Mototuning Rathcoole

neiljitsu

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Hello chaps,

I got my 12 twin cam remapped by Gary in mototuning. The results were amazing. The bike pulls so much better from everywhere and roll on acceleration is excellent for overtaking. I'm delighted with it I can highly recommend it.
He even collected and returned the bike, sent me video footage of the dyno runs and gave me detailed print outs of before and after. A top job.
 
I dropped my Crosstourer down to him this morning..........looking forward to getting it back

S20 5G sent this......
 
Hi stranger! Still with the Honda then. I see he does a postal service for the ECU. Does he take the gear restrictions off and what does he charge? Thinking of getting the F done.
 
€500 for full remapping and dyno time with collection. I think ecu only is €350
 
comberjohn said:
Hi stranger! Still with the Honda then. I see he does a postal service for the ECU. Does he take the gear restrictions off and what does he charge? Thinking of getting the F done.
Click to expand...
Howya John!!

I'm leaving the restriction on 1st but removing it from second (and removing the top speed limit in 6th)

Yes he can do all of that. My bike was requested in by them to help problem solve another lads bike which is running really poorly........so while it was going to be in there, on the rollers, I thought......why not!?!
(when in Rathcoole.....)

We must meet for a coffee and a natter half way up when things ease up a little.

S20 5G sent this......
 
Had my 08 gsa done with Garry when I fitted the catless header amazing difference( well over the Htop map I’d previously had)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Dropped him an email and he says he has a couple of Crosstourer DCT's and a manual F at the moment. He's going to get back to me when he gets a look at them on the dyno.
Getting it on the dyno would be nice but could be a month or two before the Garda let me go down there! So may just post the ECU down. £300 would be a good price. Hilltop used to gave you bugger all discount for posting the ECU to them.
I have a Lamda sensor modifier on my F and it works well taking the 'hole' out of the power at 3k rpm. What I'm trying to cure is the slight hesitation moving off from tickover on the DCT. With the weight and narrow bars, I'm having too many of those 'Oh shit' moments and have even been thinking of something lighter.
But for that kind of money, I can't find anything with shaft drive, full luggage, awesome performance, and DCT!
Be nice to get out again soon and loading the Irish Photo Rally points into the Garmin. Getting my second jab in four weeks. One of the advantages of being old! (65)
 
comberjohn said:
Dropped him an email and he says he has a couple of Crosstourer DCT's and a manual F at the moment. He's going to get back to me when he gets a look at them on the dyno.
Getting it on the dyno would be nice but could be a month or two before the Garda let me go down there! So may just post the ECU down. £300 would be a good price. Hilltop used to gave you bugger all discount for posting the ECU to them.
I have a Lamda sensor modifier on my F and it works well taking the 'hole' out of the power at 3k rpm. What I'm trying to cure is the slight hesitation moving off from tickover on the DCT. With the weight and narrow bars, I'm having too many of those 'Oh shit' moments and have even been thinking of something lighter.
But for that kind of money, I can't find anything with shaft drive, full luggage, awesome performance, and DCT!
Be nice to get out again soon and loading the Irish Photo Rally points into the Garmin. Getting my second jab in four weeks. One of the advantages of being old! (65)
Click to expand...

Yeah, one of those Crosstourers is mine!! It was on the rollers this afternoon (102 at the back wheel..........dissapointing) and the magic is happening tomorrow. Fingers crossed.
 
With regards to the Garda "letting you down"........I drove (for work) from Naas to Dingle to Killorglin to Killarney to Kanturk to Charleville and back to Naas on Wednesday.......not one checkpoint!!!!!

You could tell them the bike needs to go to M50 Honda for fault finding from a job that they botched........or pick a graveyard from Google from Dundalk and maybe Drogheda and tell them (if you are stopped) that you are visiting poor Aunty Mazy
 
+1 from me for Gary in mototuning. Really friendly and reliable guy to deal with and he really knows his stuff too. I've had two of my SV1000's in with him as well as the GS and they've come back to me much improved every time. :thumb
 
I thought a DCT couldn’t be dyno’d because the software won’t allow it to shift gear due to the massive speed difference between the front wheel , as it’s stationary, and the rear wheel?
 
If you make a booking with Mototuning, you'll have an email proving you are travelling for mechanical repairs. No issues.

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
 
Hatcho said:
+1 from me for Gary in mototuning. Really friendly and reliable guy to deal with and he really knows his stuff too. I've had two of my SV1000's in with him as well as the GS and they've come back to me much improved every time. :thumb
Click to expand...

What did your bike make on his dyno? Was there much pick up in the midrange? I'm picking up a lc adventure this week with akra can and headers.
 
You're sort of correct, Rushy. If you put it into drive on the center stand, the back wheel turns and it's impossible to put it back into neutral without stopping it with the rear brake. So no automatic gear changes. But I would imagine that you would put it into manual and change up and down through the gears with the flappy paddles for a Dyno run. Same as a manual bike.
 
Sounds about right, Keith. Crosstourer puts out about 130bhp at the crank. Transmission losses with shaft drive are around 15% so around 20bhp lost by the time it gets to the back wheel. The extra mechanicals in the DCT transmission could shave a few more bhp off, too. My F would put out around 148 bhp at the back wheel from what I've read. That's down from 173 bhp at the crank.
Couple of other things to remember.
Any Dyno will not give you an accurate reading of power output to the last bhp. It's more of a before and after comparison after, say, a reflash.
Unless you have done work on cams, pistons, exhausts, etc. your peak power may not change that much. A reflash is more about improving driveability. It'll pull strongly through the revs and feels more powerful but may still show under 110 bhp at the back wheel. But it will feel much better to ride!
Any news about it yet?
 
comberjohn said:
Sounds about right, Keith. Crosstourer puts out about 130bhp at the crank. Transmission losses with shaft drive are around 15% so around 20bhp lost by the time it gets to the back wheel. The extra mechanicals in the DCT transmission could shave a few more bhp off, too. My F would put out around 148 bhp at the back wheel from what I've read. That's down from 173 bhp at the crank.
Couple of other things to remember.
Any Dyno will not give you an accurate reading of power output to the last bhp. It's more of a before and after comparison after, say, a reflash.
Unless you have done work on cams, pistons, exhausts, etc. your peak power may not change that much. A reflash is more about improving driveability. It'll pull strongly through the revs and feels more powerful but may still show under 110 bhp at the back wheel. But it will feel much better to ride!
Any news about it yet?
Click to expand...
Should be getting it back on Tuesday.......I'll report back on Wednesday after thrashing it for a few hours

From what I'm told......the official Honda software (which he has) allows him to put it into some sort of a "test" mode......which allows dyno work.

S20 5G sent this......
 
comberjohn said:
You're sort of correct, Rushy. If you put it into drive on the center stand, the back wheel turns and it's impossible to put it back into neutral without stopping it with the rear brake. So no automatic gear changes. But I would imagine that you would put it into manual and change up and down through the gears with the flappy paddles for a Dyno run. Same as a manual bike.
Click to expand...

Even in manual it still won’t shift on a dyno , the front wheel sensor is telling the ECU it’s not moving. There was something I read once about somehow connecting the front sensor to the rear sensor so the ecu is getting the same signal from both wheels but it sounded like a load of hassle and I doubt this guy is doing that. I remember reading on a VFR forum that Honda had said there wasn’t a way of getting round it but that was years ago so maybe there is a work around now :thumb
 
He normally videos the Dyno runs for the customer and social media (if allowed)
If I get the video, I'll send it to you.

He told me there is 2 ways of doing it.......the lead method for the sensor......and with software. He said he'll be using the latter.

S20 5G sent this......
 
younger06 said:
He normally videos the Dyno runs for the customer and social media (if allowed)
If I get the video, I'll send it to you.

He told me there is 2 ways of doing it.......the lead method for the sensor......and with software. He said he'll be using the latter.

S20 5G sent this......
Click to expand...

:thumb I figured he wouldn’t use that lead method , it definitely sounded like a bit of a PITA.
 
I'm like a child trying to go to bed on Xmas eve......


Hopefully picking it up tomorrow afternoon.

Paddy's Day is a Bank Holiday in Ireland and the weather is to be good (well.....less bad)

S20 5G sent this......
 
Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
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