R1250GS Exclusive - Engine Noise (Valve Tick) Cylinder Pod

I didn't need to remove the LH lower crash bar at all on my 1250GSA, I just used a normal offset-crank 19mm ring spanner to undo and an offset-crank 19mm ring spanner to tighten the new one. The job took all of three minutes to complete.

I guess if you use a socket wrench you would need to remove the crash bar but why make life difficult for yourself if there is an easier way?

On the subject of oil, my GSA had stood on the centre stand for two days before I removed the old tensioner and virtually no oil came out, unlike the youtube video where his engine had been run. I guess this proves that the tensioner oil drains away when stood. I only wiped fresh oil onto the piston and O-ring before installing the new item but there was no noticeable camchain clatter on start up unlike my old hexhead which always clattered from LH cylinder on startup.

The bike now sounds way better with the new tensioner and feels a little smoother when running.

I took mine out with a ring spanner without moving the engine bars, but the 3/8 drive torque wrench and socket wouldn’t fit in the gap. I suppose I could have used a crows foot, but they are at the back of my tool chest and out of sight, out of mind.

Barely any oil lost from mine as well (cold engine).
 
I took mine out with a ring spanner without moving the engine bars, but the 3/8 drive torque wrench and socket wouldn’t fit in the gap. I suppose I could have used a crows foot, but they are at the back of my tool chest and out of sight, out of mind.

Barely any oil lost from mine as well (cold engine).

I didn't bother to use a torque wrench when tightening the new tensioner body into the head casting, just an 19mm offset ring spanner and a 'feel' for the tightness.

(Just spotted an error in my original statement, it was obviously a 17mm offset ring spanner I used to undo the old tensioner, not a 19mm as wrongly stated.)

After many years as a Mechanical Engineer I reckon I can judge when its tight enough (and also too tight), plus I've heard enough stories of people stripping threads into alloy below the approved torque settings.
 
Hi All. I posted this reply, likely in the wrong place so thought i'd re-post here....

"New to forum. Was on a GS forum years ago but simply can't remember if it was this one! TCALSS, bought 1250 Rallye (privately) in August but first proper ride began on 9th Sept down to Pyrenees. Bike was brill.! 1770 miles all good, though noticed left cylinder getting noisy-ish.
Bike was booked in for the drain plug on 21st at Chandlers in Brighton. Mentioned the noise and that I'd read about the cam chain mod. They mentioned the shaft check. Took bike to them, they checked noise and replaced with updated cam tensioner.(19mmhead)
Checked shaft, which was measured as out of spec and replaced it. Did the drain mod too Only marks I found were from grease smears. So all in all, very happy with BMW and their service.
No noise and driveline feels smoother, especially on a closed throttle, decelerating on engine braking."

Bike is a 2020 with, now, 23000mls
 
Having read this (and my 2019 R1250GS being out of warranty now), I'll look to do this myself. Just so I DON'T overtighten - can anyone advise what the torque of the new 19mm tensioner should be? TIA.
 
My tensioner was changed by the dealer during its routine service today.
It’s made a big difference. The noise is still there but no louder than any of the other engine noise.
I was reassured that there is no harm being done to the engine and it’s classed a ‘comfort’ swap.:comfort
 
My tensioner was changed by the dealer during its routine service today.
It’s made a big difference. The noise is still there but no louder than any of the other engine noise.
I was reassured that there is no harm being done to the engine and it’s classed a ‘comfort’ swap.:comfort

A comfort swap… that must be bmw speak :nenau. I wish my motor was as quiet when it’s hot as it is cold, even selecting 1st gear is totally silent but when warm it’s pretty cringeworthy sometimes !. If there was a 5W/50 oil available I’d try that.
 
Which dealer steve ?

Marshall,Laceby. I mentioned it when I booked the service. Jess is on the Motorrad service desk again and said they would have a listen. No messing about, just changed it.

Just to clarify, when I say the noise is still there it’s barely noticeable and certainly isn’t alarming. If I wasn’t specifically listening for it then it would just blend into the clatter and rattles that these LC engines are known for.

‘Comfort swap’ fits in with my theory that BMW are changing them to keep the punters happy , rather than it being a mechanical issue.
Anyway, this punter is happy.
 
Just to clarify, when I say the noise is still there it’s barely noticeable and certainly isn’t alarming. If I wasn’t specifically listening for it then it would just blend into the clatter and rattles that these LC engines are known for.

‘Comfort swap’ fits in with my theory that BMW are changing them to keep the punters happy , rather than it being a mechanical issue.
Anyway, this punter is happy.

My take on it is that the factory realised that fitting a longer-travel tensioner would quieten things down so started fitting them to the latest bikes on the production lines, and some dealers are happy to retrofit them if you ask to the older models.

I bought my own and fitted it as I got an indifferent response to my noise complaint from my local dealership.
 
An old thread I know but just wondering how owners are finding the left side rattle further down the line with the new tensioner ?.
 
An old thread I know but just wondering how owners are finding the left side rattle further down the line with the new tensioner ?.
Hi Panman40.
I have had mine on now for a few months (fitted it myself) and it's a bit quieter but not loads. I had it checked at the 3 year service in June and they said everything was "normal". I don't think about it anymore if I can help it.
 
Hi Panman40.
I have had mine on now for a few months (fitted it myself) and it's a bit quieter but not loads. I had it checked at the 3 year service in June and they said everything was "normal". I don't think about it anymore if I can help it.
Hi Rowle,
Thanks for the reply, that’s what seems to be the dealers reply doesn’t it. Same here really, still rattly at idle I did the valve clearances last week and tightened a few up to nearer the minimum limits, I had a feeling it wouldn’t make any difference to the hot rattle but I’m safe in the knowledge now the clearances have been checked properly. I couldn’t see any wear or pitting etc on the cam lobes so like you I think I’ll just ignore it going forward.
 


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