Fried my Motronic! Experts (e.g. Roger04RT, Ian J Hartley) input welcome!

Cook1e

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The bike (R1150GS, 2001, ABS removed and Power Commander III Wideband fitted/dynoed years ago) has been laid up since about November, when I put it up on the bench to replace the rear brake light switch. The rusty subframe caught my attention and I've had the arse-end of the bike stripped down to de-rust and re-paint it.

During the winter months, progress was slow and I charged the battery from time-to-time and started the engine a couple of times. Nothing electrical was disturbed apart from removing the tank and the rear lights wiring. The bike had been running perfectly prior to the lay-up.

A few days ago, I finished the work, re-assembled everything and started the bike on the bench. All seemed fine, so I backed it out of the garage, put it on the side-stand and went to get my boots & helmet etc. for a test-ride.

I got my leg over and tried to start the bike. Nothing happened apart from the normal fuel-pump prime and just a click when I pressed the starter, but then the rev-counter went up to about 2,000 rpm and stayed there. Same again when I switched off and tried again and I noticed that the rev-counter went to about 2,500 with the starter button pressed and returned to 2,000 when the button was released. The clock also reset to 00:00.

Copious foul language ensued, and I removed my riding gear, pushed the bike back onto the bench, put the battery on charge and went indoors for a drink and a think. :confused:

The following morning, I tried again and the bike started reluctantly, so I went for a ride. Although it had revved freely in neutral, under load it was surging really badly (I was nearly spat off!), as if the ignition was being cut for a split-second every few seconds when the throttle was opened. Nothing out of the ordinary on the dashboard though, rev-counter etc. reading normally.

Back to the bench, where I checked the obvious:
- throttle cable seating
- plugs & leads OK
- changed the fuel for fresh
- side-stand and clutch switches OK
- fuel pump priming and running normally
- fuel tank electrical connector OK
- removed, cleaned, refitted and re-balanced the brass mixture screws (these were fairly shitty, so I had high hopes)

I also fitted the Power Commmander mixture gauge (analogue dial which connects to the PC module and displays air:fuel ratio), in the hope this would provide diagnostic information and went for another test-ride.

Still the same. :blast The PC gauge flicked between a rich 11%-ish (engine still cold of course) and 18% (maximum lean) when the surging happened.

Searching this forum, I learned that a dodgy TPS may cause these symptoms, so I checked the voltage (pin 1 to pin 4 and pin 1 to frame earth). It was all over the place, between 0 and nearly 5 volts! Aha! Problem solved, I thought.

Nope. :blast

Having disconnected the Motronic connector to get at the pins and stripped the tape off parts of the wiring loom to check the connectors and those supposedly trouble-prone bundled earth connectors, everything checked out fine and testing the resistance of the TPS at idle & full throttle, everything checked out fine. I did notice that pin 4 of the TPS doesn't go to earth as I would have guessed, but to pin 22 of the Motronic, along with the 'earthy' ends of the oil and air-temparuture sensors (circuit snip attached below).

So all I can conclude is that, during the failed start, where the engine didn't turn over, but the rev-counter indicated 2,000 rpm, the Motronic fried itself, resulting in the weird voltage readings on the TPS. I don't know why this happened, but I'm going to check the battery, earth and starter connections as the symptoms were like a flat battery, except it had started OK 10 minutes previously.

All comments and questions welcome - in the absence of other plausible explanations, I'm going to phone MotorWorks tomorrow to price up a replacement Motronic :eek:
 

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It doesn’t fit with all of the symptoms you’ve had but some are symptomatic of hall sensor failure. Might be worth trying to see if anyone near you has a spare you could try before shelling out on a Motronic unit.
 
Thanks hops, I considered Hall sensors, but I don't think symptoms are consistent. Also, I don't think Hall sensor failure would cause the wild TPS voltage readings.

Happy to be told I'm wrong though, as you say it may be cheaper :)
 
HES failure..... lets hope you've not introduced any more problems while randomly flailing around in an attempt at diagnosing the cause :D
 
HES failure..... lets hope you've not introduced any more problems while randomly flailing around in an attempt at diagnosing the cause :D

Somewhat to the point but Yes I think he has something there you know

Oh and P.S.

Don;t fuck about with the sparkplugs while the ignition is on

I learned to dance like Michael Jackson in my early days (In my defence! It was not just HES problems with Tuned in's bike!)
 
I wasn't 'randomly flailing around', but following systematic diagnostic processes :p

How would Hall sensor failure explain the TPS voltage readings?
 
Thanks Steptoe and Dr Farkoff, please check my logic though:

From what I read searching this forum, HES failure is typified by a failure to rev from tickover and being worse on a warm engine. The bike revs freely on the bench and the symptoms of surging are there from cold - the engine never had chance to get above 1 or 2 bars on the gauge.

How about the weird TPS voltage readings?

Don't get me wrong, I'd rather it was the HES than the Motronic, but I don't want to end up buying both...
 
Also, I just checked prices - I wonder if I can get the Motronic on sale or return?
 

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How about the weird TPS voltage readings?

Don't get me wrong, I'd rather it was the HES than the Motronic, but I don't want to end up buying both...

At the age of your bike HES? it's a very sensible purchase

You say pin 4 on HES ?

You mean the rearmost pin with the red wire ? Its the one that you use to set the TPS and basically tells the ECU the throttle angle

Someone will be around with an electronics explanation "BUT"

the ECU is just a big calculator to inject fuel of a given volume at a certain time whilst taking into account Engine temp and air temp and Rpm and of course throttle angle :aidan

They are REALLY robust in these old buses You would have to stick 240V though them to kill them Or just loads of moisture
 
Thanks Dr F - I tried measuring the TPS voltage between pin 1 (red/white wire) and either pin 4 (brown wire) or frame ground/battery negative.

The former measures around zero (0-20mv) and the latter measures around 4.8 volts.
 
Also, I just checked prices - I wonder if I can get the Motronic on sale or return?

Nope because its an Electronic item

And Don;t get a used one!

How old is it ?? ;)

get a new one and be confident in it BUt as a word of warning

Keep a Good BAttery in the bike and IF the battery is slow and the engine struggles to spin over??

Immediately stop holding the starter button down!!! You are causing Current surges/voltage spikes and they, apart from bad insulation are a common killer of HES
 
Thanks Dr F - I tried measuring the TPS voltage between pin 1 (red/white wire) and either pin 4 (brown wire) or frame ground/battery negative.

The former measures around zero (0-20mv) and the latter measures around 4.8 volts.

from the rear most pin to battery ground!

you want to see about 0.38 ~ 0.4 volts with the fast idle lever in the off position
 
Nope because its an Electronic item

And Don;t get a used one!

How old is it ?? ;)

get a new one and be confident in it BUt as a word of warning

Keep a Good BAttery in the bike and IF the battery is slow and the engine struggles to spin over??

Immediately stop holding the starter button down!!! You are causing Current surges/voltage spikes and they, apart from bad insulation are a common killer of HES

I don't think new Motronics are available. Even if they were, I would guess a 4-figure price.

You're right about voltage spikes - but I think it's fried the Motronic. Or maybe both the Motronic and the HES 😭
 
I’m kind of leaning towards maybe two faults here. The first one with the bike not starting.

You said when you pressed the start button you heard a click and the Rev counter rose. Was the click a faint click coming from the started relay, or more like a clunk coming from the starter motor. If it’s coming from the starter motor, with no rotation and clock reset. It could be either a poor battery or a short across the starter motor. The latter would give a huge current spike, which isn’t good.

The symptoms of a detached grease plate within the starter motor which is shorting across the windings, can be normal good starts, with no problem and then the starter rotates so the grease plate then become a short. You press the button. All you get is a clunk and clock zero and maybe other stuff as there is a large current surge. But the starter motor may turn slightly each time, until the grease plate is no longer in a position to create that short, and you press the start button and the starter turns and starts the engine. It’s a random thing.

The running issue looks to all the world like a HES problem. So I’ll not dwell there.

However, you say you’ve had the back of the bike apart. Can you check that the loose connector (tank breather valve) that is normally strapped to the frame right hand side hasn’t been damaged in some way. You sat on the bike wiggling about with a trapped damaged connector or wiring and the voltage to your injectors, fuel pump, lambda sensor which are all connected could be getting spiked. It’s also where your power commander gets its power feed.

Good luck
Ian
 
Hi Ian, it's a complex thing, but I'm leaning towards the Motronic (possibly HES also though), because of the weird TPS voltage readings. Answers to your points below:

I’m kind of leaning towards maybe two faults here. The first one with the bike not starting.

You said when you pressed the start button you heard a click and the Rev counter rose. Was the click a faint click coming from the started relay, or more like a clunk coming from the starter motor. If it’s coming from the starter motor, with no rotation and clock reset. It could be either a poor battery or a short across the starter motor. The latter would give a huge current spike, which isn’t good.
I think a current/voltage spike is what killed it, yes.

The symptoms of a detached grease plate within the starter motor which is shorting across the windings, can be normal good starts, with no problem and then the starter rotates so the grease plate then become a short. You press the button. All you get is a clunk and clock zero and maybe other stuff as there is a large current surge. But the starter motor may turn slightly each time, until the grease plate is no longer in a position to create that short, and you press the start button and the starter turns and starts the engine. It’s a random thing.

The bad start was a one-off. Afterwards the bike started, though a bit reluctantly, though it turns over OK. I think it may have been an intermittent bad earth or battery connection. It's not repeated, but the running fault occured afterwards.

The running issue looks to all the world like a HES problem. So I’ll not dwell there.
You (and the others) may be right, but I'm not wholly convinced. The bike revs well enough in neutral, the surging only occurs under load.

However, you say you’ve had the back of the bike apart. Can you check that the loose connector (tank breather valve) that is normally strapped to the frame right hand side hasn’t been damaged in some way. You sat on the bike wiggling about with a trapped damaged connector or wiring and the voltage to your injectors, fuel pump, lambda sensor which are all connected could be getting spiked. It’s also where your power commander gets its power feed.
This was my first thought, but I've been through all the connectors and wires, but found nothing untoward.

Good luck
Thanks :)
Ian
 
That's the very problem - I'm seeing nearly 5 volts!

Are you sure you are on DC scale ??

And have you tried adjusting it down to 0.38 ~ 0.4 volt??

I think that it may be user error rather than system error because It would likely not run at that value
 
Try removing fuse 5 for a while and allow the Motronic to reset.

Not saying it will have any affect, but it will do no harm.

Then check your TPS voltages again. 5v across pins 1 and 4 is the TPS at maximum range which you would see with an open throttle.
 
Are you sure you are on DC scale ??

And have you tried adjusting it down to 0.38 ~ 0.4 volt??

I think that it may be user error rather than system error because It would likely not run at that value

Try removing fuse 5 for a while and allow the Motronic to reset.

Not saying it will have any affect, but it will do no harm.

Then check your TPS voltages again. 5v across pins 1 and 4 is the TPS at maximum range which you would see with an open throttle.

AH yes Cookie please note that Ian is talking Pin one to pin 4

and I am talking Rearmost pin to battery ground as you set teh TPS

Ian it would not be unknown for a clodhopper Tosser to kick the TPS out of place and to FSD
 
Unplug the TPS and see if the bike will start and run. It should do using the motronic in built fixed values.

:nenau
 


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