ABS unit removal time to fix intermittent brushes

NeilH · Dec 29, 2020

So the old girl is underdressed, petrol tank off, electrics unplugged and the 3 securing bolts removed leaving the 4 hydraulic brake lines to undo.

The 2 outer break lines are 12mm and the 2 inner ones are 11mm. So after using penetrating oil I have managed to undo 3 out of the 4

I am using an 11mm and 12mm crows foot spanner to gain maximum tight fitting, 2 out of the 4 where easy, one 11mm challenging but OK. The 12mm on the end for the rear brake line (Air filter side), will, if I carry on round the nut, a place where we don't want to go.

I can think of 3 options to go forward but before I dive in lets see what you have to say.

1. Cut the brake line and then use an adjustable wrench because you have all the space in the world to work with (means replacing the brake line - not my first option)
2. Apply heat - Am i likely to damage anything internally in the ABS if I do this ? (My first option)
3. Get a center punch and try and gently tap it and hopefully release it (Tight working space - won't be easy)

On this last 12mm nut there is very slight play using the crow foot and sadly just enough that it would slip and start to round the edges.

I have also tried gently tapping the nut to help free it up!

What approach would you take?

Bin Ridin · Dec 29, 2020

Kettle of boiling water poured slowly over the nut and housing will get some heat without damage risk, might be enough..
Give crow-foot a squeeze with vise-grips to see if you can tighten the fit to "press-on" ...

theoneandonly · Dec 29, 2020

get a flare nut spanner , better than a crows foot. thicker= less "give" .

JohnnyBoxer · Dec 29, 2020

Boiling hot water straight from the kettle is a good tip

Worked for me a few times to ‘break’ corrosion on fasteners

NeilH · Dec 29, 2020

Boiling hot water and an attempt at closing or tightening the crow-foot with grips didn't work for me.

Flare nut spanner I don't have, so that I'll have to source.

NeilH · Dec 29, 2020

Managed to get out and buy a 12mm flare nut spanner but this also has the same amount of play as the crow-foot, so this is not looking very promising. At least this time i remembered to bring the kettle back into the house!

Bin Ridin · Dec 29, 2020

Any chance you could slit a good ringspanner to fit over the pipe onto the nut?

dean0n0 · Dec 29, 2020

Bin Ridin said:
Any chance you could slit a good ringspanner to fit over the pipe onto the nut?

Ringers don't have the strength and will spread.

NeilH · Dec 30, 2020

Managed to get the ABS unit out with the brake line still attached :beerjug:

not to easy, I could probably have done with 2 hands.

So this presents new options, either I leave the brake line attached perform the fix and put it all back or I attempt to remove the brake line and replace it.
Next step will be to clean to unit and cover the holes to stop any rubbish getting in before I remove the motor.

alanbmwgs · Dec 30, 2020

Should you need another ABS unit I have a 100% working one from my 2002 1150 GS. Also all brake lines, all mint condition. :rob

All Professionally removed.

NeilH · Dec 30, 2020

ABS Progress - Motor Separated from main unit

The brake line thread is pretty messed up, so for now I have left it alone.

I have cut the tabs holding the motor in place and now separated it from the main unit. :beerjug:

Next is to find some drill bit and a drill or my press drill. As I've returned back to the UK after 30 years posted abroad I'm actually in a rental. So I have a bedroom full of boxes and the drill bits and drill are in one of them!

The R1150GS ABS is very different but thank you for the offer. I'm still on the lookout for a R1150GS as I miss mine but trying to hold of the urge at least until I buy a house with a garage.

Bin Ridin · Dec 30, 2020

That nut looks very dry, can you spray it with something like WD40 or better if available? Can you thread a ring spanner over the pipe now it is disconnected?

NeilH · Dec 30, 2020

Its actually been soaked in penetrating oil for a few days, I have just cleaned it up a bit. A ring spanner does go on by the nut is so soft it just rounds the nut. I'll put more oil on and leave it for a few more days while I take the motor apart. I might take a small wire brush to it as well.

NeilH · Dec 30, 2020

ABS motor open

So I've managed to open up the motor now and free the brushes.

I took great care in drilling the holes as not to break the tabs, I then used a small round file to help open up the holes, then using computer casing screws opened the case.

I still broke the tabs, I screwed in the computer screw too far

. I then wrapped the shaft with some fabric and gripped it using grips and it came out with ease.

I'll try and get some electric cleaner, I'm not sure I want to try and take the bearing off, there is no space between the bearing and the case, but I'm open to suggestions how to get the bearing of with out damaging anything. I don't have a bearing puller or separator. It would be nice to be able to perhaps "sand down" the brushes to perhaps make them a lose fit.

ABS unit removal time to fix intermittent brushes

NeilH

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Bin Ridin

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theoneandonly

looking over the edge

JohnnyBoxer

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NeilH

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NeilH

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Bin Ridin

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dean0n0

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NeilH

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alanbmwgs

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Bin Ridin

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