Ignition barrel....

King Rat

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I have tried searching but all I get is 'X Country Wanted' and a few 1200 ignition things... tried about 6 different phrases to no avail. I don't really know how to do a search.

The story:
I rode up to The Wirral and after getting there, mucking about a bit, then to ride home, stopped for a pee and make a phone call... came back to the bike, helmet on, gloves on, turn key - DEAD. Nothing, no dash lights, nothing. Man comes out with flatbed and box of tools, including a multimeter. 14.5v everywhere, well everywhere he could stick his pins across contacts, all the important ones. All fuses good.... got to be the ignition barrel.

Anyone got any help with what needs taking off to get it out of the top yolk please? The ribbed plastic ring around the bit where the key goes in, does that unscrew? I can't shift it. How much of the front needs to be taken off to get at what I need to get at please? I am worried about undoing the headlamp and upsetting the alignment for when I ride it - if I mark something, is that a good way of getting back into the right position?

Servicing I can cope with. Mending is a different thing. I haven't had a bike breakdown for about 30 years, so I am totally out of practise. I prefer to ensure nothing goes wrong.... been pretty good at that to be fair over the years. A puncture and running out of fuel being the only other times I have had to stop - both easily solved at the side of the road.

Many thanks if you can help at all with information specific to getting at the ignition barrel and how to fix it. :thumby:
 
paste this into the search box

Ignition Switch fail on X Challenge
 
Normally one of the soldered wires on the black plastic ignition switch has come adrift. Easy enough to re solder once switch unplugged and removed.
 
Barrel is held in place with one normal screw and one security screw which has to be drilled out so only real way of doing it is to remove the top yoke

If it is just a disconnected soldered joint on the switch itself you wont need to drill the bolt out to remove the barrel , as with the yoke off you will have access to re solder it by just removing the two screws holding the plastic cover in place

 
Barrel is held in place with one normal screw and one security screw which has to be drilled out so only real way of doing it is to remove the top yoke

If it is just a disconnected soldered joint you wont need to drill the bolt out , as with the yoke off you will have access to re solder it

Just push the tabs in on the back of the ignition switch and the end will pop off, revealing the failed contacts, so no need to undo the switch itself from the yokes. The tabs on the back of the switch are reasonably easy to re-solder. Takes longer to get the end cap off the switch than it does to do the repair...
 
Barrel is held in place with one normal screw and one security screw which has to be drilled out so only real way of doing it is to remove the top yoke

If it is just a disconnected soldered joint on the switch itself you wont need to drill the bolt out to remove the barrel , as with the yoke off you will have access to re solder it by just removing the two screws holding the plastic cover in place


I appreciate your trying to help. I don't think I have the right tools to get the yolk off - that is a bit more dismantling than I am comfortable with to be honest. Will it upset the head bearing setting and everything? I haven't taken it apart to that extent before. I certainly don't have the experience or kit to drill out security screws.
 
If I can work out which two wires need to be joined to make everything work when the key is turned, I am half tempted to join them to a toggle switch - just on/off... and hid the switch somewhere in plain sight! Then leave the key in place as a diversion.....
 
Thank you everyone. Just having a cuppa and going to go out again and have another go. I have been looking all day at this...
 
From recollection I seem to think that you can unscrew the black plastic ignition off without removing the topyolk , bit tight and fiddly but it can be done.
 
I appreciate your trying to help. I don't think I have the right tools to get the yolk off - that is a bit more dismantling than I am comfortable with to be honest. Will it upset the head bearing setting and everything? I haven't taken it apart to that extent before. I certainly don't have the experience or kit to drill out security screws.

Simon , if its just the wires and not the barrel , as Nathan has suggested , you can just take the black plastic cover cap off and re solder the wires in-situ
 
Simon , if its just the wires and not the barrel , as Nathan has suggested , you can just take the black plastic cover cap off and re solder the wires in-situ

Thanks - I couldn't see where these plastic tab releases are yet. It has gone dark now, so I will have a look again tomorrow. The rugby is coming on now!
 
If I can work out which two wires need to be joined to make everything work when the key is turned, I am half tempted to join them to a toggle switch - just on/off... and hid the switch somewhere in plain sight! Then leave the key in place as a diversion.....

It's not difficult to work out which wires need connecting- there are only 2!

Just read your PM, will call when i'm on the road, but looking at the images above, the easiest way to do this is undo the 2x philips screws and the back of the ignition barrel will detach- you don't need to top half which contains the steering lock.

I'll give you a call when i'm on the road later this morning.

Kind regards,

Nathan
 
It's not difficult to work out which wires need connecting- there are only 2!

Just read your PM, will call when i'm on the road, but looking at the images above, the easiest way to do this is undo the 2x philips screws and the back of the ignition barrel will detach- you don't need to top half which contains the steering lock.

I'll give you a call when i'm on the road later this morning.

Kind regards,

Nathan

Thank you.
 
I have managed to get the electric switch off the bottom of the barrel and opened it (3x plastic tabs on mine!) The wiring is still in place. It must be the mechanicals behind it that have given up the ghost. The pins that spring onto the contacts, one must have broken.

Plan B. Source a toggle switch to turn the ignitin on/off and leave the key in the ignition barrel as camouflage. I shall have to try and find a small bracket of some sort to fit the toggle switch to and think of somewhere to mount it where it is unobtrusive. I shall visit my friend who has a precision engineering company, he will have a piece of steel or aluminium I can make a bracket from.
 
I just thought folks might like to know. My electrical wizard friend took the ignition switch apart, my old one that I had cut off because it wasn't connecting. He cleaned it out, corossion proofed it and soldered the wires back on and put it all back together. It works perfectly. The ignition switch was fine, just dirty from 13 years of build up. I have heard quite a few people say they have had problems with the ignition switch, even one or two of you have mentioned it. i bet most of those thrown away and replaced as being defunct could have been cleaned and rescued. Andy did say the way the original soldering done was very cheap and tacky - he is used to doing things the correct way and probably 10x stronger than needed, that is why I happy for him to do electrics/electronics, he is meticulous. I bet that switch won't fail for 20 years at least. Just something to think of before splashing out £60 on a new switch and piece of wire.
 
I fitted an aftermarket ignition switch to the wife's 650 Sertao years ago. About a tenner off eBay and it's been perfect.
 


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