In search of Father Jack.

Drumacoon Lad. · Feb 2, 2020

When I reached Nata I had completed 200km and it was time for a cold drink and something to eat, so I visited a supermarket and bought a sandwich and drink. The environment around the supermarket or service station was dusty and hot, so I decided to wait to have my lunch along the road, ideally in the shade at a picnic spot.

With my lunch in the topbox I rode out towards Maun. I was looking forward to this leg but noticed the temperature rising. I searched and searched for a picnic spot but there were none. I then noticed a bench, made of a branch tucked into the shade. It looked to be for locals to use when waiting for a bus. I pulled in and had a delightful lunch in perfect surroundings.

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Drumacoon Lad. · Feb 2, 2020

Now back to the road. The part outside Nata starts with a few kilometres of broken surface and even after that potholes were common, the size of a drain covers and with sharp edges and if you hit one it could do a lot of damage. This became more of an issue when I started to took out for ellies. Riding along with your eyes on the bush and not the road, is not conducive to spot potholes in time. Risk versus reward, the dilemma of the motorbike adventure traveler. Once I spotted elephant dung on the side of the road I got more excited in anticipation. However there were no ellies and I settled to just take a picture of the dung, as a symbol of what I might have seen.

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Drumacoon Lad. · Feb 2, 2020

When I had almost given up, I noticed something, about 50 meters from the road, almost hidden by a tree. I'd ridden past and had to turn around. He noticed me but continued trying to topple one part of the tree. I don't know whether it was too tough for him or if I disturbed him but he gave up and wandered off into the bush but not before I got a couple of pictures and had a bit of eye contact. The sighting was all that I'd hoped. Seeing this wonderful animal in the wild, without leaving the seat of my motorbike was rather special. Elephants look at you in a special way, which I find very powerful, as if they are trying to communicate.

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Drumacoon Lad. · Feb 2, 2020

Now beaming from ear to ear I resumed my journey. This road has a speed limit of 120km/ph and considering it is quite narrow and has animals along the route and sometimes on the road, the limit seems excessive to me. This thought was reinforced by one accident I came across involving a number of cars and looked like the first car had to stop suddenly and the others piled in to the rears. Later there were a further 2 ambulances rushing past, to probably another accident.

Then I spotted a campervan parked in the grass at the side of the road. The bonnet was up but the two men seemed relaxed. I debated stopping and then was reminded of a desert custom, where you always stop for a stranded driver so turned around. The two men were father and son from Holland and had a water pump fail. They had been able to contact a mechanic in Maun and he had one in stock and he was on the way. We debated out routes, the guy had shared some of the journey with his wife and kids and when they returned to Holland, his dad had come down to join him. It was a great meeting on the road and if karma works as it should, then if I break down someone will stop for me.

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Drumacoon Lad. · Feb 2, 2020

Back to riding and the heat, it was hot now. I was fortunate in having a following wind which was whisking me along, sometimes at over 90km/ph. That excessive speed was in danger of causing me to have blackouts, so I had to ease off

Copeing with the heat on the road takes a bit of conscious effort and I'm not always the best at doing what is necessary. Drinking enough water is key and I have a camelback in my tank bag, so try and drink regularly. When it gets really hot I'll stop, take my helmet off and pour water over my head and shirt. I needed to douse myself a few times on the leg into Maun.

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Drumacoon Lad. · Feb 2, 2020

Water is a bit expensive at the backpackers and I stocked up in Maun with a 5 liter drum which I strapped precariously on top of my rear bag, which stayed there for the journey to the campsite and despite the bumpy drive to reception.

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Drumacoon Lad. · Feb 2, 2020

So what is Backpackers? It's a campsite on a pool in the river by ancient bridge, possibly the oldest in Botswana. The river has been known to have Hippos and Crocodiles and there are warning signs listed on the lawn leading down to the river. In my previous visit I had seen both and was hoping I would be lucky again. However, when I arrived I was disappointed to find that the river had dried up apart from the deep pool which was smaller but still present. I was afraid this lack of water would mean there was not going to be much to see. How wrong I was.

I was also concerned the cost had gone up and my budget may also limit the time I could stay. Firstly the price got addressed by the kind owner who remembered me from my last visit and I was given a very attractive rate. Then the owner pointed out the large crocodile on the bank of the pool and said there were many more. Then the hippo appeared before it got dark, so maybe it sould be worth staying. I ordered a meal and sat by the TV and wearing my rugby shirt, watched Ireland, narrowly beat Scotland in the 6 Nations Rugby. After a few beers I retired to my tent. Overall, not a bad day and looked forward to tomorrow

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wreck diver · Feb 2, 2020

What a cracking day,hope it continues as good.
Safe riding.

Drumacoon Lad. · Feb 2, 2020

After a good night's sleep I enjoyed my shower in the outside en-suite area. Made some coffee and went out onto the veranda overlooking the pool. I was pleased, but not surprised to see the hippo up the other end of the pool, as I had heard it during the night. The croc was also there all 4+ metres of him. Things got more interesting when the cattle came down to drink at the pool. Because of the drought the cattle were very thirsy and rushed down to the waters edge. At this point the big crocodile slipped into the pool and swam towards the cattle. However before the croc arrived the cattle drew back from the edge and no drama occurred. Those attacks only happen in wildlife documentaries not in front of normal tourists, I thought. Then a large bird flew in and perched some distance away. It was a magnificent fish eagle, things were looking up. Then the fish eagle took off and perched in the tree above my veranda and later was joined by its mate. They then emitted a scary call together which I assume to be a mating call but it was both spine chilling and wonderful. This was almost enough excitement for one day so I left the tent and went up to the restaurant area to catch up on this RR/blog.

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B Murr · Feb 2, 2020

Sounds like the pool is like water holes for animals which are busier in dry season as harder for them to find water elsewhere.

Drumacoon Lad. · Feb 2, 2020

Of course while trying to write, it was hard to keep my eye of the pool. The arrival of some thirsty goats attracted my attention and that of the crocodile. It was like watching a car crash in slow motion. The goats were drinking away unaware of the danger. The croc approached then disappeared under water. My heart pounding I got my camera out. The goats continued drinking. I held my breath. Then suddenly in about 3 seconds, the croc struck, grabbing one of the goats and dragged it under water. The goat and croc disappeared for a short time. The goats ran away but incredibly they returned almost immediatly to drink again. Some of you may be ahead of me now. The croc let go of the dead goat and disappeared under water again. The goats continued to drink, the croc struck again and dragged another goat under water.

We all gasped at the sight and tried to take in what had just happened. It seemed the drought, causing the goats to be careless gave the croc an opportunity to have a couple of meals. Over the next hour or so the croc flailed the goat around as it dismembered it

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Drumacoon Lad. · Feb 2, 2020

The hippo took a keen interest and at one point took the carcass off the croc, but the croc took it cack. A local guy explained that the hippos and crocs do not get on together. The hippos don't like to see the croc eat or attack other animals. Hippos will sometimes get between the croc and the animal, pushing thirsty animals away from the water. While this drama was going on a monitor lizard appeared but was wary of the feeding croc. Fish eagles swooped occasionally close to the croc, as I suspect fish were feeding on bits of the goat. Maybe these developments in the pool, gives you an idea why this place is one of my favourites in the world. Beats sitting on a beach anyway, but all this excitement makes it difficult to concentrate on typing my notes. To finish the day the hippo came out of the pool as darkness arrived, as shown in this grainy photo.

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Edventure · Feb 2, 2020

That’s not something you see everyday Jim&#55357;&#56883;

simondippenhall · Feb 3, 2020

Amazing stuff! Give my regards to the guy running Backpackers

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Drumacoon Lad. · Feb 3, 2020

Thanks guys. Will do Simon. The owner has been very helpful and probably pleased the weather seems to have broken. As a biker I have different feelings.

Right about the poll, it draws prey to the hungry predators, like at waternng holes in the bush!

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Greyrover · Feb 4, 2020

A great read and excellent photos Jim

Drumacoon Lad. · Feb 5, 2020

The day after the crocodile incident was much calmer at Backpackers and the remaining goats stayed away. The cattle still came down to drink at the other end of the pool watched over by the attentive hippo. As it was Monday the staff caught up on some well needed rest after the busy weekend.

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Drumacoon Lad. · Feb 5, 2020

I took the bike into town to fill up and get some provisions for the long ride to Kasane the next day. Along the road firewood was for sale. I also stopped on a bridge looking down on a scene, very different from what I had seen, one year ago. Last year the cattle were cooling off in this river. There have been good rains in SA and other places but not Botswana.

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Drumacoon Lad. · Feb 5, 2020

Later in the the day things appeared to change, as the clouds built up and thunder rumbled. Pretty soon we had an intense, but sadly for the locals, a short storm. It made me review my plans to travel the next day and I checked that I could stay another night if needed. A heavy downpour does make the open air en-suite somewhat less attractive, particularly when you omit to remove the toilet paper, before the start of the downpour!

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Drumacoon Lad. · Feb 5, 2020

The storm made me check the forecast more thoroughly and it seemed that the weather the next day would be dry but rain would come in later in the week. So after dinner I began packing in earnest. The ride would be around 615km, not a long ride in Europe on a big bike. Out here, on a little bike it could take around 10 hours, so I decided to start at 6. I hoped this would be the longest single ride of the trip, forced by poor accomodation en route. As I woke at 5:00, I was a bit daunted to see it was pitch black outside. However I continued with loading the bike and as 6:00 approached it brightened considerably. An as I took a last look at the pool, all was calm, but a new bird had entered the scene. Can you spot him?

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In search of Father Jack.

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