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B-Maniak · May 21, 2021

You fix a problem with the bike, you reassemble it properly. Insert the key, start it up and then another problem arises.

I just bought a 2002 1150GS with 35'000 miles on the clock and I wanted to take a little care of it before I put it back on the road. So I changed the sleeves of the wires fixed to the handlebar, all the brake hoses and connections for the fuel lines.

After reassembling everything, I have a strange noise in the engine, just like engine was hardly knocking:

and

Do you have any idea where it could come from?

Both spark plugs have a nice and strong blue spark and both injectors work.

Thanks for your help.

Cyrano · May 21, 2021

Did you check the RHS throttle cable ferrule is properly seated?

Lord Snooty · May 21, 2021

That'll sort it, job done.

B-Maniak · May 21, 2021

Cyrano said:
Did you check the RHS throttle cable ferrule is properly seated?

Will check that tomorrow.

B-Maniak · May 22, 2021

Do you mean in the black box under ABS unit?

If yes, is there a way to check/fix it without pulling the black box out?

oblertone · May 22, 2021

I rather think he means this, quite common when the tank has been moved; look at the Right side of the bike.

B-Maniak · May 22, 2021

OK, thanks for the photos. Well, unfortunately mine is well seated, so the issue remains.

Wrigsby1 · May 22, 2021

Also sometimes if you have been generally buggering about starting and stopping the engine it will sound like shite once restarted as the injection has been running rich for cold start but hasn't got hot... All my oilheads have been reluctant to run smoothly after a quick start stop... Can be fairly random but if you hold the revs higher for a short while it will start to clear... A bit like a wet plug that needs to clear... Being a twin it can sound more dramatic than it is and being an oilhead you have to retune your mechanical sensitivity to tractor mode...
Hopefully yours is something like that...

Steptoe · May 22, 2021

B-Maniak said:
You fix a problem with the bike, you reassemble it properly. Insert the key, start it up and then another problem arises.

Let’s go back to the beginning ... what was the initial problem ? The one you’ve supposedly ‘fixed’ ? ...

B-Maniak · May 22, 2021

In fact I wasn't really fixing a problem. Just bought the bike, which was running well, put a new PC680, checked the spark plugs which were a little dark and changed the fuel connectors.

Then I saw that:

I decided to put some new sleeves and did a tool to disconnect all the wires from the connectors. After I've done pictures and wrote down cables position of course.

Looking closer I saw that the negative one got hot

So I decided to improve all connections

Sprayed the connectors and put everything back

Put the tank back also and when I started the bike, this strange noise appeared. I already started it 4 times, for a very short time, less than 10 seconds each.

Slipperyeel · May 22, 2021

What's a PC680?

If the fuel connectors were done are they the correct way around? Blocked? Pushed home? Which 'new' connectors did you use? Are the plugs the correct plug? Are they tightened properly?

Can see how the switch gear would do this? But electronics are not my friend

Sent from my SM-G975F using Tapatalk

Wrigsby1 · May 22, 2021

Slipperyeel said:
What's a PC680?

If the fuel connectors were done are they the correct way around? Blocked? Pushed home? Which 'new' connectors did you use? Are the plugs the correct plug? Are they tightened properly?

Can see how the switch gear would do this? But electronics are not my friend

Sent from my SM-G975F using Tapatalk

Looks like new battery... Bit more messing with connectors than initially explained...

B-Maniak · May 22, 2021

Slipperyeel said:
What's a PC680?

If the fuel connectors were done are they the correct way around? Blocked? Pushed home? Which 'new' connectors did you use? Are the plugs the correct plug? Are they tightened properly?

Can see how the switch gear would do this? But electronics are not my friend

Sent from my SM-G975F using Tapatalk

PC680 is Odyssey battery

New brass connectors come from Hornig

When pushed home, they are not leaking. If they were blocked or wrongly connected, bike wouldn't start at all I believe. Plugs are correct, well tightened. Compressions are good

B-Maniak · May 23, 2021

Wrigsby1 said:
Also sometimes if you have been generally buggering about starting and stopping the engine it will sound like shite once restarted as the injection has been running rich for cold start but hasn't got hot... All my oilheads have been reluctant to run smoothly after a quick start stop... Can be fairly random but if you hold the revs higher for a short while it will start to clear... A bit like a wet plug that needs to clear... Being a twin it can sound more dramatic than it is and being an oilhead you have to retune your mechanical sensitivity to tractor mode...
Hopefully yours is something like that...&#55357;&#56841;

Didn't want to hurt it :duno

Slipperyeel · Jun 1, 2021

Was this ever sorted?

A real mix of info. Left me puzzled and interested in what the issue was!

Sent from my SM-G975F using Tapatalk

B-Maniak · Jun 1, 2021

Hum, not yet. I've been crossing the spark plug leads from the coil, no change. Crossing injectors, no change. Crossing spark plugs no change. I'm waiting for new plugs. Still rough running and the left cylinder is always heating much more than the right one. And for a long time says the left header colour.

B-Maniak · Jun 6, 2021

Last news that make me close the thread.

First, Chris Harris https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mjEaLPjh7KQ ay at 7:43

Same noise easily disappearing

And, remember, always RTFM

B-Maniak · Jun 6, 2021

For the reasons above.

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