VX800 and a GS with a booster plug

fuel tap gone mental again... was double checking it has got over its lunacy prior to refitting the tank....

two positions low fuel quantity....

so should only get fuel in reserve, that doesn't work!
and vac works but with low fuel, which can't happen

GREAT !

with no internals to the tap everything makes sense, as in each of the two tank outlets with there little filters are clear and flow to diff parts of the tap, how the vac system cuts the fuel makes sense and operates correctly... But how the fuel comes from reserve doesn't compute and indeed doesn't work... but its fitted the only way possible and I get the above madness

just took another look, even with the tap element on the bench (front part missing) no fuel come out the outlet unless there a vacuum... which lines up with above. It can't operate so goodness knows how its designed. The replacement parts are identical to what came out... and all idiot proofed
 
well, through a process of confusion and rebuilding pointlessly umpteen times, I've come to the conclusion some nut job (Suzuki - I supposed rightly) converted life to a vacuum tap on reserve too... thus prime only functions with lots in the tank !!!

que hard to start with only 2 litres and empty carbs
 
FYI did about 100 miles yesterday on the GS in stock condition.... (after resetting the adaptions) with 99 octane and 200 miles of gentle riding rebuilding life, on bigger throttle settings it is better than I ever managed to get the current map to run with the PC3 involved....but god the low speed issues they allowed it out of the building with are truly disgusting and quite shocking...

I don't know how or why... but the original map and the PC3 worked great...

the later map and the PC3 just couldn't get on no matter what you did...

In stock set up with the later map, on off closed throttle is much better std (slowing up in traffic is good now, with the PC3 is was mad), >10 throttle is much better std. But 1% to 5% throttle 1600 to 3500rmp its just awful and its not improving, its so bad it makes me want to connect the PC3 up again....

As is now I get why the AF-XIED are probably the perfect solution
 
Larry had those guys over for a week demo'ing the product... I think on zzr1400, in the end he told them to sling their hook.

the eco is the budget one, not very sophisticated and little more than a Power comander. The grown up one was the one he couldn't see worked. The way he pitched it to me was every morning the dimsport stuff was confused and didn't run right, they'd spend the day redoing the map on the dyno with dimsport techs in attendance and next day it was muddled again.

Larry these days admits the Power comander is a joke and not fit for today's bikes, he told me EU law means the manu has to make it hard to play with... He felt Woolwich racing probably had some of the best ideas for current stuff. But then said when he has issues with woolwich mods it turns out they don't really know what they are doing they just found part of the map that appeared to have the effect they wanted so guessed that's how the manu was addressing that bodge / anti cheat idea.... And Larry has to ring Woolich to say they guessed wrong... and when that happens it can take weeks for Woolwich to re guess at another random bit of garbage in the map that might be the real deal they need to sort.

Win OLS is the ONLY stuff that seems to touch BM maps and then you find its all mental confusion.... I suspect they have multiple maps and it picks a random one each day.... and the adaptions are missing or muddled or indeed the map they actually modified might come back in to play next week when its raining….
 
Larry had those guys over for a week demo'ing the product... I think on zzr1400, in the end he told them to sling their hook.

the eco is the budget one, not very sophisticated and little more than a Power comander. The grown up one was the one he couldn't see worked. The way he pitched it to me was every morning the dimsport stuff was confused and didn't run right, they'd spend the day redoing the map on the dyno with dimsport techs in attendance and next day it was muddled again.

Larry these days admits the Power comander is a joke and not fit for today's bikes, he told me EU law means the manu has to make it hard to play with... He felt Woolwich racing probably had some of the best ideas for current stuff. But then said when he has issues with woolwich mods it turns out they don't really know what they are doing they just found part of the map that appeared to have the effect they wanted so guessed that's how the manu was addressing that bodge / anti cheat idea.... And Larry has to ring Woolich to say they guessed wrong... and when that happens it can take weeks for Woolwich to re guess at another random bit of garbage in the map that might be the real deal they need to sort.

Win OLS is the ONLY stuff that seems to touch BM maps and then you find its all mental confusion.... I suspect they have multiple maps and it picks a random one each day.... and the adaptions are missing or muddled or indeed the map they actually modified might come back in to play next week when its raining….

That is interesting information :okay

I do not have any experience with the products from Rapid. Looking at the way it connects, and reading their description, they claim that the Rapid Easy does manipulate the O2 sensor signal, and the schematic shows a connection like the AF-XIED.

What do puzzle me though is: Why two trimmers? After all, there is only one value that is of interest, and that is the AFR, so why two trimmers? I will admit I assumed it was an intelligent unit, like the AF-XIED. However, the quoted feedback in the post above, and the use of two trimmers may lead to belive that the Easy model is merely some analogue manipulation of the O2 signal. If that is the case, it is a waste of money.

As a reference, the AF-XIED use one trimmer, and it sets the AFR level in several preprogrammed steps, i.e, even if it is a trim pot-meter, there is only the specified steps available. Nothing in-between.

Then, we are back to the AF-XIED, which we know works, and it's function may be explained and makes sense.
 
I could not see the reason for the two trimmers when one is enough, surely not an adjustment between steps .
The steps on the AF-XIED are clearly defined and the enrichment steps look to be about right.
Here is part of a AFR graph of the AF-XIED on setting 7 , this is recorded on the road with a Dual channel Innovate LM2.
It can be seen how closely it follows the 13.8 .1 setting as opposed to the 14.7 to 1 that the lambda sensor would normally have it run at in closed loop.
Also the short and long term fuel trims which I have herd folk say do not exist :nenau

iAUoRUx.png
[/IMG]
 
I'm too stupid to understand that chart without more help.... what bits am I supposed to understand is improving ?

bottom axis is ? revs ? or time and what happening is that as time ticks by things change ?
 
I'm too stupid to understand that chart without more help.... what bits am I supposed to understand is improving ?

bottom axis is ? revs ? or time and what happening is that as time ticks by things change ?

Ok. Here goes: "Lambda, fueling and AF-XIED for Dummies". (No pun intended :D)
(This will be a long one. Please bear with me)

Later years emission regulation requires engines to limit pollution. It's a fairly complex picture, but let's focus on the subject that annoys us, the fueling of the engine, or rather, lack of fuel.

Background: Lambda vs AFR

In an ideal world, perfect combustion for an engine is when every drop of gasoline find it's oxygen molecule to bond with, so when the mixture is ignited, every drop of gasoline has exploded, with no excess unburnt gasoline.

To analyze the combustion, the manufacturer installs an O2 sensor. The O2 sensor reacts to the amount of vacant (not used) oxygen molecules. And when there are no remaining oxygen in the exhaust, this condition is defined to Lambda 1.0
Tuners use the Air to Fuel Ratio, AFR. For a gasoline engine, the Lambda 1.0 will be reached when the AFR is 14,7, i.e 14,7g of air to 1g of gasoline.

Then why mess with Lambda, rather than AFR? The O2 sensor is searching for excessive oxygen. Different type og gasoline (as in mixed with ethanol etc) may offer different AFR. However, regardless of what type of gasoline the engine is burning. Lambda 1 will ALWAYS be the condition where all the oxygen is used.


In order to not add to confusion, we will from now on stick to the most common gasolin, that will offer AFR 14,7 for Lambda 1.

The Lambda sensor used in the debate (Used in BMW boxers up to introduction of the 1250 shiftcam engine, which use a different sensor type.)
So we are debating the Narrow band (NB) O2 sensor.

Here is a picture of the output from a warm NB sensor. When warm, the sensor will emit a voltage, according to the chart below.

24852912707_711974e867_z.jpg

(Picture is borrowed from NightRider that produce the AF-XIED)

The scales of AFR is adjusted to reflect gasoline that produce Lambda 1 at AFR 14,7. and the voltage output from the sensor for the different AFR values.

The different curves shows output vs sensor temperature. However, have a look at the 0,5V line. All curves emits the same voltage at AFR 14,6 - 14,8.

The ECU uses the O2 sensor feedback to inform if it runs too lean or too rich, i. e the interesting part is if the voltage from the sensor is above or below 0,5V (AFR 14,7)
But even so, at 0,8V output, the AFR is down to 14,2-ish. From there on, the voltage reading vs AFR will be less accurate.
The ECU couldn't care less about what happens when voltage is above or below 0.5V. the ECU sees richer than or leaner than AFR 14,7, even if the voltage output slightly varies with AFR in a highly non-linear manner.

So, when the engine runs, the amount of fuel injected is calculated from tables inside the ECU (called maps, hence remapping meant changing the value in the tables). The tables offers information to how long (time in milliseconds ) the injectors are opened, depending on RPM, throttle position etc. There are actually several maps, but for simplicity lets just say there are preinstalled maps.

Now the engine is running, and fuel is delivered according to the maps. However, in order to fine tune the fueling, the O2 sensor offers feedback of the combustion. These small adjustments, called for by the O2 sensor, are called Short Term Trim, and it is basically a number that adds or subtracts to whatever time value for the opening of the injectors.

But keep in mind, the exhaust reflects the result after the combustion, i.e the O2 sensor will not tell ECU what to do. It tells the ECU how it did.
Let's say the airfilter is clogging up, restricting the airflow to the cylinder. Now, the pre-determened values from the maps will give the engine too much fuel, since the engine gets less air than expected. And the O2 sensor will tell the engine that the fueling is too rich, thus it needs to trim down on the amount of fuel. In a steady condition, this will work pretty well, but it will always need a couple of strokes of the piston in order to first analyze, and then inform if too lean or rich. And this goes on and on.

Her comes the Long term trim: At every condition (rpm vs throttle position), the Short term trim will be stored. It's tendency for richening or leaning is stored in small steps. But the point is, if a given condition consistently calls for a need of adjustment, this adjustment will be stored in the Long Term Trim table. And this table is part of the equation when the ECU collects data from different maps in order to determin the fueling. BMW calls the Long Term Trim the Adaptive map This is the map that gets zeroed out when ever BMW talks about restoring the adaptive values.

So much for reading the chart in the previous post.

So, what does the AF-XIED do, and how?

Take a look at the curve below.
The curve shows the voltage from a warm O2 sensor, and this is what the ECU reads. (Data from a -15 LC boxer)

49066354797_99e937e9c7_b.jpg


Up to 10 seconds, the engine is running with a steady throttle. At 10 seconds and after, the engine is accelerated.

Pre-10, the voltage from O2 sensor flickers between 0,1V and up to 0,9. When voltage is < 0,5 V the ecu sees 'Lean' and it will add a small amount of fuel. Then it keeps adding until the O2 reads back >0,5V. Now it's too rich, so time to reduce the fuel. This is done by correcting the short term trim. Go back to previous post and see how the Short term trim table varies...

At time mark 10 sec, the throttle is opened up. Now we see that the voltage jumps up to a steady 0,9V. Refer the table og O2 sensor voltage output vs AFR. The green curve reflects the 1200F temp of the O2 sensor, a fairly common condition, i.e when adding throttle, the AFR is richened to 13,6.

(What is the big dela about 13,6?
Well, the world is not perfect, hence in order to utilize all the oxygen molecules, we need to throw in some extra fuel for good measure. Practical tests have shown that adding a bit more fuel will make sure all the O2 molecules get their share of gas, and more molecules with fuel + O2 mixed means a more powerful explosion during the combustion, i.e more power)

The point I'm trying to say is: Any tuning of the engine that only involves controlling the fuel to air mixture will offer very little top end power, as the ECU OEM fueling allready offers the added fuel at full throttle (Full throttle has not been the focus of emission control, even if that may change in the future).
Tuning involving changing AFR will benefit when throttle is less than fully open, as in the condition in the first ten seconds og the chart above. And generally, when throttle is opened up in the higher range (the limit varies depending of the type of engine. For the F800, i know the limit is 80%) the fueling is richer than AFR 14,7

Here is where the AF-XIED shines:

Have a look at the chart below. It shows what the AF-XIED at setting 8 does to the engine.
Red curve is the voltage from the O2 sensor and now being analyzed by the AF-XIED, the blue curve shows the voltage produced by the AF-XIED and transmitted to the engine.

48197739222_042b42ed27_b.jpg


The Voltage from the O2 sensor (red) is read by the AF-XIED, and stops there. This voltage is analyzed, and the AF-XIED creates the blue curve and transmits this to the ECU. The ECU has no knowledge about the AF-XIED and behaves like this is the feedback from the O2 sensor.

Remember: High voltage = Rich. Low Voltage = Lean.
If we amplify the red curve, we will notice that every time the red curve drops below a straight line, the AF-XIED signals a low voltage to the ECU (And Low voltage = Lean condition). The ECU gets a Lean condition signal and reacts to it by richening the fuel.
Now, we don't want the fuel to go excessive rich, so when the red curve rise to slightly above the straight line, (hence going rich), it's time for the ECU to be stopped from keep richening the fuel mix. And this is done by the AF-XIED rising the voltage emulating the O2 sensor. Now the voltage output follows the actual O2 voltage and reports this to the ECU. The ECU will react to this richer than 0,5 V condition by once again starting to lean the mix, and on and on....

Clever little bugger, isn't it :D

The OEM variation between lean and rich being so slow actually does not reflect Bosch ability for accurate control. An engine with CAT needs to feed the CAT with oxygen. The cat use oxygen to convert CO to CO2, and this oxygen is delivered to the CAT through the exhaust, that is controlled to produce periodes with excessive O2 in order to feed the CAT. Hence the slow reaction time that allows for periods with too much oxygen. Hence, it is preferred to set the AF-XIED to a value rich enough for a smooth running, and no more. That's why they recommend to go from a low value and slowly increase the setting, one step at a time. The point of allowing time between each change is to allow for the ECU to rebuild the Long Term Trim for each time the setting has been changed.

Also, remember the NB sensor inaccuracy to AFR vs voltage depending on the sensor voltage. The AF-XIED aims to maintain a steady voltage feedback from the O2 sensor.
The LC2 system reading in previous post is based on a different type of sensor. It reports back the AFR. Hence even if the AF-XIED keeps a steady voltage from the NB sensor, varying sensor temperature will mean a slightly variable AFR . Thus, the AFR curve in the previous post shows a curve that is less straight than the direct voltage reading from the OEM NB O2 sensor.

If the goal is perfect, then the NB sensor needs to be replaced. But, given how well it works, even if less than perfect, it works well enough to where rebuilding to more accuracy, the extra improvement will not justify the cost and extra complexity.
 
Thank you for the concise explanation.
I have the wide band sensors that are reporting to the LM2 mounted in the exhaust next to the stock narrow band sensors so the temperatures should be close.
I had smoothed ( slowed the reporting) of the 2 AFR lines on the graph for clarity.
I feel that trying to get a power commander set right without a method of observing the results is a waste of time as I have wasted many hours with the pc3 and pc5 in the past and found them to be unstable.
So easy these days to fit the AF-XIED`s and smile. :)
 
Thanks guys. Very helpful. :beerjug:

A mate with an Aprilia with one of these sort of things (not sure who made it) was saying he needed to richen for the winter... Which made me wonder... is it possible if it was fitted / used only in warm weather, the adaptions for cold weather never had time to improve the long term trim. If he'd have just used it for a bit it would probably have sorted itself?

Can you run wide band sensors and if so what changes (nothing? ) is the purpose on WB to allow it to work over a wider range of fueling conditions? (which I guess is helpful for running more extreme use)

Does the LM2 just measure stuff? it doesn't allow you to attack the map (on anything) ? link so people can read what it is https://www.innovatemotorsports.com/products/lm2.php
 
Thanks guys. Very helpful. :beerjug:

A mate with an Aprilia with one of these sort of things (not sure who made it) was saying he needed to richen for the winter... Which made me wonder... is it possible if it was fitted / used only in warm weather, the adaptions for cold weather never had time to improve the long term trim. If he'd have just used it for a bit it would probably have sorted itself?

Can you run wide band sensors and if so what changes (nothing? ) is the purpose on WB to allow it to work over a wider range of fueling conditions? (which I guess is helpful for running more extreme use)

Does the LM2 just measure stuff? it doesn't allow you to attack the map (on anything) ? link so people can read what it is https://www.innovatemotorsports.com/products/lm2.php

I have no knowledge about the Aprilia. But the BMW ECU consider several parameters when calculate the fueling:

Considerations in the equation:
- The throttle position
- RPM
- Ambient air pressure
- Air temperature
- Data from Long term trim (Adaption table)
- Runtime corrections based on feedback from the O2 sensor.

Thus, no need to worry about the need to do anything to compensate for temperature.

Replace the NB O2 sensor with a WB sensor?

Forget it. The sensor operates in a completely different manner.

The NB sensor emits it's own voltage, and the ECU merely monitors this voltage and acts accordingly.

WB sensor does not emit any voltage. It needs a controller that feeds it with a small current, and this current triggers a feedback voltage that will make the controller to change the current, and in addition to the amount of current it also has to produce positive or negative current. The lambda value/AFR is calculated based on the reading of this current.
I will stop my description here, as a detailed description will be rather long....

But it boils down to the need for different hardware and software inside the ECU in order to get the proper feedback from the WB O2 sensor, so it's not a matter of just swapping sensors, unfortunately.
 
Question 3. The Innovate LM2.
The answer is NO, It cannot make changes to the maps or anything else, it is a measuring / data gathering instrument. ( I would not want to mess with the maps, just let the AF-XEID`s manipulate the lambda sensor feedback).
The advantage of the LM2 over a dyno is that ounce the vehicle is set up for it, the LM2 can be used for diagnostics as well as checking AFR at any time.
The data ( up tp 32 channels) on an ECU equipped vehicle can be read from the ecu via the OBD2 connector. ( on a 1200gs using adaptor cable) as well as the AFR in both cylinders.
This data is gathered on the road in real time conditions.
The data is stored on an SD card and can be played back on a PC using Logworks via a graph or a virtual dashboard.
Selected parameters can be viewed on the screen of the LM2 but not easy whilst riding.
Example of diagnostics , My R1200GS at 45K miles started to lose top end power, possible coils breaking down, but easiest to rule out any fueling issue with the LM2.
At full throttle 70mph showing the AFR as lean as 18 to1 ( no wonder folk burn out exhaust valves) . Fitted a fuel pressure gauge and the pressure was low.
In closed loop this would be compensated for but in open loop (full throttle) the lambda sensors are not reporting.
Fitted an aftermarket fuel pump and Golf GTI remote filter ( after bypassing the stock fitted for life !!!! filter) 4 bar fuel pressure and all good.
on non ecu engines you can make up your own 0 - 5 v circuits to measure 4 different parameters, Ie. on the Bing carbs on my airhead and Edelbrock 4 barrel carb on my V8 I have fitted throttle position sensors to plug in to.
I find RPM ( inductive clamp) + throttle position + 2 channels of air fuel ratio give me enough information to set the mixture on these carbs.
 
Not wanting to hijack the thread but I wonder if Beamerboneyard would do a group buy for af-xeid that way the postage and import duty might work out a bit cheaper?
 
Not wanting to hijack the thread but I wonder if Beamerboneyard would do a group buy for af-xeid that way the postage and import duty might work out a bit cheaper?

It is a shame there is not a UK distributor.
Many years ago when I was looking to purchase mine I contacted Jersey Harley Davidson as they were the agents for the AF-XIED`s to fit Harleys but they did not want to know about BMW fitments.
Might be worth a try again now that the BMW market has got established.
I am surprised that Nippy Normans had not picked up on them by now.
 
thanks again guys,

most of what you said makes sense.... ;) I knew 14.7:1 by wt is right for boring stuff, but in reality to accelerate cleanly 13.6:1 is required.

But no idea what BM think they are trying to achieve and when, but its not very clever. So the booster plug bloke claiming closed loop is really only in play after a while once above 4k rpm on a steady throttle... (where the reading is both sufficient quantity and stable enough to interpret and adjust) is not the full picture ???

What I thought I read in the posts just above is, its always in play and tweaking unless on full chat when it doesn't get involved. What tells it to revert to map only the TPM at 100% and why would that be a good idea?
 
Hey Mistacat, ever looked a VGG on youtube.. (vice grip garage) loves his GM V8s,

mostly about starting dumped 30 year old cars and driving home in the winter with no brakes and no heater. Theses days playing with tuning stuff a bit more often. A couple of ones with close to stock parts making 500 brake on a big block with just a cam.... they then put half inch adaptor plate on it and it ran like a total dog.... quite enlightening ! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GHqvyY4i1dw three vids about the build last one with dyno on NA, then he added supercharger with a cheap holley injection thingy and now a new vid with a different holley using multipoint injectionhttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8CG2bu3x0cY
 
well this made a difference....

but not a good one... its at 35k miles and I was doing an oil change and then remembered I can't recollect when last I changed the air filter.... but looking at the mahle one I took out it wasn't bad and must be the third its had (so today its on its forth)…. Also cleaned the AIT with some contact cleaner and let it air dry. Whilst looking in the air box I could see some very light oil misting on the lower half, when I remembered I was going to clean the throttle bodies.

I decided I'd go the lazy way, warmed it up and then lightly sprayed a water meth mix (30%, 50-50 is usual) in the air trumpets inside the air box with a pressurised garden sprayer. Doing it one at a time with it running and wobbling the throttle to keep it alive. I put 5 litres through a 3 ltr diesel in 20 mins a year back and its much happier with life. Allegedly just water will do, it pops off as steam in a lively manner and does a bit of inlet port and valve cleaning to boot. And with the CAT warm hopefully it gets over itself.

The interesting thing on my GS was I got a very different behaviour on each pot. As soon at the left pot got any misting the bike wanted to stall and struggled to stay with it. But the right pot didn't give a stuff and could take loads and the bike just ran cleanly ? Did this on and off for about 5 mins and probably pushed in less than 250ml through. Every time the bike would struggle to run if the left pot got any and the right had almost no impact ? Then I got thinking... the left pot is the one the engine breather is connected to and maybe this side gets much dirtier ?

Strange bit was nothing observable out the exhaust. No steam, odd colours, fumes, smells etc. It wasn't exactly happy after, but with your fist half blocking the massive open airbox inlet it became far happier, and inlet noise becomes normal. Cleaned the AIT again (not that it got wet) Then did a bit of a diagnostic scan in case I'd upset it and found it had no engine issues to clear.

On a run, the bike feels like it reset its adaptions, on a very light throttle 2k just maintaining its speed, it seems clearly less happy (reminding me of how it was when I first got the bike 12 years back on the old map). After warming it up and ripping to death its running the same as it does, but low speed "fueling is clearly dreadful" like it needs to re find a happy set up. Whilst with 35k worth of filth out of the butterflies a carb balance would seem a good idea, I don't think its far out idle is very steady.

Its pretty woeful, I wonder if cleaning the AIT of the barest trace of 35k worth of dust and oil mist is part of why it seems so different down the bottom... but then the whole point of this post is its always been quite dreadful from new?
 
well, its not getting happier, so I wonder if the adaptions had got so upset with what I did, has it gone silly, so I've wiped them again.

Odd, it ran at idle great, runs anywhere above 10% throttle great, and makes sensible power most places. But its almost as if its back on the OLD original map. Between 1800 and 3500 at circa 2% throttle is got moments on nastiness I don't like, coughing now and then like its far too lean, even the instruments now try to fall off at low revs with large throttle opening just like the original map (which with all the playing, it hasn't done like that for about 8 years). And before the throttle pot cleaning those first 200 miles since I took back to std and wiped adaptions, hadn't been as bad as it is now.

So stuck the 911 on it (that wanted to go to 21.04)m as it seems to display big boy stuff like this more easily than the motoscan app (which updated to 1.72 - but he's not shared release notes above 1.7, so unsure what changes he's made since Christmas) that tool since 1.7 now has live data on everything and is supposed to reset adaptions but not found it yet (not really looked for it, if there is not obvious)

The 911 gave the whole bike a clean bill of health... But on the nitty gritty I saw between additive and multiplicative trims a big difference, I thought looked wrong

first lot below about 250 miles since last wipe
lambda voltage 1 - 449.21mV
lambda voltage 2 - 449.21mV
Addative trim bank 1 - 4.03%
Addative trim bank 2 - 3.09%
Mulitplacative trim bank 1 - 0.91
Mulitplacative trim bank 2 - 0.92

thinking addative above at 3 - 4 % seemed odd, reset again, started the bike and started off at this

Temp cyl 1 - 108.8C
Temp cyl 2 - 108.8C
knock cyl 1 - 20.74v
knock cyl 2 - 16.76v
lambda voltage 1 - 761.71mV
lambda voltage 2 - 800.77mV
Addative trim bank 1 - 0.09%
Addative trim bank 2 - 0.00%
Mulitplacative trim bank 1 - 0.92
Mulitplacative trim bank 2 - 0.93
Injection time 2.29ms

ran through all gears like it says - after 3 mins or so got this (does anything stand out as odd?)

Temp cyl 1 - 110.3C
Temp cyl 2 - as above
knock cyl 1 - 21.52v
knock cyl 2 - 19.00v
lambda voltage 1 - 156.25mV
lambda voltage 2 - 175.78mV
Addative trim bank 1 - 3.14%
Addative trim bank 2 - 1.5%
Mulitplacative trim bank 1 - 0.91
Mulitplacative trim bank 2 - 0.94
Injection time 2.10ms

on a trend of each lambda thing, both jump up and down rich lean in fairly steady manner, mostly down to 200 and up to just over 800, at 1190 rpm. The high end is very consistent 810 or so, lower has odd occasion down to 80
 


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