2004 GS1150 Fuel pump not priming

KingLurcher

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Hi All- first post here , kinda stuck here and confidence is wavering lol

History - bike has cut out last year on rides when slowing down but would then start again no probs. Happened once this year and last weekend stopped didn't start again. Recovered.

- i turn ignition and no fuel pump priming noise ( you can't miss it normally)
- Fuel level showing when on turning ignition , this goes off if kill switch is moved left/right and also if side stand down and gear selected. I am assuming the side stand switch and kill switch is working correctly.

I have buzzed out all fuses and swapped horn relay over for P/Relay etc . Relay clicks when ignition on .

12.6v from plug for tank on bike when switched on ( brown/green) , last approx 1 sec . Approx 10.5v when cranking.

I took tank off and cleaned connectors then tried feeding 12V direct to terminals on tank . No noise from pump. I am guessing this should have fired the pump up? If it should have maybe i should take the pump out and try it at source eliminating the wiring/plug?? any advice would be welcome , if i need a new pump , any suggestions ? Thanks
 
If you're sure you've got the right connectors on the block and there's still no noise from the pump after applying 12v directly then it does lean towards the pump is shot. I would recommend becoming a subscriber as at about £12 per year it opens up other features of the forum and will enable you to be able to send/receive private messages amongst other things. I'm not certain but I believe there is a replacement pump available that is usually for Audi 80's?

Make a cup of tea and try a search (not sure what options you have a non-subscriber?)
 
Thanks Hops , i made a cup of tea and subscribed ! Connectors on the tank Brown/Green - i will look for a pump they seem to vary in price enormously!
 
Compatible pump from an Audi 80 fits.
If you're going inside the tank firstly put lube on the M5 threads on the tank fuel plate threads as they can easily snap.
Do you know when the fuel filter was last changed?
 
Be careful with the 5mm studs and nuts - they're a bugger to repair if they snap.


And don't over-tighten the nuts when reassembling. For the sake of a couple of quid its worth changing the large 'O' ring on the back of the metal plate, no. 2 on this diagram.
 
Thanks Cook1e , i have now taken the pump out and yea- bit of wiggling req lol . tested pump again at source still nowt. Ordered new S/steel clips and a filter . didn't go with a new hoses , no signs of wear :) Cheers!
 
I've used one of these fuel performance pumps and they are pretty good. They come with a lifetime warranty and for me they replaced one of their pumps which failed after a couple of years, without quibble.

I trust you checked the old one is indeed faulty. Otherwise a failed ball sensor could be your problem!
 
Blinking autocorrect...I meant hall sensor...
 
ha ha , that got me Gorila - started panicking , what's a ball sensor lol , yep put 12V straight to it - nothing . Thats good to know someone else has used them successfully! Cheers!
 
Thanks Hops and Smelly old boots - yep bit fiddly trying to pull the pipe back enough to get the fuel pump off. Anyway all stripped back ready for new bits and a tank o ring .
Great to get some pointers - Cheers !
 


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