Himalayan chain adjustment - awkward or what ?

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GSite

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Been adjusting chains on bikes for 40+ years and never come across such a poorly designed and executed bastard of a chain adjustment set up.

Each side of the swinging arm at the axle ends is a slot in which there are vertical lines on the sliding adjuster. The idea is that marks above and below the slot line up with these vertical lines and in theory if in the same positon on each side the wheel is aligned correctly.

Not so - the vertical lines are not evenly spaced and are different on each side, the marks top and bottom of the slots do not line up and again are different each side.

When the axle is tightened the chain also tightens despite the vertical lines in the slot remaining constant and the adjusters being set for correct alignmemt.

10+ attempts and still cannot get the chain set right, God help me if I ever need to do this on a trip away.

My Honda Africa Twin uses a similar principle but I adjusted the chain in a few minutes with no problems and it was set correctly first time round.

What a nightmare, anyone else had problems ?
 
Not found mine any different to other bikes - do you mean as you tighten the nut on the RH the twisting force twists R to L vertically on the axis? If so just stop the twisting with a wedge but if the adjusters on the swing arm are right it should not be able to move forward?
 
The adjusters, i'll admit, are "cheap and cheerful" but, i don't really have much of a problem doing the chain tension i have to say.
Had the rear wheel out yesterday to fit a new Mitas E07 but as the chain adjustment was still good i didn't need to do anything.
As it's not a sportsbike i'm not too fussy about the alignment being spot on tbh. Only adjusted the chain once since i did it
when new as it was like a bow string from the shop. I sat behind the bike with my chest against the rear tyre pulling on the bike
with my left hand and this stopped the wheel creeping back whilst tightening the nut.

You probably are aware but i'll mention it anyway. Adjust the chain with the bike on it's wheels as the chain tightens when
dropped off the centre stand. Many vids of the Indians adjusting chains show them doing it on the centre stand and it's not
as though they tension it taking this into account. I saw a video the other day of a guy working on his bike and the chain
had no sag in it at all; had probably been adjusted whilst on the stand and too tightly at that :blast

Fitting a new Mitas E07 to the front today. So, new stering head bearings and new tyres, it's going to feel wonderful :D
 
I would lazer line the wheels and make my own punch marks on the arm and spindle adjuster.
 
I would lazer line the wheels and make my own punch marks on the arm and spindle adjuster.

Dismantled the adjusters, axle, spacers etc and cleaned it all up and lubbricated, it all operates smoothly now. Measured the length of the adjusters from the axle to where the lock nuts sit and made my own marks on the adjusters and on the swing arm once I had the set up aligned. Checked with a laser jobbie borrowed from a mate before making permanent marks. Now I know the chain can be quickly and easily adjusted in future using reliable markings.

Surely Enfield could just invest a bit more care in marking up the swing arm and adjusters - then quality control overall needs to be improved especially as the bike is no longer a cheap option at nearly £5000.

Hay ho, rant over, a great winter bike to potter around on though.
 
Not wanting to preach to the converted .... but when adjusting chains (on any 'bike) don't slacken off the the rear axle nut completely and loosly, just maybe semi taught, and then pull or shove the axle by the adjustment means, final tightening doesn't then make that much difference to the adjustment :rob

Just saying' like ....

:beerjug:
 
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