I think iceland has done me four times. Twice with a GSA and twice with KTM790R.
I have very little off road capability but am getting very skilled at picking my bike back up.
With the GSA there were some tracks that I thought were not GS suitable, primarily because of weight. In some cases, I was proven wrong when Viv took his GS to the top of a glacier whilst fully loaded with everything the camping store could sell him including a family tent, pontoon/missile launchers and, I suspect, a washing machine.
Ridden well, the GS managed everything but slower than the KTMs, required a great rider ( like Viv). I suspect there were some tracks Tim didn’t take us to as looks at the bikes and riders he is constantly monitoring weather and surfaces.
The GS enables you to overload the bike. Each time I’ve been I’ve halved the crap I took and this weekend have been cleaning used kit and putting away all the stuff I took that I didn’t use.
On the GS the rider needs to understand the ABS modes, suspension settings, tyres and correct pressure. The switches on the GS being canbus mean you have to carry appropriate spares.
I got the 790 as I’m overweight and a 500 or 690 would make me look like an elephant on a tricycle. The 790R is very different to the 690 and 500. The electronics are a distraction, albeit very clever stuff, it was easier to leave it in off-road or Rally mode and concentrate on the ride not the bike.
On the last trip a rider with a 790 hit a rut and his wheel rim was badly damaged. Not sure the wheels are as strong as they could be. Seems a bit odd KTM charge more for a stronger wheel.
The front suspension ( WR) on the R is good, but to be honest wish I’d invested time reading the manual and setting it up properly beforehand.
The display is basic and not all of the information Id want on the screen when riding is on the same screen.
SatNav is the Nav6 on an aftermarket bracket. The vibration is excessive and bolts need changing if you want to keep the sat nav in the tradition location attached to the bike.
I have the clutchless gear change, not sure I like it, I tend to just use the clutch.
I use the screen from the S model as the low screen affords zero wind protection and the terrain didn’t include steep climbs with a risk of going over the top.
Tyres were changed to TKC80
and Mitas E08 both survived the trip but the rear needs replacing. The rear was not new on this trip and I regret that.
The rally pegs are a must as the stock as too small.
The touratech rack is as you’d expect and holds the Mosko Moto luggage solid. I have a Touratech toolbox on the rack. It the type from a GS but can be fitted.
The rear rack is an expensive setup and with the Mosko moto duffle not sure its worth it.
The 790 was great on road, capable on gravel and tracks, and tried to kill me on wet clay and soft black sand.
Was good in rivers but I choose not to do some of the river crossings as when the water passes the mans parts and the exhaust is burbling I worry about the restarting a stopped bike. Something the 690 and 500 can do, something I wouldn’t risk.
Ride modes are relevant and the bike is predictable. If you buy a 790 you need to find a field and discover what the modes are doing and then choose one. Changing it mid ride, as Iceland is rushing towards you, isn’t and a good route.
Edit: the Mosko Moto stuff is good, but if anything goes wrong with it you have to send it to Rotterdam’s your own cost.