ZFE that resembles the newer ones (2011-13) and none of these have the Inductive fuel sensor coding option? Interesting.
 
I fitted a float a while ago and tried Probeemers unit, wasn't accurate for me. One minute full then half then 3/4 with ranges of over 500 miles. I decided to repin it as have the twin socket high ZFE, result was much the same as the convertor.

Thought I'd investigate it once more before I go back to the strip system as it's been upgraded.

When I fitted the float it wouldn't go all the way down as the transfer fuel hose sat under it so I moved the hose and assumed all was OK. I borrowed a cheap phone boroscope camera off my neighbour recently just to see if I could get an idea of what's going on in there. I hooked a wire around the float and lifted it up and with the camera noticed it was hitting the underside of the transfer hose. I've now used cable ties to hang the pipe from the original strip bracket, did just try hooking it over and letting it rest but this interfered with the fuel cut off pendulum to stop fuel leaking out the breathers should the bike end up on it's side. With the ignition on on the centre stand when I lift the float the gauge goes to full within 10 or so seconds, drop it to the bottom and it goes to empty fairly quickly and the same happened when roughly half way.

When I repinned it I had the inductive fuel sensor option and changed the strip setting to potentiometer. Guess I need to try it again now the float has full range.

Did read a bit in here earlier about a sidestand fls setting and something about freeze? I guess that's activated or deactivated. What exactly is the fls sidestand setting for, what does it do does anyone know?
 
Did read a bit in here earlier about a sidestand fls setting and something about freeze? I guess that's activated or deactivated. What exactly is the fls sidestand setting for, what does it do does anyone know?

on the adventure it fits on the pump... when riding the level will be one place, then when you park on the side stand the level where the float sits flies up 70 to 90mm giving gibberish readings... but (if in that condition) the bike knows the key is on and the side-stand is down - it would take nothing to say remember the tank reading u saw before the side stand went down... then when you jump back on the bike (obviously all this when the keys on) it only re checks the fuel level once the side stand is up....

with a strip it knows the level from resistance info vs heat loss - with the S bend meaning the strips reading the level about right (for whatever level its at) even on the side stand (much like the later idea to mount a float in the right place on small tank bikes).

the float has to find full and empty before the dash display knows whats happening - until its seen the full stroke between real full and the real empty a few times, it can't produce a valid range or try for a linear drop - my range is just as accurate as the strip - end to end - but in the middle it can go quite odd then 5 mins later jumps back to where it was and the things linearity is really a bit naff - slow to show change from brimmed, 230 to 180 little movement - goes normal then with 90 miles left drops to 30 then come back up to 70 and runs down to 20 quite normally

its the tank shape .... the strip can be calibrated in software for any level is sees is anywhere on a curve... but the float says loads of fuel, loads of fuel, loads of fuel - wtf - ok that makes sense - holy crap - ok that makes sense

move the float out of the fuel pump area and on to the filler neck and I guess the idea is the float falls through its range in a more linear manner?
 
So it should be activated so it remembers the level then when it's placed on the sidestand? I remember the good old days of a reserve tap and 20 miles to find fuel!!
 
So it should be activated so it remembers the level then when it's placed on the sidestand? I remember the good old days of a reserve tap and 20 miles to find fuel!!

no its just ALWAYS going to be be incorrect with tank the shape it is, and or exacerbated with the incorrect float position on small tank bikes...

the float can ONLY send linear drop info (whereas the strip bend via its S curve and software does something a bit different), so, small tank bikes that don't have the twin socket ZFE alternate inputs and logic, there is no other linear signal to non linear tank level conversion happening to suit the float's belief of what isn't really isn't going on


:aidan
Don't forget the bike through use gets to understand what Full and Empty is over time and constantly fights itself to hone the perfect Range from Full to Empty ... ( I guess that's why they used a Strip its much easier to get it stable regardless - and when you get your head around the bits coming up, why the strip is an S shape from the filler neck)

When converting it to a Float sensor with the bike empty, the Float should be at the bottom - At start up inside the ZFE this creates the New Empty signal for the bike to remember forever (in a normal world), but don't forget this is BMW hardware and software and they never knew what they were doing to start with - in reality the Float might really be just hanging on the breather pipe. But its still an Empty signal today as far as the ZFE knows.

Then I go and fill the bike half full. Now with the bike running and level, this top up becomes the highest reading the bike has ever seen (via this Float) so it now reads Full Up. I ride off and do 50 miles using a bit, then I decide I have a longer trip, so stop and fill to 3/4 full and this is now magically the New Full. My Range is wondering how life works....

But Empty is still going to be Empty so its not really going to let you down... but you won't believe that as its readings have been rather odd up to now. And the Range is currently somewhat all over the place

Now the fun, except Empty may not be really have been Empty. If when it was fitted you got this slight hang on the breather hose (that are so stupidly fitted in the tank), the bike may have believed that was the lowest it could ever have. But as I run towards Empty and the gauge starts heading for Empty, with the fuel sloshing about (proving a lubricant) and with the socking roads (jarring everything) the float slips past the breather hose and creates a new Empty reading in the ZFE. So my range can leap a up a bit as the bike suddenly gauges there's more in there than it had previous believed.

And as far as you dare go each trip, the braver you go becomes the new Empty each time.... Unless it really had a real Empty signal stored when you fitted things correctly. e.g. to a tank with a smidge of fuel to get a valid Empty value where the tank pump pick up was still drawing something when the bike was upright - and it didn't hang on the breather hose that first time !!!

All this silliness goes on and on, then one day you absolutely brim it on the centre stand (fighting the pump nozzle and 3 minutes of topping up through the bubbles long after the 5 normal pump clicks you usually stop at have past) and ride one mile home. That just became the new Full all over again. Except its not - as when you idled on the side stand unlocking the garage to park up, the float gets rammed in the corner of the tank higher than ever before and another New Full signal is set up....
 
Update regarding my conversion to float.
As I said, the software in my motorcycle lacks coding for "INDUCTIVE FUEL SENSOR", but it doesn't seem to matter in my case.
I just changed "Thermo Coupler FLS 08" to "Potentiometer", swop the pins in the ZFE and my new float sensor worked immediately.
However, I had to recalibrate the sensor so that the float would give the correct values ​​when the tank is empty or full.
I had to angle the arm and also twist it. Now I have 88ohm with empty tank and 4ohm with full which seems to be correct. The float also comes free from the transfer hose which it didn't do at first.
Will come back in a month when I've driven the bike, it's -7 and a meter of snow here.
Best regards from Sweden!

https://postimg.cc/KKWZ9D0n

It had 73 ohm at empty:

https://postimg.cc/zycZ5XTN

Had to twist it:

https://postimg.cc/23D5g2zw

And bend it:

https://postimg.cc/061grXXX
 
Good to hear you are succeeding.
The float sensor is a 0 to 100 ohm potentiometer as you say .
Have in the past fitted aftermarket 0-100 ohm float assembly sold for kit cars as they are cheap and plentiful. Just need to make the bracketry.
Had the same problem with arm travel, I think that is why when they went back to float for 2010 to 2012 bikes they mounted it on the filler neck.
At the end of the day as long as you get most of the range and reset the trip. :thumb
 
Update regarding my conversion to float.
As I said, the software in my motorcycle lacks coding for "INDUCTIVE FUEL SENSOR", but it doesn't seem to matter in my case.
I just changed "Thermo Coupler FLS 08" to "Potentiometer", swop the pins in the ZFE and my new float sensor worked immediately.

Best regards from Sweden!

is "New FLS algorithm" the old motoscan wording for "inductive fuel sensor" ?

you get the sidestand switch - which mean you have the ZFE High - I'll go check - not sure I have "New FLS algorithm" in my ZFE basic
 
I didn't touch the coding "New FLS algorithm", I don't know what it does and as I said it wasn't needed because my ZFE High worked with float when I recoded "Thermo Coupler FLS 08" to "Potentiometer"
 
Quote Mistacat " The float sensor is a 0 to 100 ohm potentiometer as you say"


my float sensor had a resistance of 3.7 ohms in the maximum raised (in the free) position and 89 ohms in the maximum lowered position. After adjustment, I got about 4 ohms when the tank is full and about 88 ohms when the tank is empty. it then did not touch the transfer hose and runs freely without grabbing the sides of the tank
 
I didn't touch the coding "New FLS algorithm", I don't know what it does and as I said it wasn't needed because my ZFE High worked with float when I recoded "Thermo Coupler FLS 08" to "Potentiometer"

sure - but I can't find this on non ZFE bikes "New FLS algorithm" so it could be the old inductive bit with a new name - it does say in post one inductive. needs to be deactivated
 


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