Failing/Failed HT lead

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adventuredon

adventuredon

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bike strated popping and running rough on way to work on Friday. Got home. Mechanic has looked at it and says its the right hand coil /spark plug lead that needs replacing. Clear misfire is heard. Apart from rough running, can I still ride it or will it cause further damage?
 
The faults been there since Friday and it’s Sunday....sounds like you either want to ride the bike to work on Monday, or more importantly you have to because it’s your only transport.

Personally, I would never continue to ride a bike which had a known fault, which would make the smooth running of the bike difficult and be a constant distraction.........unless it was absolutely necessary to get me to somewhere where I could fix it.

You’ll be down on power. You’ll be burning rich on the duff cylinder every time it fires. The bikes not going to run smooth and it will be a constant distraction.

However, on you main question, Is the fault likely to cause further damage...........maybe

Probably not what your looking to hear, but at the end of the day it’s your bike, and your decision.....:nenau
 
adventuredon said:
bike strated popping and running rough on way to work on Friday. Got home. Mechanic has looked at it and says its the right hand coil /spark plug lead that needs replacing. Clear misfire is heard. Apart from rough running, can I still ride it or will it cause further damage?
Click to expand...


I've seen twin spark failed coil caps catch fire/melt if used continually. Which leads to the connector and wiring melting..... hence why BMW sell a repair kit :D.

You can carry on using the bike as long as you unplug the loom connector at the coil cap. But after a while (a few weeks) the bottom secondary plug will foul up and stop working.
 
Is it a twin spark model that needs a new stick coil? I might have a spare lying about.
 
ok, numpty question: not got the manual and not really looked at the bike, is there anything I need to know about replacing these leads? Is it simply click off covers, pull and swap? Apologies but I have really not looked at this bike as much as I probably should have so knowledge is limited.
 
Hi Don
If your bike was like my old GS then the coil is roughly above the alternator.
Leads just push in at the coil end.
Easiest if you can lift the tank
 
OK, so swapped both coil leads for new leads. Same misfire/popping sound still exists - only rode it twice to work. Back to mechanic time.
 
adventuredon said:
OK, so swapped both coil leads for new leads. Same misfire/popping sound still exists - only rode it twice to work. Back to mechanic time.
Click to expand...

Why don't you take it to Mechanic that knows what they are doing ??

You are not that far from Steptoe? He has Loan Bikes (Did have Loan Bikes?)

That misdiagnosis just cost you a week in the car and a set of leads

Did you unplug the Stick coils and run it ??

Did the mech do a compression check??

Don;t ask me why but the only bikes I have really heard of burning a valve are the R1150Rs Usually the exhaust RHS
 
Previously spoken to Steppers and he doesn't do electrics..
2)as it is part of the clutch / cutting out electrical issue and only 200m from my home, an easy drop in
Not necessarily misdiagnosis, the leads taken off had cuts in them, so probably needed replacing on a 20 year old bike. Yes, leads were removed and tested.
Feedback today is that the inlet valves on left cylinder were out and stutter seems to be gone. Seems....
As for mechanics that don't know what they are doing, I have been back to some that have not done a job 100% or tested bike thoroughly as requested, or listened to what I noticed and not investigated further etc. If it's closer to home, it's easier to return
 
OK,Update: 2 inlet valves needed adjusting, even though bike was serviced 800 miles ago. Before dropping bike off I felt a knock/judder coming from forks/bar area when decelerating. Small play in head bearings? No movement detected at ball joint. So replaced head bearing. Picked it up on Friday, bike rides better. But knock at front still present on slowing down or closed throttle. Makes me think the knock/jolt is more like a misfire/timing on a compression stroke just before it then catches/fires? Like it fires just out of synch. If expected it can be dealt with, but otherwise it feels like bike is just about to cut out. Had new timing hall sensor fitted 800 miles ago . Bike rise better and idles at 1050 /1100. But give it gas and the decelerate it is still popping on deceleration and closed throttle. More popping / spitting than loud explosive backfire. If that makes sense? ideas?
 
Few years back had the bike in for MOT. Tester started it up, lots of smoke from coil pack.
Had a spare in the top box, prior to that there wasn't a hint of the coil pack failing. I've probably gone through 4 or 5, all of THEM were obviously failing.
 
so went back to mechanic today, he adjusted a screw type thing on RHS under the throttle rocker? (that circular thing with the cables on it). Seems the nut needed adjusting and wasn't closing a valve or something. took it for a test run and all pops, bangs and overruns are missing, so far...So if that does fix it, how did that throttle adjuster nut ? suddenly become overtight/too loose? and why did 2 valves need adjusting..I suspect the 2 are linked somehow. Anyhow, if its fixed I am ecstatic with this fine weather!
 
Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
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