I’m after a flappy valve for my GSA 1200 TC please, I did get one from a member on here but it was beyond repair after I dismantled it, but it did however help me see how to fix it , it’s only the valve part I need and not the servo.
After (another) flappy valve
- Thread starter Howard J
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Bear
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Is your original valve simply stuck or it it trashed beyond repair? I've just spent a weekend freeing mine off. Taking the actuator cover off let me disconnect the cables, which were rusted to the pulley wheel, and lever on the mechanism with a screwdriver. That got it moving but not returning under spring pressure so I pulled off the silencer and went in with a variety of lubricants and offensive language. It eventually freed off so I sprayed the pivots with 3-in-One aerosol copper grease and bolted it back together. The GS-911 no longer reports fault code 10313 and all it cost me was time and copper grease. I did see a used valve on the MotorWorks website but it was, iirc, £160 which seemed an awful lot.
Something I'm puzzled about so a quick hijack if I may. The REPROM shows cable adjustment by turning the ferrules on the ends of the cables then checking for free play by pulling on the cable. My adjusters don't turn so I assume this means they've rusted to the cables. Is this correct or have I misunderstood the adjustment procedure?
Something I'm puzzled about so a quick hijack if I may. The REPROM shows cable adjustment by turning the ferrules on the ends of the cables then checking for free play by pulling on the cable. My adjusters don't turn so I assume this means they've rusted to the cables. Is this correct or have I misunderstood the adjustment procedure?
Not sure about REPROM, but you just adjust at the pulley end by taking the free play out of each side.
I destroyed the one I have by filing off the blanking end to get to the cause, which is actually a graphite spacer with wire going through it.
Still looking for one, thanks
I destroyed the one I have by filing off the blanking end to get to the cause, which is actually a graphite spacer with wire going through it.
Still looking for one, thanks
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If it's the same flappy valve as is on the R9T then I have one.
Bear
Registered user
Post #4 in this old thread https://www.ukgser.com/forums/showt...ing-2010-Model?highlight=exhaust+cable+adjust describes the operation. It implies that the cables are free inside the hexagonal ends (parts 3 and 6) whereas mine are either crimped or rusted to the cables. I'm trying to find out which.
As regards whethea valve from an R9T would fit, a check on REALOEM to find the part number would tell yos as it lets you cross-check a part number to see all models that use it.
As regards whethea valve from an R9T would fit, a check on REALOEM to find the part number would tell yos as it lets you cross-check a part number to see all models that use it.
ive replied on the other thread
Hi Cabby, I’ve just checked and it’s the same, please can you PM me, thanks Howard
Thanks Austin, have just read it, It looks like cabby may have one that’s all in tact which would be better for me, many thanks for the offer
I got my bike 3 years ago and it had been removed, I now have straight through arrow headers with no cat so I want to try and quieten it down a bit as it’s pretty loud.
I personally found that removing the cat made low end torque worse, increased vibes and made the noise unbearable fro my pillion on long rides. Put the cat back on with Akro with no baffle plus AFXIED units to enrich the mixture....heaven, tolerable, smooth and punchy....each to their own though!
Ditto. It does work fine. One thing less to go wrong and they do stick regularly. Removal causes no visible alarm (only shows on your GS911).
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