How to remove a stuck fastener

Jimjam72 · Apr 10, 2021

Hi folks, need some advice please, am sure there is a simple way to do this but I don’t know what it is....
Am trying to remove my engine cover to change the spark plugs and one of the fasteners holding the cover on has seized and stripped the inside of the head. Is there an easy way to remove it? I’ve tried pliers but can’t get a right enough grip. I’ve sprayed it with some GT85 to try and loosen it off but no joy so far.

Thanks

James

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leadfarmer · Apr 10, 2021

A couple of ways depending upon what tools you have

An oversized torx bit and an impact driver

Hacksaw a slot into it (not too deep) and get a big flat screwdriver bit on it

Small chisel and hammer to tap it anti clockwise (I did one last week that way, coincidentally on a cylinder head cover

Big Si · Apr 10, 2021

Weld a nut to it, undo nut and fastener, throw away fastener and replace. :thumb2

Jimjam72 · Apr 10, 2021

Thanks fellas, I’ll start with the impact driver and work my way down. That seems easiest to start with.

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Big Si · Apr 10, 2021

Molegrips

Jimjam72 · Apr 10, 2021

leadfarmer said:
A couple of ways depending upon what tools you have

An oversized torx bit and an impact driver

Hacksaw a slot into it (not too deep) and get a big flat screwdriver bit on it

Small chisel and hammer to tap it anti clockwise (I did one last week that way, coincidentally on a cylinder head cover

Oversized torx and impact driver got the offending article out!
Thanks again gents

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leadfarmer · Apr 10, 2021

Cool

Slipperyeel · Apr 10, 2021

Jimjam72 said:
Oversized torx and impact driver got the offending article out!
Thanks again gents

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Just seen this. Was going to say, Leadfarmer's suggestions are the best. Wouldn't get an impact driver into alloy parts...

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NicD · Apr 10, 2021

You've potentially got two problems - the fastener is corroded into the threads; and now you can't get purchase on the fastener. So you need to do two things to fix this. I would cover it in ACF50 (behind the guard) and then follow up with penetraing oil. To grip the fastener I would try a larger allen or torx bit, or use molegrips as others have said. Failing that I would drill it out. I think you may need to helicoil the thread in any case, so this wouldnt be a huge problem Solution in future is to use antiseize when fitting

gazza12adv · Apr 11, 2021

NicD said:
You've potentially got two problems - the fastener is corroded into the threads; and now you can't get purchase on the fastener. So you need to do two things to fix this. I would cover it in ACF50 (behind the guard) and then follow up with penetraing oil. To grip the fastener I would try a larger allen or torx bit, or use molegrips as others have said. Failing that I would drill it out. I think you may need to helicoil the thread in any case, so this wouldnt be a huge problem Solution in future is to use antiseize when fitting

Erm read post 6 again. No more problems.

StewMcGrew · Apr 11, 2021

For future reference, get some heat on to it. That will help break the chemical bond in the rust

Jimjam72 · Apr 11, 2021

StewMcGrew said:
For future reference, get some heat on to it. That will help break the chemical bond in the rust

thanks Stew

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Slipperyeel · Apr 11, 2021

StewMcGrew said:
For future reference, get some heat on to it. That will help break the chemical bond in the rust

I think you mean the mechanical bond... The rust has just become a plug, the chemistry is all done by that point

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steadysteve · Apr 11, 2021

I think I would have filed some flats on opposite sides of the fastener and used an AF spanner and heat gun before resorting to hammering torx bits into the head.

Steptoe · Apr 11, 2021

steadysteve said:
I think I would have filed some flats on opposite sides of the fastener and used an AF spanner and heat gun before resorting to hammering torx bits into the head.

The hammering helps. Plus it works in all types of applications 99% of the time without having to feck around.. ..

Slipperyeel · Apr 11, 2021

Steptoe said:
The hammering helps. Plus it works in all types of applications 99% of the time without having to feck around.. ..

I think your picture shows one of the best answers, for that location.

I mean, that location already gets pretty hot, so the small amount of hammering to get that torx in, should sort it. But for me, it's too small a bolt to get an impact driver involved. But each to their own

Also, ref posts above. It's not rust. It's ali oxide that's jamming it up. If the galvanising has gone on the bolt - v likely - then we know the rest...

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Dazlove · Apr 12, 2021

You can also use a set of these.
They grip the outside of the bolt head and almost embed themselves into the head as you remove.
No drilling or hammering required.

Jimjam72 · Apr 12, 2021

Dazlove said:
You can also use a set of these.
They grip the outside of the bolt head and almost embed themselves into the head as you remove.
No drilling or hammering required.

That’s useful to know, thanks Daz

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steadysteve · Apr 12, 2021

Steptoe said:
The hammering helps. Plus it works in all types of applications 99% of the time without having to feck around.. ..

I’ll try that next time Steppers

I used my method to get a stainless stud out of an RT front wheel. All but one of the studs came out after heating them to soften the thread lock. The last one rounded off.... No way was it coming out by normal means but a couple of flats cut into it with an angle grinder to fit a spanner onto it did the job.
I’m not sure there would be enough meat on a shallow headed stud to hammer a torx bit into.

leadfarmer · Apr 12, 2021

steadysteve said:
I’m not sure there would be enough meat on a shallow headed stud to hammer a torx bit into.

That’s where the chisel method comes in, can even be used to undo sheer bolts that have no flats whatsoever

How to remove a stuck fastener

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