Fuel strip to float conversion complete guide.

Hello at all from Spain. I have discover this page because after change my fuel strip for a float sensor in my r1200GSA 2010 with ESA (following the spanish video of youtube), it doesn´t work fine. Reading all of this mesages, I have discovered that some people have the same problem that me.

When I did the modification, at first, I couldn´t find in the motoscan the "inductive fuel sensor" configuration, so I only changed to potentiometer the thermocouples FLS08. Testing the fuel sensor out of the tank, I check that it works fine, but never appears the triangle fuel alarm when the sensor is in the lowest position. In my first ride, after the modification, I checked that the fuel level indication in the screen works not good, at the begining it´s ok (in 120-180 km two lines falls), then blocks at 3 lines until 480 km and finally, it falls very quickly to one line. I could ride 520 km without refuel.

For me, this is not ok. I have checked other parametres in motoscan like "New FLS algorithm", I changed this from desactivated to activated, and all time appears the tank empty and the fuel alarm activated intenpendent of the position of the fuel sensor.

Someone knows what is the function of this parameter?

Yesterday, during a short ride, I change some times this parametrer and the and now the level sensor doesn´t work fine. The tank is full and the level indicator is only with two lines.

Some idea?

What is the best way to codify this parametres? Full tank? Side stand out or in? Sensor conected or disconected?

P.D. Sorry for my english
 
Someone knows what is the function of this parameter? ("New FLS algorithm")
I asked Wladimir Gurskji (programmer of MotoScan) for this parameter, and he told me NOT TO TOUCH this item; only BMW-Developers would know what it is good for and how to change or apply it.
But I doubt that he would programm in his App the ability to change a function he doesn´t understand.

Maybe the ZFE learns a new curve to transcribe the signal from float to display, but in my opinion it needs more information to dreate that curve and how to tell her???
At least full and empty points must be known.

What is the best way to codify this parametres? Side stand out or in?
If your sidestand is out and you have not changed the sidestand-parameter from "freeze" to "not-freeze" your ZFE/display will not react.

Greetings Frankie
 
There is a lot of hysteresis (time delay) built into the fuel indication on these bikes which is obviously to prevent the level indication from rapidly changing and bouncing around. After a fill up, my fuel strip takes a few minutes to learn the new level and update the display.

I would suspect the same operation for a float based level system, perhaps it needs some time to learn the high/low values before it can display the level in the instrument cluster.
 
When I did the modification, at first, I couldn´t find in the motoscan the "inductive fuel sensor" configuration, so I only changed to potentiometer the thermocouples FLS08. Testing the fuel sensor out of the tank, I check that it works fine, but never appears the triangle fuel alarm when the sensor is in the lowest position. In my first ride, after the modification, I checked that the fuel level indication in the screen works not good, at the begining it´s ok (in 120-180 km two lines falls), then blocks at 3 lines until 480 km and finally, it falls very quickly to one line. I could ride 520 km without refuel.

For me, this is not ok. I have checked other parametres in motoscan like "New FLS algorithm", I changed this from desactivated to activated, and all time appears the tank empty and the fuel alarm activated intenpendent of the position of the fuel sensor.

Someone knows what is the function of this parameter?

Yesterday, during a short ride, I change some times this parametrer and the and now the level sensor doesn´t work fine. The tank is full and the level indicator is only with two lines.

Some idea?

What is the best way to codify this parametres? Full tank? Side stand out or in? Sensor conected or disconected?


if you have really thrown the bike in a tail spin - it shouldn't be world ending

they can just flash the bike with an i-level update for 30 mins labour charge at any main dealer and it should be all back to normal and or better with later software (depending upon when / if its ever been updated)

you should then still have the tank fault but with the twin socket ZFE you can just start again and be more patient waiting for it to come to life.

Its also a good example why I say never re pin - when doing the mod - clear the error from the broken strip - code the two changes to the new float sensor - then rip the old broken strip sensor apart to have the correct plug and wires to add - so you have either set of pins linked to the socket on the ZFE

rather cute blue multiplug would then be the new float sensor input and the black multiplug would remain the original designed to fail heated strip input
 
Hello, much appreciated for all the info after reading thru these 11 pages… I have a 2007 gs with a basic zfe and on board computer. Have an order in for the float control 2 thru proebeemer. The question I do have is for the correct float… the part number given is for an adventure (Genuine BMW K25 0480 Lever Sensor 16148554065) which clips into the fuel pump. I also have a 2010 gs with a float that hangs from the filler neck (16148554064) does the adventure float clip into the vent hanger on the filler neck of an ‘07? Or will I need the later float from the ‘10? I remember reading somewhere one of them clip onto the same rail as the fuel strip it is replacing…. Many thanks for the direction and help! 🙏🤙
 
Nice Thread! . . . But I have a quick question . . .

I have a 2009 R1200GS (not GSA) with yet another failed fuel strip. :(

Will this float replacement fix work on a 2009 GS?

Is a particular float required or will the same one work for both GS and GSA?

The part number I've seen used is: 16148554065

I'm still waiting on the adapter cable, but once I have it I'll check some things regarding ZFE type/version, etc. Bike was built for the Canadian market and has ESA. I have a GS911, so maybe that will give me some information. In the meantime if anyone can confirm they've done this mod successfully on a 2009 GS with ESA, that would be helpful.
 
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its the logic inside the ZFE you need - so its not GS or GSA specific but whether its got ESA as that gives the right box of tricks... go with a Motoscan device and search out the two settings you need to code if its got BOTH I think it will work
 
its the logic inside the ZFE you need - so its not GS or GSA specific but whether its got ESA as that gives the right box of tricks... go with a Motoscan device and search out the two settings you need to code if its got BOTH I think it will work

Thanks, Botus. I'll check those two settings once the adapter cable arrives (10-pin to 16-pin). I already have the OBDLink MX+ and the Motoscan app.

But I was also wondering about the physical aspects of the float mechanism itself, whether it would fit a GS tank if it was designed for a GSA tank?

Also whether that part number for the float mechanism is correct.

:beerjug:
 
its either here or another recent thread

the same float can attach to a bracket that fits on the filler neck and allows the float to move to a different location in the tank


drawings for the
K25 (R 1200 GS) R 1200 GS 08 (0303,0313) shows the strip
K25 (R 1200 GS) R 1200 GS 10 (0450,0460) which I think are the last twin cam models show the float

https://www.realoem.com/bmw/en/show...25-BMW-R_1200_GS_10_0450,0460_&diagId=16_0783
 
its either here or another recent thread

the same float can attach to a bracket that fits on the filler neck and allows the float to move to a different location in the tank


drawings for the
K25 (R 1200 GS) R 1200 GS 08 (0303,0313) shows the strip
K25 (R 1200 GS) R 1200 GS 10 (0450,0460) which I think are the last twin cam models show the float

https://www.realoem.com/bmw/en/show...25-BMW-R_1200_GS_10_0450,0460_&diagId=16_0783

Thanks! This is very helpful. I take it that the GS uses a slightly different version with almost the same part number but a "4" at the end instead of "5"? . . . looks like it just clips to something rather than the other version which looks like it bolts to something.

Adapter cable arrived today and I confirmed I do have the ZFE HIGH version and both of the Thermo Coupler FLS 08 and Inductive Fuel Sensor settings exist. :thumb2
 
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@ botus: I've been trying to find the information about "not re-pinning and adding two new wires", but it seems to be somewhat buried in the thread.

Do you know if there were any specific instructions created to show what and how to do? . . . I have no problem hacking my old fuel strip to do that (after zapping and clearing codes). I'm just not clear on what's needed.

If it involves buying an additional 125€ adapter, plus duty, tax, shipping to Canada, then I'd rather just re-pin. The BMW float alone costs 222€ (equivalent) in Canada, plus the adapter cable, plus a 147€ OBDLink device . . . this is getting very costly!

Is there an issue with re-pinning I should be aware of? . . . That wasn't clear in all the responses in the thread either. I have no problem messing around re-pinning if it doesn't create or fail to solve other issues. But if doing that causes things like the fault to reappear, or affects range or reserve readings, then yeah, I'd rather not re-pin.
 
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page 1 covers it - but adds complexity splitting the ZFE multiplugs apart - you can just push out the blanking section of a dead pin (shave a bicycle wheel spoke square and get on with it)

this is a nice view of what to do (diff bike but same wires and same modules)

https://www.ukgser.com/forums/showt...mplete-guide?p=6068359&viewfull=1#post6068359

you'll also see the sensor that clips on the filler neck bit is the same sensor that clips on the pump - my 2007 GS has the section it clips on to - but maybe that's a later design - as my pump was swapped out under a recall 5 years back

I recco ADDING wires not re pinning - the OLD strip has the right plug and the right length and gauge wires you just need to crimp on the female terminals and thus your bike can be either or - and so not a non-standard bike.

Re-Pin VS addon box of tricks

on a GSA the tank and the placement of the pump allows direct fitment of either a strip or a float sensor and to get a good level reading
a GS or GSA with ESA should have the correct twin socket ZFE that carries the correct software and necessary logic to work the float with two wires to the correct pins on the ZFE (an RT might not have the required software)
you can modify your bike and make use of the current sensor plug and wiring but move the wires to the correct section so it work (this is cheap but its a phaff if your ZFE isn't suitable)
if you add both sets of wiring and the tank only has to come off once and you retain a standard bike (with extras)
you can avoid removing the tank or playing junior electrician and not need access to a GS911 or Motoscan, by buying the gadget from NL - BUT the level display MIGHT be more erratic than a well fitted and functioning fuel strip - this is due to the float placement rather than the device (hence the clip to the filler neck some GS models have)

you should update the MX+ new firmware came out just over a month ago https://www.scantool.net/downloads/updates/obdlink_mxp/

Version 5.6.24

Release Date: March 22, 2022
Level of Importance: Recommended

This release fixed a few bugs:

Fixed CAN ERROR of aborted frame not being handled correctly
Fixed OUT OF MEMORY issue caused by faulty CAN bus
Fixed STPPMD for non-existent handles
Fixed STPPMA for 29 bit CAN
Fixed ATMP with USER1 preset
Fixed OUT OF MEMORY issue related to async CAN processing

This release also added a couple of new features:

Added STPFEPS command to control FEPS adapter
Implemented HS CAN wakeup
 
Thanks, Botus . . . you have been extremely helpful!

I'm in the throes of preparing to move to Spain from Canada (permanently) in the beginning of July, so I'm a bit swamped with a plethora of other things at the moment, but I'll dig into your info over the next week or so. I just want to fully understand what I'm getting into before I proceed too far.
:beerjug:
 
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I’ve been checking out the availability of that float and the US and Canada prices (especially the latter) are ridiculously stupid. I can get one in the EU for $150 Cdn. In US or Canada, with shipping, tax, etc., it’s between $280 - $325!

So, I think I’m just going to wait and do that work in Spain. The zap on the strip so far is still working, so hopefully it lasts until the bike is shipped and maybe for a bit after it arrives. Once I get to Spain, I'll order the part so I have it on hand when the bike arrives.
 
Botus: Thanks for all the great info. I followed your idea and zapped the old strip to clear the error and then did the float conversion with converter from. Probeemer. Worked like a charm. 2009 R1200GS Adventure with ESA.
 
Glad I could help.... I use the 12v socket under the seat to energise a relay and then that's powered direct off the battery. That was the method Probeemer recco. He said you can perm wired to the battery - but for me that would give battery drain and put the box of tricks under more strain.

I see I put this calibration tip in the wrong thread.. I discovered some interesting aspects if you calibrate a fuel strip and it fails - you'll get the fuel strip error code that clears, and the miles and fuel display continue to count down, which makes you think OK, the failed calibration just didn't achieve anything....

But then it does nothing at all when you next fill it up. Reacting as if you've put nothing in... so orange light and fuel message on the cluster remain, and the distance to empty counts down from the point it was at when you rode to the petrol station and then at Zero the display reads "- -" and stays there with no error messages stored in the ECU - Thus BMW deliberately mess it up to get you back to the dealership - software that wasn't written by crooks would just leave the old values stored

So got the repaired strip out the cupboard (piezo igniter trick 19 times) and 4 paper clips, gave myself a 10% chance and fortunately 4 mins later "fuel strip calibration successful" - connected things up, did 20 yards and get a full tank of fuel (it was full)
 
Need help with fuel strip conversion to float

Hello,

I have a 2008 BMW K1200GT with ESA and have done the float conversion, but the pins for the ECU are beyond me. I have followed the tutorial i saw posted here but it doesn't match the pin outs on my harness connector. (one of the supposedly unused and blocked off pins already has a connector in it) I am quite sure i am missing something and if someone here could help that would be very much appreciated!
 
are you looking at the correct socket?

the numbering is so small and so confusing its very easy to muddle things up this is how on K bike

https://www.k-bikes.com/attachments/changing-petrol-strip-to-float-pdf.28807/ check Page 8

add two new wires and u keep either or configuration

At the ZFE major connector blocks. Find the empty Pin position 21 on the black plug and empty pin position 37 on the white plug NOTE we are only working on ONE of the TWO ZFE major connectors - we are not swapping wires between both major connectors

Noting these as std would have a plastic blanking plug in these positions that you will have to remove. Use something like a modified bicycle spoke. Its easier with glasses, a torch and a second person to use a small tool to start to break away the 4 tiny moulding points that hold the blanking pins in (accessed from the wire end) - then push out backwards towards the wire end using the bike spoke (pic 12 & 13).

To release the old wires (if not doing it correctly - by adding two extras (to retain either or configuration). Use a pick push down on the pin's retention tabs to release them (the bits you can see on the side of the mutliplug). Push out Pin 34 green/red wire on the white plug and insert it into pin position 21 in the black plug. Then push out pin 35 with brown/blue wire on the white plug and relocate to pin position 37 of the same white plug (pic 11).
Now put it all back together.


If a K1200 has a muddled up mess (like some suggest the R1200RT's have) then the software inside the ZFE is likely configured differently (to suit a different cluster / other toys on the bikes) and you may well need the probeemer adapt float info to a strip input, and then you don't need to play wires at the ZFE
 


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