SACHS SHOCK REBUILD

schneazle weazle said:
2016 gsa, like I said I took it to Williams bmw and they couldn’t sort it, I spoke at length to the engineer and he always helpful but this time could not offer any advice except to tell it would not work.

I was just replying to some else’s thread telling of what I did.
Click to expand...

First of all, it's not my attitude that the BMW mechanics are stupid or ignorant, but they have to obey by the BMW philosophy, which is to not repair stuff, but rather exchange broken parts with new parts. And quite often, that is a good idea,

If the issue for the schock is a stuck ride height system, caused by the gear not being used for a long time, relubricating the old part may do the trick.

BMW prescribe a test procedure, and the shop HAS TO obey by it, or else they run the risk of getting an rather unpleasant attention from the mothership. The BMW procedure in this case is to run the diagnostics, and when the ride height motor is stuck due to a stuck gear, the system throws a fault message, and the only way with BMW is to replace. There is no BMW procedure to lubricate the ride height adjuster motor and gear in the rear schock.

Back in the days of the K1300 series, this was also an issue. At the time, BMW issued a bulletin that described how to disconnect the schock connector and hook it up directly to the battery. I've seen it, and used it once on the K1300GT for a friend of mine.

Now, the R1200 schocks may of course be different, and this may be only nonsense from my part (which, according to my better half, is the rule rather than the exception.)
However, since the schock in the video looked quite similar to the older ones, and the OP's schock is already out, it wouldn't take much effort to dismantle the motor, like shown in the video. And, as shown in the video, tha adjustment shaft is easily turned by hand when it's ok.
 
And this is why the manual says to cycle through the settings every so often, to keep it all moving.
 
There is some good information in this thread, thanks to all those that have added to the knowledge in it.
 
Hello ! I have an R1250gs and today while i was detailing i noticed in the rear esa suspension the dust cover which is inside the spring is rotating left and right. I mean its sliding like you unscrew a bottle of water , it is not going up and down tho . Is this normal ? Thanks in advance
 
I used to cycle my suspension every month, and it was always run in the soft setting

It failed at 38K cost to replace was £1k with goodwill
 
Santa-2512 said:
I used to cycle my suspension every month, and it was always run in the soft setting

It failed at 38K cost to replace was £1k with goodwill
Click to expand...

What do you mean cycle? The dust cover?
Any clue about it would be helpful because im.thinking about it . Also i am noticing some greasy - oily stuff on the preload tube
 
Alexgr said:
What do you mean cycle? The dust cover?
Any clue about it would be helpful because im.thinking about it . Also i am noticing some greasy - oily stuff on the preload tube
Click to expand...

Cycle, as in operate the adjustment settings via the LH cluster

On the early LC, the damping (?) changes automatically with each mode

Road - Normal
Rain - Soft
Dynamic - Hard
Enduro -Soft

Each of the modes can be manually altered by the rider so Normal, Soft, Hard

The preload(?) has to be cycled manually by the rider

Std settings

One helmet
One helmet & luggage
Two helmets & luggage

To change these settings the shock absorber button must be pressed & held until the respective symbols appear in the Kombi

You can see the back end of the bike rise and fall as you do this

Its easier to do this off the bike, although it can be scary to find your legs dont touch the floor if you do it sitting on the bike.

All i could tell with mine was there was no damping (very bouncy) with the ignition off, but the bike had damping (firm) with the ignition on ( so i assumed this was ok)

Apparently not, after the dealer ran the diagnosticon on it lol

Cue the big bill :( 1K with 50% goodwill contribution
 
There is no one helmet - two etc on the 1250gs 23 . There is only max and min and auto. Although i am asking if the interior dust cover on the suspension which is inside the spring can be rotated, to be spinned on itself left and right . I am asking this because i just cleaned it and i am wondering if there is something broken inside , can someone please reply on that ? Dealer is closed today
 
Alexgr said:
There is no one helmet - two etc on the 1250gs 23 . There is only max and min and auto. Although i am asking if the interior dust cover on the suspension which is inside the spring can be rotated, to be spinned on itself left and right . I am asking this because i just cleaned it and i am wondering if there is something broken inside , can someone please reply on that ? Dealer is closed today
Click to expand...

I couldnt say,

i guess from your description your referring to the black tube at the lower of the shock, or the silver tube at the top ..

Either way , if your not sure take it to the dealer when they open. Ie if it's broken only they can fix it , or if it's not broken no worries
 
No, That movement is completely normal. Its fine.
 
So i shouldn't take it to the dealer ? Yes i am referring to the tube which is the dust cover . It just spins on it self like the earth haha , is it normal right ? Cause i have a bit of anxiety if it broke down
 
The whole unit moves left & right. And many people have come to the same conclusion, Its Broke ! It isnt.
 
Santa-2512 said:
Cycle, as in operate the adjustment settings via the LH cluster

On the early LC, the damping (?) changes automatically with each mode

Road - Normal
Rain - Soft
Dynamic - Hard
Enduro -Soft

Each of the modes can be manually altered by the rider so Normal, Soft, Hard

The preload(?) has to be cycled manually by the rider

Std settings

One helmet
One helmet & luggage
Two helmets & luggage

To change these settings the shock absorber button must be pressed & held until the respective symbols appear in the Kombi

You can see the back end of the bike rise and fall as you do this

Its easier to do this off the bike, although it can be scary to find your legs dont touch the floor if you do it sitting on the bike.

All i could tell with mine was there was no damping (very bouncy) with the ignition off, but the bike had damping (firm) with the ignition on ( so i assumed this was ok)

Apparently not, after the dealer ran the diagnosticon on it lol

Cue the big bill :( 1K with 50% goodwill contribution
Click to expand...

Only the one my 2014 GSA had 2 replacement fronts and 2 rears in 30 months and less than 13,000 miles
 
Yeah i know about the unit , but what about the inside tube dust cover ? Its only rotating - spining left and right , is that specific normal ?
 
I have seen on some youtube videos and step by step photos that as they rip it apart the dust cover tube sit in-between a plastic o ring that sits directly on the spring and the othwr dust cover which is in the outter side of the spring . so i guess the force of the spring - load should make it steady right ? Otherwise i cant understand why it moves ...
 
My Dealer said that it checked on the other bmw he has there and none of them inside tubular dust cover has the rotational - spining movement, they are all steady , so either he didn't do it the right way or mine is a bit of loose - crappep ? Also none of them rubbing with the spring on a specific area of the cover
 
Simon_100 said:
Wow, this looks interesting. I've hung on to the OM Sachs shop form my X-Country since it went loco about 2015 and I replaced it with a Wilbers unit, never had the heart to just throw it away ...

Could it be refurbished?
Click to expand...

yes - had mine done via Denzo T Tech suspension, had an upgraded spring and modified damping - cost 250 pounds. Very pleased
 
Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
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