Slow cranking but always starts

Mine's a 2011 1200GS TU (Triple Black and lovely), 38,000 miles and runs like a Swiss watch. However when starting it seems to crank really slooooowly. Always starts first time, but it seems deathly slow to turn over. It lives on an Optimate constantly. Changed the battery a year ago, thought it was better for a while but now back to being dead slow. Sometimes the heated grips don't work until I stop and restart the engine - I know the management unit will shut them off if there's not enough charge, so makes me wonder if there is a charging issue. Low charge light and engine-shaped warning icon often come on in the LCD display for a second after starting, not too worried about that really, goes out after literally a second or two. But...it always starts despite turing over slowly! Bamboozled. Perhaps there isn't an issue at all. Half wondering if its a starter motor fault, I had one go bad on my 1100GS years ago, it murdered batteries annually. Any thoughts? Thanks.

yep, 90th anniversary (2013) TC - behaves exactly the same. New battery fitted last year and no difference but it always starts.
 
My 2011 TC is the same, slow cranking but always starts, if it ain’t broke don’t fix it. Raised it with BMW at the last service, they are all like that mate...
 
Gents - thanks again for the comments. I totally respct Steptoe's (and other wise ones) opinions, he's probably forgotten more than I'll ever know, it could very well be an alternator on the way out or the starter motor. There is quite a lot of evidence that it is just a peculiarity of this model too...so I shall keep my cash gaining in the bank gaining heaps of interest (!) for now, and see how it goes. Cheers all.

Putting a new pair of Pilot Trail 5s on tomorrow after 18 years of Tourances. We'll see how well that goes...
 
All I know is mine was slow but always started, it got slower but still always started until one time It didn’t. I wasn’t at home, in fact I was on my way to visit my elderly mum in hospital. Recovery took me home after a long cold wait in a lay-by where I had stopped to plug my heated jacket in - it was proper cold. I never got to see my mum that day and thankfully she was fine but it’s a right royal pita.

They may “all do that sir” but one day all these slow starters will fail. Keep an eye on them and when they start really struggling but you are convinced everything else is fine get a replacement ordered.
 
Pretty much the same with my 2011 GSA1200 Triple black.
I bought a new battery (motorbatt) over a year ago thinking the battery was on it's way out but still hav'nt fitted it.
 
I have a 2010 anniversary
Motabatts seem to last about two years before needing to be replaced.
They eventually fail on cold starting
Always slow to crank and always kept on the bmw charger.
Hot starting is a bug bear.
I have occasionally stalled it and it has failed to restart — as if the battery is completely dead - on one occasion reset the time on the clock.
Wait two minutes and it will start - all but slowly.
I have just put on additional leads to the starter, both + and - from the motobatt four pole battery.
I’ll see how that goes.
I have stripped and rebuilt the starter twice and I’m very reluctant to swap it - as all seems good.



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Slow or no starting.

Hi, I have a 10 plate twin cam with all the above problems, would not restart the bike when hot unless I left it 10 too 15 mins.
I stripped and cleaned my starter and re brushed it which made a slight improvement but the problem returned to frustrait me again.
I dont normally restart my bike when hot but we do need fuel now and again.
After optimating my motobatt MBTX9U for a few days, it failed to start until I jump packed the battery and instant start.
After a lot of research I ordered and fitted a new motobatt MBYZ16H Battery and 240cca 16ah, of power instantly starts my bike hot or cold.
My old motobatt was several years old but still passed a battery cranking test after a recharge and 24 he stand.
 
My 2011 TC has always, in my almost 7 year and 50 odd thousand mile ownership been slow to turn over. It'll turn, seem to stop then go again, always has done.
The battery on it at the moment is a, coming up to 7 year old MotoBatt and is still good to go. As for pulling the clutch in, with a car type clutch like these have, by pulling
in the clutch you may be disconnecting the gearbox but you are loading the crankshaft thrust washers so one thing defeats the other. I have never pulled the clutch in to start.
 
My 2011 TC has always, in my almost 7 year and 50 odd thousand mile ownership been slow to turn over. It'll turn, seem to stop then go again, always has done.
The battery on it at the moment is a, coming up to 7 year old MotoBatt and is still good to go. As for pulling the clutch in, with a car type clutch like these have, by pulling
in the clutch you may be disconnecting the gearbox but you are loading the crankshaft thrust washers so one thing defeats the other. I have never pulled the clutch in to start.
I don't even touch the throttle, let alone the clutch...

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Me neither.


So yea, I'm thinking if it doesn't start with literally only the button pressed, something is up, or nearly up.

Not sure if I posted it further up, but I switched to a lithium battery (albeit an expensive one) and ever since, without change, it fires up first time. Regardless of being frozen or stinking hot. Just can tell you if it's that expensive battery or it's because I've got a good apple!

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Hi, I have a 10 plate twin cam with all the above problems, would not restart the bike when hot unless I left it 10 too 15 mins.
I stripped and cleaned my starter and re brushed it which made a slight improvement but the problem returned to frustrait me again.
I dont normally restart my bike when hot but we do need fuel now and again.
After optimating my motobatt MBTX9U for a few days, it failed to start until I jump packed the battery and instant start.
After a lot of research I ordered and fitted a new motobatt MBYZ16H Battery and 240cca 16ah, of power instantly starts my bike hot or cold.
My old motobatt was several years old but still passed a battery cranking test after a recharge and 24 he stand.

I've just bought a motobatt MBYZ16H as well, I thought I might as well get a more powerful than standard one. As my odyssee that has been on my bike for 13 years now is probably going to fail sometime. It's never let me down and never been on a trickle charger but they can't last forever can they.

The odyssee was a really tight fit and after taking it out the motobatt is really loose in its place with an inch gap either side . I have some thick foam which I have padded the battery out with on either side. Thing is I think there should be a strap from the back going over the battery to secure it which my odyssee never had. The motobatt is a little loose. Should I get a strap and will it fit over the motobatt I've just bought?
I don't want it bouncing around too much especially on the Icelandic trails later this year.
Any advice welcome.
 
There is a stainless steel strap that holds the battery in place, it is obscured a bit in this photo by the wiring.

bTwj1yU.jpg
[/IMG]
 
Thanks for that. I've seen a strap on motorworks site so I may as well order it. Does yours have a gap either side. The odyssee I took out is wider as I said. The side has fins down both edges too. There isn't a box that your motobatt sits in is there. Does it just drop into the tray. Wish I'd taken a couple of photos now.
 
There is a gap either side as with the original battery.
It does not have an extra box or packers.
The stainless steel strap clips onto the ledge at the bottom and as the screw at the top is tightened it clamps the battery in place.
 
A picture of the OEM strap.
I have seen these Modified ( Butchered ) to fit Odyssee PC535 battery.

FMuSQFb.png
[/IMG]
 
A picture of the OEM strap.
I have seen these Modified ( Butchered ) to fit Odyssee PC535 battery.

FMuSQFb.png
[/IMG]

My odyssee was a really tight fit and had no strap. It was fitted when I bought the bike in 2008. Strap ordered from motorworks anyway. Thanks for the info.
It was a real bugger to lever the odyssee out. Got there in the end. I think it was getting a bit tired though it never let me down even when left for months. The new battery does turn the engine over better from cold in comparison.
Thanks for the info.
 
I have a 2011 TC R1200R which started reasonably when cold but was horribly sluggish when hot, it always felt like it just wasn't going to turn it over.

Looked through various threads on here and one mentioned brush sets from ebay

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Starter-...705023?hash=item1ccbe287bf:g:pzIAAOSweTFcgTGa

Bought a set for £12.49, thoroughly cleaned the starter and fitted them and now it starts like a champ, hot or cold..... for that outlay it's got to be worth a try.

Mick.
 
Gents - thanks again for the comments. I totally respct Steptoe's (and other wise ones) opinions, he's probably forgotten more than I'll ever know, it could very well be an alternator on the way out or the starter motor. There is quite a lot of evidence that it is just a peculiarity of this model too...so I shall keep my cash gaining in the bank gaining heaps of interest (!) for now, and see how it goes. Cheers all.

Putting a new pair of Pilot Trail 5s on tomorrow after 18 years of Tourances. We'll see how well that goes...

I hope you will be very happy. Great tyres. I’ll be putting a second set on mine soon. I’ll never buy your aces again.

Regarding starting the bike with the clutch in, does this make a difference when the bike is in neutral? I’ll try it when I go out later. My bike goes chug, chug, chug and ALWAYS fires on the fourth turn.
 


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