Cutting out intermittently when pulling clutch in

adventuredon · Mar 16, 2021

Hi, as per title
1150R, bike serviced 800 miles ago, new hall sensor
Bike runs fine, mostly. Warmed up bike. No rain. Yesterday once and then twice today (and a few times last year before service -no fault replicated) while moving but slowing down in traffic (say 15 miles/h) bike just cuts out exactly as the clutch is pulled in. Straight line more or less. Starts straight away whilst still rolling forward. realise it must be electrical, but does the clutch cable actually move near any cables? Or is it hung the wire time? No signs of when or why but it just cuts.
Idles fine.

RedRick Esq. · Mar 16, 2021

Running too lean ??

DrFarkoff · Mar 16, 2021

What is your tickover RPM set at and is the bike up to working temp when it does this stall thing 1050 plus or minus 50 rpm is the Workshop setting

IT may be just not warmed up and too cold and over rich (a little bit of fast idle needed to allow enough air in to burn off the excess fuel)

Also Check where the cable passes along the fairing steady to the clocks

Bad earth nodes are well known and can trigger this

When we did Aidan1150's Clutch this had me flummoxed until Steptoe gave us the heads up

There are 3 or 4 common earth points in that part of the loom from the headstock to the clocks and they can get heavily corroded and the earth pathway changes

If you look in the dark you may see glowing warning lights that should not be on

adventuredon · Mar 16, 2021

42mpg, choke needed in morning. Happens only when warm so far, definitely warm bike. Mikeboy serviced 800 miles ago so all good. yes RPM is butting 1100 at a push. more likely 1075..seems fine/normal when stopped. The first time today I veered left, so ever so slight left turn in to hide behind a car, but does sound about right what you're saying. Will have a gander but in all likelihood it'll be the mechanic down the road who'll get tasked with it. But forewarned is forearmed. Ta

DrFarkoff · Mar 16, 2021

adventuredon said:
42mpg, choke needed in morning. Happens only when warm so far, definitely warm bike. Mikeboy serviced 800 miles ago so all good. yes RPM is butting 1100 at a push. more likely 1075..seems fine/normal when stopped. The first time today I veered left, so ever so slight left turn in to hide behind a car, but does sound about right what you're saying. Will have a gander but in all likelihood it'll be the mechanic down the road who'll get tasked with it. But forewarned is forearmed. Ta

Worth checking your warning lamps in the dark and double checking

Its a simple enough thing If you can feel down the tape you will feel a bit where several wires come together

If you split the tape and see multiple brown wires joining that is an Earth node

And if they are green / blue with Verdigris then you have a corroded earth node

They are crimped in one big clip which leaves the ends exposed

ALSO very worth checking with the ignition on and wiggling the ignition switch loom and turning the handlebars and applying the clutch if the dash goes out ?

N.B.

but does the clutch cable actually move near any cables?

1150R should be a Hydraulic clutch ?

adventuredon · Mar 16, 2021

brilliant thanks, this I can do. Will report back. Weird how it only happens under steam though. Anyhow, ill post back. Thank you

Colin · Mar 16, 2021

could it be the electrical switch on the clutch lever that works in conjunction with the sidestand switch.

donkeydoo · Mar 17, 2021

Not sure that the 1150 has one of these but had similar thing on my 1100 the other year and it turned out to be the clutch brake switch

DrFarkoff · Mar 17, 2021

donkeydoo said:
Not sure that the 1150 has one of these but had similar thing on my 1100 the other year and it turned out to be the clutch brake switch

Trying to figure that one out?

Unless you have another issue? The clutch switch should not influence the engine once moving

adventuredon · Mar 17, 2021

Ok waggled the bars, moved wires,fiddled this morning and no issue. On ride to work in a straight line at 10mph pulled in clutch and it cut out. Always when clutch is used so there must be something that happens on the bars, wire wise when clutch pulled. Mmm

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DrFarkoff · Mar 17, 2021

Don how far from home ??

Was the engine well warmed up ??

Clutch switch / neutral light / dodgy earth, Possibly is my thought But without having my mitts on it to check stuff I am sort of guessing how long is that bit of string!

Ian J Hartley · Mar 17, 2021

Could it be the clutch switch.?

Or

The clutch hose chaffing on something once pressurised.?

The fact that this is an intermittent fault leans me towards the hydraulic hose chaffing on a critical wire somewhere along it’s route. Most probably down near the side stand and gear switch harnesses.

It is possible to disconnect the clutch switch. The connector is under the tank. Two pin connector with a brown and a brown/black wires.

Disconnecting the clutch switch would require you to understand the bikes starting characteristics. The push button start in gear will no longer be available. All push button starts would need to be from neutral.

So if the bike still does it after disconnecting the clutch switch, then look for a chafed wire along your hose routing.

adventuredon · Mar 17, 2021

12 miles. Traffic and m way. 40 minutes riding. JJ. Sounds about right. It always happens in or near traffic so I think it’s along those lines. Foot not near side stand really

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DrFarkoff · Mar 17, 2021

adventuredon said:
12 miles. Traffic and m way. 40 minutes riding. JJ. Sounds about right. It always happens in or near traffic so I think it’s along those lines. Foot not near side stand really

Sounds like it was hot enough all right

Even if your foot as near the sidestand, with the clutch lever pulled in?

I "THINK" It allows the engine to run with the sidestand down, Clutch pulled in and in gear But its been a while

Was it wet by any chance where you are today ??

Moisture is a good clue

adventuredon · Mar 17, 2021

No it was dry. Bike is also under a cover when parked overnight so when it originally happened it was raining, but thinking about it and that it only happens when slow moving and trafficky, there would have been more traffic in the wet/winter months esp on the south circular. With regards to disconnecting the connector under the tank, if it does cut out it'll need to be put in neutral before restarting and if rolling forward in traffic that might just get 1 step too near a rear bump given the slow speeds and narrow gaps when commuting and diving behind cars etc. I guess I could put it on centre stand and run in gear and keep actuating clutch to get it to stall, but then it might overheat? Otherwise disconnect switch and try riding around on a sunday on quiet streets...

Jimjam72 · Mar 26, 2021

Hi all, keeping an eye on this as I’ve got exactly the same issue on my ‘08 1200. Pulling up to junctions the engine will stall if I pull the clutch in too quickly and take the revs off.... I can ‘manage’ the issue by keep the throttle open slightly to increase idling revs until the bike comes to a standstill but obviously doesn’t fix the problem.

Steptoe · Mar 26, 2021

Jimjam72 said:
Hi all, keeping an eye on this as I’ve got exactly the same issue on my ‘08 1200. Pulling up to junctions the engine will stall if I pull the clutch in too quickly and take the revs off.... I can ‘manage’ the issue by keep the throttle open slightly to increase idling revs until the bike comes to a standstill but obviously doesn’t fix the problem.

Sounds like the usual twin spark/1200 problem - your main coil caps. To test pull off the lower secondary spark plug caps and see if it starts and runs on only the main plugs.

Jimjam72 · Mar 26, 2021

I’ll give it a go, thanks Steptoe

Jimjam72 · Mar 26, 2021

Steptoe said:
Sounds like the usual twin spark/1200 problem - your main coil caps. To test pull off the lower secondary spark plug caps and see if it starts and runs on only the main plugs.

By the way, is the fix for this issue to replace the spark plugs?

hops · Mar 26, 2021

Jimjam72 said:
By the way, is the fix for this issue to replace the spark plugs?

No, the caps that go onto the main spark plugs are usually the culprit. Yours may look slightly different to the photo but this is the bit you’ll most likely need if Steptoe’s educated guess is right. I believe there are companies that do replacements much cheaper than your main dealer so shout up if you are looking to buy a replacement, or 2.

Cutting out intermittently when pulling clutch in

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