How to solve this stripped bolt on 1150?
- Thread starter Slime Bomb
- Start date
Simplest solution would be to use a smaller tap & dye set on that particular thread.......unless of course they can be replaced?
Fenboy
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As the fox says.
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A proper repair would involve drilling the stripped stud out and brazing a new stud in.
It can be done,with proper safety precautions.
It can be done,with proper safety precautions.
Depending on how bad the thread is - a temporary solution is to use two bolts, one as a locknut on the upper section of thread (if there is any!). Bit bodgy but it’s worked for me in the past with no issues.
Tristafarian
Registered user
This what my brain says will solve it too. There should be thread near the end?
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Do you think drilling it out and fitting a rivnut would be better?
Outside the seal area so likely to be a possible weak point
Mikey is right, Properly it needs a new stud
IF running a Die down it and using a barrel nut doesn't work
"BUT" I have never seen one leak with just one stud missing
Neil (Steptoe) should able to confirm this as he has mentioned it previously too
Slime bomb Did your mate buy a new O Ring or was it the old one ??
Mine was stripped bare. Instead of stepping down with the die to rethread, I used the same size die, i think it's M5 and it still has enough metal to form threads.
I posted this in advrider forum if you can access it.
https://advrider.com/f/threads/fuel-tank-studs-same-old-problem.1463339/#post-41873619
I posted this in advrider forum if you can access it.
https://advrider.com/f/threads/fuel-tank-studs-same-old-problem.1463339/#post-41873619
I used barrel nut in my description above
Its a sleeve nut or stud bar connector nut
M5 x 25 instead of just grabbing a couple of threads he gets all the threads but tell him not to be a gorilla when tightening it !
https://www.orbitalfasteners.co.uk/...onnectors-bright-zinc-plated-grade-8-din-6334
Its a sleeve nut or stud bar connector nut
M5 x 25 instead of just grabbing a couple of threads he gets all the threads but tell him not to be a gorilla when tightening it !
https://www.orbitalfasteners.co.uk/...onnectors-bright-zinc-plated-grade-8-din-6334
Yeah, he used a new seal. personally I don't think the seal was seated properly but thanks for the replies and all passed on.
This was my first thought but the threads are chewed up a bit from trying to get the nut off.
I can confirm, there are many many tanks with one stud not used due to the thread being damaged. I've yet to see one leak. BUT, do not overtighten the two nuts each side of the buggered stud to compensate.
Welshman
Registered user
A couple of extra washers may be enough, to get to good threads, running a die down is a bad idea it will remove metal (I know after a respray). A good mate fixed one, drilled it undersize, tapped it slightly undersize nose of a taper tap, from the inside inserted a cap screw with epoxy putty let it set and never a drizzle. 
I would try the barrel nut approach proposed by DrFarkoff, I’ve used it one an another GS I used to have and it worked well on a shagged thread. I used a brass one but it makes no difference. On my current bike with the big tank I had a stripped thread on one stud. I got that tank stripped and resealed by Hartlepool radiators and they welded in a new stud for me at the same time. It was a pricey job mind. I would defo try the barrel nut
All sorted! He ended up drilling the stud out, tapped the hole, replaced the stud and used the barrel nut. After all those years of no use with only 19,000mls on the clock it took a while to start but when it did it purred like a new bike!
Thanks to all.
Thanks to all.
Tristafarian
Registered user
Good to know this is an option.
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Sent from my SM-G986B using Tapatalk
Great solution!
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