WR250R brake fluid change problem

denny

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Been giving the WRR some TLC lately since its been in storage for nearly 2 years. I've got a set of Warp9 SM rims so I upgraded the rotor to a 320mm with new pads then attempted to change the fluids and hoses to braided lines. I've installed pads and discs before but this is the first time I've touched brake fluid/hoses.

I drained the front reservoir using a syringe and did the pump/crack open bleed nipple method until dry. Fitted hoses, torqued banjo bolts, filled reservoir but had to pump LOADS until fluid came out of the bleed nipple. Did the pump hold crack bleed nipple until there were no more bubbles passing through & tightened her up. Reservoir is topped up but lever is totally limp with no movement on pads. Same happened on rear. Had a look online for tips, tried opening top banjo bolt to release air...no air just some fluid seeped out. Also tried forcing fluid into caliper via bleed nipple using a syringe, no joy. What am I doing wrong?? :confused:
 
There is probably an air lock in the master cyl piston.
With the bleed screw tight,try working the master cyl throu the 1st 1/4 of its travel multiple times.
If you watch the fluid in the reservoir you will see the air coming up through the cylinder fill orifice.
Been doing it this way for over 30 years.:thumb
 
I do it by pushing fluid from the calliper to the master cylinder. You need two syringes, one to pump in and one to remove excess fluid fro the master cylinder. Once theres no air coming out from the master cylinder close the nipple and as mikeyboy says, slowly pull the brake lever with the bars slightly turn left so that the master cylinder is higher than the brake line. Do not allow the hole in the bottom of the master cylinder to be exposed at anytime. Pump the lever several times or until you no longer see and have removed any air trapped in and around the piston. Used this method on trials bikes brakes and clutches dozens of times and it worked every time.
 
There is probably an air lock in the master cyl piston.
With the bleed screw tight,try working the master cyl throu the 1st 1/4 of its travel multiple times.
If you watch the fluid in the reservoir you will see the air coming up through the cylinder fill orifice.
Been doing it this way for over 30 years.:thumb

Unless I'm doing it wrong, no bubbles appeared :nenau

jj65 - will attempt your suggestion next :thumb2
 
Problem solved. Saw a guy on youtube pulling lever all the way back and holding it in position overnight with a zip tie. Did same this morning came back from work to find a functioning brake
 


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