Mine's a 2011 1200GS TU (Triple Black and lovely), 38,000 miles and runs like a Swiss watch. However when starting it seems to crank really slooooowly. Always starts first time, but it seems deathly slow to turn over. It lives on an Optimate constantly. Changed the battery a year ago, thought it was better for a while but now back to being dead slow. Sometimes the heated grips don't work until I stop and restart the engine - I know the management unit will shut them off if there's not enough charge, so makes me wonder if there is a charging issue. Low charge light and engine-shaped warning icon often come on in the LCD display for a second after starting, not too worried about that really, goes out after literally a second or two. But...it always starts despite turing over slowly! Bamboozled. Perhaps there isn't an issue at all. Half wondering if its a starter motor fault, I had one go bad on my 1100GS years ago, it murdered batteries annually. Any thoughts? Thanks.
Slow cranking but always starts
- Thread starter ajd
- Start date
I have the same model, 2011 1200 TU and it is exactly the same. Replaced the battery, replaced the starter motor and still slow to crank, but always fires up.
Now I have a spare starter I'll try replacing the brushes as I've heard that sorts it. A little job for a spring evening
Now I have a spare starter I'll try replacing the brushes as I've heard that sorts it. A little job for a spring evening
StewMcGrew
Registered user
My 2012 does the samething.
I had the standard 'they all do that, sir!' Response from BMW.
Turns out its true on this occassion then
I had the standard 'they all do that, sir!' Response from BMW.
Turns out its true on this occassion then
Gentlemen thank you! Feel much easier now. Ride safe.
I had this for a while. In fact it went on and I kept thinking i need to get a new battery. But it always started...
I did get around to a new battery eventually. I fitted a lithium battery (v expensive Alliant battery
). But... In two + years and all weathers it's starts first time every time. And always with a good strong thump. That was even after standing for a while and after we had that mini 'Beast from the East' - it's had much longer standing over these last months due to covid lockdowns... 
So... I'd start with a look over the starter (cheapest first option), them move on to another battery. Especially if it's the original battery!!
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I did get around to a new battery eventually. I fitted a lithium battery (v expensive Alliant battery
). But... In two + years and all weathers it's starts first time every time. And always with a good strong thump. That was even after standing for a while and after we had that mini 'Beast from the East' - it's had much longer standing over these last months due to covid lockdowns... 
So... I'd start with a look over the starter (cheapest first option), them move on to another battery. Especially if it's the original battery!!
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Check out the recent thread about alternators....... you’re symptoms are the first signs of an alternator starting to seize. Of course It might not be that, but it’s something to check.
Has it always been like that? I'd put a volt meter across the battery and see what it drops to during cranking. You could also try connecting up jump leads to a running car and then start the bike. If that solves the slow cranking look to the battery, if it doesn't keep looking.
You might also check the main earth connection. Can't help with the 12's but on the 1150 the connection was on the top of the gearbox below the battery and corrosion was common.
You might also check the main earth connection. Can't help with the 12's but on the 1150 the connection was on the top of the gearbox below the battery and corrosion was common.
I had this a 2-3 years ago. New starter motor sorted it. Arrowhead is a pattern part and waaay cheaper than oem. Easy to replace. Cost ca £200.
Yea. I meant to add that to my comment. Because of your recent posts and pics! Not that the op's has cracked (who knows?!) but because it's part of the chain...
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always start with the clutch in, cars, bikes etc. it's just better...
I always put the struggling to start especially when hot down to it being a high compression large displacement twin cylinder engine with no means of decompression automatic or manual.
Especially using a relatively small battery. 1000cc airhead with lower compression has a 30 Ah battery.
Last year a post was put on this site saying that fitting new starter motor brushes purchased from ebay had sorted the problem.
Tried this as the original brushes were part worn, The bike now cranks a lot stronger.
The only thing I could put it down to was the heat in the brushes had tempered the springs.
Especially using a relatively small battery. 1000cc airhead with lower compression has a 30 Ah battery.
Last year a post was put on this site saying that fitting new starter motor brushes purchased from ebay had sorted the problem.
Tried this as the original brushes were part worn, The bike now cranks a lot stronger.
The only thing I could put it down to was the heat in the brushes had tempered the springs.
Deep down I knew it was the starter motor but before I spent the £200 on a new one I did the following. None of which made any real difference.
Checked the battery connections, charged it, swapped it with a known good one. Small improvement so bought a bigger capacity Motobatt just in case.
Removed the tank and cleaned up the earth connection on top of the motor. No difference but a satisfying job.
Doubled up the +ve cable to the starter and ran a second earth from the starter direct to the battery. No difference whatsoever. Waste of time and money.
Serviced the starter - removed, dismantled, cleaned, added grease where needed. Then bought a service kit and fitted new brushes etc. There was actually an improvement at this point but not for long and not to what you would describe as fixed. Still, it was an interesting exercise.
What I didn’t do was check the alternator which itself failed about 18months later and was noisy at the time. It won’t have been helping if it’s bearings were failing making it hard to turn.
Last resort I Fitted the Arrowhead starter and with a nice fast whirr and a chug chug back to like new. I probably wasted tens of hours of garage time and a bit of cash chasing a fault I knew was the starter really.
Great collective cleverness, thanks.
Seems it's down to either alternator or starter motor. Possibly both (but seldom double jeopardy). Is there any way to rule the alternator in/out as the culprit other than the voltage across the battery terminals with the engine running?
Seems it's down to either alternator or starter motor. Possibly both (but seldom double jeopardy). Is there any way to rule the alternator in/out as the culprit other than the voltage across the battery terminals with the engine running?
I was just about to say that, my TC lived outside for 6 months and it never really recovered, 2 years later stripped the belt on starting.
Just thinking about how to test for a partially seized alternator. One way, admittedly not very accurate but may be an indication, would be to turn the engine over manually. I’ve done this when changing the belt - plugs out, 6th gear selected and turn the engine using my foot. If it turns easily by hand then the alternator can’t be badly seized. Would only take a few minutes.
They all do it. My 2012 the same even after a new battery
If the alternator isn't charging properly the battery won't be fully charged and the voltage will be measurably lower. Disonnect the earth to ensure no p0wer draw and check the voltage.
I had hot start issues develop with my S10. Alternator was OK, battery was tired, I stuck on a LiPo replacement and problem solved.
SIB8292
Registered user
(On Yugsy1's advice, thank you again) new starter brushes cured min
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