Slow cranking but always starts

I hope you will be very happy. Great tyres. I’ll be putting a second set on mine soon. I’ll never buy your aces again.

Regarding starting the bike with the clutch in, does this make a difference when the bike is in neutral? I’ll try it when I go out later. My bike goes chug, chug, chug and ALWAYS fires on the fourth turn.

See post 29 for a thought on this :thumb
 
I have always pulled the clutch in to start whatever, more as a safety point, never given the poor old crankshaft thrust bearing a second thought.
But now you mention it, after the bike has stood there is only a thin film of oil on the thrust bearing so probably not such a good idea to pull the clutch in when starting from cold, especially if it has to turn over a few times.
Another bad habit to change. :)
 
I have always pulled the clutch in to start whatever, more as a safety point, never given the poor old crankshaft thrust bearing a second thought.
But now you mention it, after the bike has stood there is only a thin film of oil on the thrust bearing so probably not such a good idea to pull the clutch in when starting from cold, especially if it has to turn over a few times.
Another bad habit to change. :)

Happy to help :beerjug::D
 
I have always pulled the clutch in to start whatever, more as a safety point, never given the poor old crankshaft thrust bearing a second thought.
But now you mention it, after the bike has stood there is only a thin film of oil on the thrust bearing so probably not such a good idea to pull the clutch in when starting from cold, especially if it has to turn over a few times.
Another bad habit to change. :)

I have to pull the clutch on my TL's to start them all. As it has a switch on the lever. Our work van won't start unless you put the clutch in either.
I'm sure many other vehicles do the same.
Never bothered on the GSA. Original clutch on 113.000 miles now.
Fitted the battery strap to the new motobatt. I left the packing foam either side that I put in. Can't see it over heating because of it. Tbh.
 
the odyssey from motorworks has some external casing stuff shaved off and comes with a 10mm longer strap (or thereabouts) so it fits. I'd be wary the front seat mount with a taller than stock battery puts lots of pressure on the cables there... you could get some fun...

if you top up the odyssey it should do another 5 years... mine went overnight from starting with gusto to as useless as a 5 year old stock battery (click and nothing even with a battery charger on whilst trying to start), to good as new after I topped it up. Quite extraordinarily I had to put 140 ml of distilled water in each cell. Even the 23kg merc one only needed 75ml per cell !!!

Didn't need a charge all this winter, that was 3 years after topping up the odyssey
 
TL (Suzuki) should start in neutral, side stand down, clutch out... if not its either not stock UK or some other element is at fault (side stand switch ???)
the battery on that was incredible never charged it, never let me down even though one year it sat for >14 months without being started and had only done 100 miles before being parked up the year before
 
TL (Suzuki) should start in neutral, side stand down, clutch out... if not its either not stock UK or some other element is at fault (side stand switch ???)
the battery on that was incredible never charged it, never let me down even though one year it sat for >14 months without being started and had only done 100 miles before being parked up the year before

Same as, batteries are never a problem on the TL's. Btw I have 3 of them at the moment and all need the clutch pulling to start. Always have done. And I've owned one from new.
 
They do all do that though. Unless you have an excellent battery and well worn clutch.
 
Same as, batteries are never a problem on the TL's. Btw I have 3 of them at the moment and all need the clutch pulling to start. Always have done. And I've owned one from new.

??? maybe I've forgotten... but you can then let the clutch out and it keeps going Yes?
 
??? maybe I've forgotten... but you can then let the clutch out and it keeps going Yes?

Of course. Just need to pull the clutch for the starter to engage. Even when I had a clutch cable break I had to pull the lever to start it in gear to get home. That was fun.
 
Disconnect negative battery lead.
remove the 2 cable connectors on the back of the starter.
Remove the 2 starter bolts, long extension required for the back bolt.
Remove the starter.
Early bikes had a plastic cover over the starter which needed removing first.
While the starter is off you can see the clutch plate. Check the thickness with feeler gauges or similar, new clutch plate Approx. 6.5mm service limit 4.5mm.
 
New clutch plate is 6.35mm, got one in my hand about to fit to the bike.
 
New clutch plate is 6.35mm, got one in my hand about to fit to the bike.

They vary... I've had them to 6.8mm.

But of course the (very) slight differences between peoples friction plates could all be to do with their micrometers not being synched/calibrated with each other.. :D
 
My 2013 90year has let me down a couple of times recently - Slow cranking but starting from cold then stopping for fuel and it does not restart.

Battery is not that old a only last week fully charges and tested the next day as holding 12.8 volts

Today a jump pack got me going again but I’m thinking I should invest in one of these


Or is there an even better battery option TIA
 
My 2013 90year has let me down a couple of times recently - Slow cranking but starting from cold then stopping for fuel and it does not restart.

Battery is not that old a only last week fully charges and tested the next day as holding 12.8 volts

Today a jump pack got me going again but I’m thinking I should invest in one of these


Or is there an even better battery option TIA
That looks the same as the one I got for my 2010 Hexhead and it's been fine ever since. I got mine from Tayna and who look to be slightly cheaper.
 
I have to pull the clutch on my TL's to start them all. As it has a switch on the lever. Our work van won't start unless you put the clutch in either.
I'm sure many other vehicles do the same.
Never bothered on the GSA. Original clutch on 113.000 miles now.
Fitted the battery strap to the new motobatt. I left the packing foam either side that I put in. Can't see it over heating because of it. Tbh.
I've got a Kia and you have to have the clutch in and the brake on to start it. I suppose the next step is that I'll have to have a letter from my Mum for the engine to start.
 
Checked the battery today after 24hr since parking up and it showed 12.8 volts which aI understand to be good.

Started the bike and it turned over a little faster and seemed to start with ease - I let it warm up a bit then stopped, waited a few minutes and then restarted. Again it started just fine!

There was one difference though - Up until today I had been a pull the clutch in starter, today I just pushed the button :D
 


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