Fuel strip to float conversion complete guide.

I have seen
a Basic
a Basic low
a Basic high
never seen anything other than a High version of a High...

if you can get a reading, its operational - if the reading is rubbish its the float position... later small tank bikes moved it to the filler neck (but not seen where it points to) - I guess the idea is to reduce the discrepancy between leant over vs upright readings....

the GSA has a setting to disable the readings when the side stand is down... the small tank bikes don't get that - my alternate float solution (as I have BOTH sets of wires but NOTHING to turn on in my Basic High) is the probeemer box - but if I park on the side stand with >15 litres in there it goes mad and throws the broken strip errors - then when upright gets over itself all over again within 200 yards - also takes 70+ miles to drop a notch, in fact next change is 3 bars gone, with 120 miles in from a full tank drops to nearly empty for 25 miles and comes back up to 70 to go ...and then works perfectly to empty - its just rubbish compared to a real strip

the Argentinian aftermarket strip is the correct way to go for small tank bikes
Fuel Sensor Tech shop

@MWH - if it says 480 then you have a GSA ? - If so did you turn on the second feature - igore side stand readings ?
 
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Yep Botus, it's a GSA. I did the potentiometer code and the inductive fuel sensor code. Is there another?

Seems I've asked this before and forgotten, or didn't understand the answer which is more likely. In your post 154 it has freeze fls by sidestand , should it be activated or deactivated?
 
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activated - I believe - as in don't update the fuel gauge readings if the side stand is down - its only (as far as I know) in the ZFE High module, certainly none of what you want are there on my ZFE Basic High
 
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Cheers. Just been down and checked it all.. again. Has potentiometer, inductive deactivated, and freeze sidestand activated. Guess my bike doesn't like me. Tempted to go back to strip with the upgraded one but not sure I can be bothered to repin the ecu connectors back.
 
thats exactly why I added the extra wires - re pinning is stupid - just imagine when BM offers a free strip other recall fun - then refuse to work on a bike that messed up
 
you'd be one o

you'd be one of two saying this works -

maybe the Basic LOW works - Basic HIGH doesn't

I guess you don't have TMPS? how about ABS?

rather than make one decent circuit board and saving 10 million - by not designing, testing, writing training documentation, adding flexibility for each version of software tools, software updates, fulfilling a complex supply chain to make sure the correct bike got the correct module, maintaining parts lists, and asking the supplier to make four units - the MORONS could have made one like a grown up
Yep don't have abs I bought a used High unit from ebay just in case i needed it. I will have a go at fitting the High unit and re-coding it just to see what happens
 
Yep don't have abs I bought a used High unit from ebay just in case i needed it. I will have a go at fitting the High unit and re-coding it just to see what happens
that'll be an interesting attempt

lots of wires need re-pinning - it wasn't as logical as all bikes us the j1 socket and extra are added to j2 - they mix and match everything

and the VO is another piece of the jigsaw - which toys are turned on and allowed to operate around the canbus is hidden it seems in three modules -
cluster, engine and zfe each carry a version of what toys the bike has fitted - and at present no one makes a third party tool I'm aware of that'll let you write this
 


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