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Yes I can install a custom spring to them units in any color you like. The cost of service and new spring would be about 210 for LC models.Denzo
I have a 2017 GS which has the 'automatic' suspension. I've always felt that the bike could do with a bit more preload or a stiffer spring. I weigh some 95kg and also often take a pillion but she weighs next to nothing probably only 55kg and we also often have luggage on as well
Do you know if you can put a firmer spring on the back to help with this or would this just confuse the auto setting?
Yes I can install a custom spring to them units in any color you like. The cost of service and new spring would be about 210 for LC models.
Spring will be calculated to your weight.
Like the gentlemen above said" stronger spring gives plusher ride" yes I know it doesn't make sense, but that's how the suspension works...plus your sag is right that way you get more usable suspension travel.
One more fact about ZF/Sachs by 30K guide bush in the sealed is worn to the limit or already rubbing or the bare metal. Simple service can extend the shock lifetime drastically.
Look on the picture below 35K LC guide bush completely gone.. next 20k doesn't look much better
60K 2010 ESA RT guide bush and shaft but that was too late
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If you not going mad with the rear spring front could be adjusted normallyyou just can't see them when spring is mounted needs to be compressed.you have two extra positions for your front spring adjustment
Spring change is not mandatory springs are calculated to your weight and needs.
measuring suspension SAG is the only way to find out if you in the range. Typically this be 33% Of your total suspension travel.
If you travel off-road and constantly bottoming out then that's another reason for the upgrade.
Normally spring alone will cost £ 75
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Yes, there is a manual preload adjuster on the front shock but only accessible when the spring is compressed 3 position adjustment.
I would have to check that but with that kind of weight 60N/mm on the front and 175N/mm or 185N/mm rear would work here.
I guess hardest part here would be getting the shock out.
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Wow, this looks interesting. I've hung on to the OM Sachs shop form my X-Country since it went loco about 2015 and I replaced it with a Wilbers unit, never had the heart to just throw it away ...
Could it be refurbished?
I did exactly the same, I replaced my rear unit after it failed at 32,000, with Wilbers, it failed on the day of the first lockdown. I kept the old unit in my shed for 18 months or so, then decided to get Denz0 to perform his magic. when I put it back on my bike I could not get the electronics to work. I even took it to BMW to see if they could plug it in to the mothership, but still, it would not work. so that was £250 wasted as I asked him to upgrade the spring.
I was gutted, and still to this day do not know why it wouldn't adjust, now done close to 20,000 on my wilbers, happy with it, but it's a ball ache adjusting the pre-load castle nut, from solo to pillion with luggage. but it's what we used to do years ago, just got out of practice I suppose.
please note I am not saying this was caused by Denz0,
if I ever get a new bike the first thing I will do is send the new units down to him for upgrade.
There is no mentioning of year and model here, but generally speaking, the so called electronics in these shocks are not really containing any electronics as such.
There is a motor that adjusts the preload (unless your bike is a paralell twin) and either a small motor or solenoids controlling the damping.
If the shocks cause a fault message, something is stuck. Most likely, it is the preload motor that is causing the issue, as the preload also contains a potmeter that gives the system feedback of the chosen rideheight.
The preload, if not used on a regular basis, has a history of getting stuck. If so, when the ZFE tries to operate the preload, the stuck motor draws a heavy load in order to try to get things moving. The thing is, there is a built in resettable fuse in this circuit, and if the load is too high, it just shuts down.
The procedure is to unplug the shock and power it from an external source, and offering the unfused current is usually enough to get the preload system unstuck.
I don't have the description for this procedure right now, but someone in here surely has it, and I'll look for it my self.