1150 - cylinder/exhaust studs or bolts?

ralphy

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Having finally extracted the remaining studs from my cylinders:

https://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php/551825-Manifold-stud-removal-what-else-can-be-done/page2

It's made me wonder whether to fit replacement studs & nuts, or would fitting bolts be a better option??? :nenau

Also...

Having taken the cylinder off I was presented with this:
IMG_6143.jpeg


So I cleaned it up:
IMG_6144.jpeg


But would it be necessary to take the other cylinder off to clean it up or would leaving it alone have some negative effect with one clean cylinder and the other one dirty??? :nenau

Thoughts on both q's please.

R
 
Where my studs were OK, I used M8 stainless steel spring washers and Acorn (dome) nuts. Parts numbers 91300 and 48472 from Toolstation. The dome nuts make it more aerodynamic so faster dontyaknow.......... Also the dome nut can be used to set the tension on the alternator belt
They also do M8 stainless threaded stud (62545) if you want to make a "custom" length (damhik ! )
 
I like the idea of brass dome nuts and ss sping washers.

Stainless studs, brass nuts and Castrol Optimol Paste TA
That Castrol Optimol Paste TA is a great product for this application, good job I'd got a tube from years ago as it seems tricky to source it nowadays.

R
 
I like the idea of brass dome nuts and ss sping washers.

That Castrol Optimol Paste TA is a great product for this application, good job I'd got a tube from years ago as it seems tricky to source it nowadays.

R

The name seems to have been changed and I can't find a UK supplier of a single 100g tube (in the 2 minutes I spent on Google)
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/222914290098
 
Got half of the tube I bought many years ago (for spline lube when I did the clutch, I think). I started using it on exhaust studs/nuts when I discovered that Copaslip was no good for that job. Drilling studs out was no fun!
 
Did you just clean the inside of the head up or did you remove the valves and lap them in? I would put the plug back in and fill the head with paraffin and see if you have any valve leakage. If so, then lap the valves in. If all sound, you could probably assume the other side is ok so it’s up to you if you pull the other head and clean it up. If you have got a bit of valve leakage, then it would be worth pulling the other head off.
 
Did you just clean the inside of the head up or did you remove the valves and lap them in? I would put the plug back in and fill the head with paraffin and see if you have any valve leakage. If so, then lap the valves in. If all sound, you could probably assume the other side is ok so it’s up to you if you pull the other head and clean it up. If you have got a bit of valve leakage, then it would be worth pulling the other head off.
It hadn't occured to me to do that. :blast

But as the exhaust is not yet bolted on (I decided to paint the pipes black) it's not too late.

Thanks.

R
 


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