Front sprocket nut won't come undone.
- Thread starter steadysteve
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If heat doesn’t do it, I’d split the nut, rather than risk tipping the bike over or damaging the shaft.
Understood. I suggested a hot-air gun-- hopefully the sprocket would shield the output shaft seal from the direct blast.
Breaker bar first.
Heat second.
Grind/Split the nut last resort.
Hoping for a progress report tomorrow.
ReGenesis
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A torque wrench will be ruined being used like that.
Wouldn’t particularly trust it afterwards
Wouldn’t particularly trust it afterwards
Rattle gun is the tool for the job 
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Great minds think alike. Too late now, it's had a fair bit of grief..
On my Versys 650 I tried it all ,started with a 1/2" drive and breaker bar with rear brake applied and in gear ,not a chance . Then tried a 1/2" drive windy gun...nada , then a borrowed professional 1/2 drive impact gun (usually used on working on trucks) ...... nope, a borrowed 3/4" drive windy gun and socket ....nope
Went through all the tools before ending up eventually with a 3/4 drive socket set on a breaker bar with a 6 foot length of scaffolding bar and the rear brake applied ,the bike in gear and a solid lump of wood through the spokes locking the wheel against the swinging arm , with a 15 stone plus mate on the end of the scaffie bar it cracked loose and then easily unscrewed.
When it cracked off I honestly thought the output shaft had snapped .
Went through all the tools before ending up eventually with a 3/4 drive socket set on a breaker bar with a 6 foot length of scaffolding bar and the rear brake applied ,the bike in gear and a solid lump of wood through the spokes locking the wheel against the swinging arm , with a 15 stone plus mate on the end of the scaffie bar it cracked loose and then easily unscrewed.
When it cracked off I honestly thought the output shaft had snapped .
Hot air gun?
While heat is an obviously good idea, I'd be wary of using a hot air gun as (IMHO) by the time there's enough heat in there to loosen the nut / it might bugger up the oil seal in behind the sprocket.
I could be wrong.
While heat is an obviously good idea, I'd be wary of using a hot air gun as (IMHO) by the time there's enough heat in there to loosen the nut / it might bugger up the oil seal in behind the sprocket.
I could be wrong.
While heat is an obviously good idea, I'd be wary of using a hot air gun as (IMHO) by the time there's enough heat in there to loosen the nut / it might bugger up the oil seal in behind the sprocket.
I could be wrong.
That's a possibility-- I've offered to help but won't be wielding any hot air guns, chisels, angle grinders, or 6' scaffold poles
. I'll hold the bike steady...and make the tea.
Sprocket on my wee xt660 z Tenere would not budge even with a proper breaker bar ,any more long leverage on it just felt wrong to me . My bike mechanic mate removed it in 2 seconds with a 1/2" drive battery impact gun . I felt that would be putting a lot less strain on the gearbox internals , lots of modest hits as opposed to one massive strain , could be quite wrong here but it's just what my mechanical instincts were telling me .
... and to be there for him should the worst happen.That's a possibility-- I've offered to help but won't be wielding any hot air guns, chisels, angle grinders, or 6' scaffold poles
moving swiftly on...I've found that if you can direct high heat to a very small area quickly - it usually works.
If it's slow and spreads that's when there's trouble.
Also - an old trick is to apply a candle to the threads for a second after heating. The thinking there is that the wax can get in to the threads and aid loosening like Plusgas / WD40 etc. does.
Last time i did this job was with a socket, a long 1/2" drive bar and a pole over the end of that.
When it did go - it made a scary sound as below
- but it did work and no harm was done.Good Luck.
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Heat. Lots of heat. It's probably got red loctite on it and ends plenty of heat to soften.
Then hit it with an impact wrench or a big long breaker bar.
Then hit it with an impact wrench or a big long breaker bar.
This is what I’d do. If either of you know someone with a cordless rattler and the correct size socket you’ll have it off in seconds. If you’re using a standard socket rather than an impact one wear a pair of goggles because they do have a tendency to disintegrate if you keep load on them for too long
If it’s rideable and you’re free tomorrow drop me a pm, bring the bike down to my place and I’ll lend you a rather powerful impact gun, I’ll be home all day so any time would be fine. After tomorrow I’m not home for a couple of weeks so wouldn’t be able to help at short notice.
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I’ve just remembered that I’ve got a 6.5:1 torque multiplier in my van and used with a 450mm 1/2” breaker undoes anything done up with a 1/2” Milwaukee cordless rattler if you can lock the back wheel 
Same offer as before, have a nice little ride down tomorrow and the nut’s toast
Same offer as before, have a nice little ride down tomorrow and the nut’s toast
I’ve just remembered that I’ve got a 6.5:1 torque multiplier in my van and used with a 450mm 1/2” breaker undoes anything done up with a 1/2” Milwaukee cordless rattler if you can lock the back wheel
Same offer as before, have a nice little ride down tomorrow and the nut’s toast
Thanks Andy that's great, will bear it in mind-- he was going to attack it this weekend, hasn't had chance during the week.
I’ve got to be heading north at 10am tomorrow but if you want to get up early it shouldn’t take long but failing that I should be home in a fortnight.
Cheers-- it's not possible tomorrow but thanks anyway.
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