Just a stab in dark like one says, but how old is your battery, new battery are bigger and more power no packing.
https://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php/559823-1200-GSA-batteries-dead-battery-boost-no-help
Bike failed me again
- Thread starter ShakeyBMW
- Start date
Just a stab in dark like one says, but how old is your battery, new battery are bigger and more power no packing.
https://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php/559823-1200-GSA-batteries-dead-battery-boost-no-help
It’s a 6 month old Motobatt. I also had to remove the padding to get it in. The bike turns over really well on the new battery but just doesn’t fire.
Victor c
Registered user
When you switch the ignition on, can you hear the fuel pump priming up? I had the pump relay fail on my twin cam. And if it’s any consolation, my 2018 GSA has started to display an engine control warning and drops power to virtually nothing with a few metres. Needs a trip to the dealers when they can fit me in ��
Do you like riding it? Do you think you can find anything better? If this is the bike for you, just take out an extended warranty and enjoy the ride and don't worry about what it might happen in the future. I've had problems with both of my GSs but deep down, I know it's probably going to sit in my garage for a few years more.
What else have you looked at rather than just focussing on one particular thing
You may have lost fuel pressure? You may have a TPS issue showing below acceptable voltage etc etc ??
Can you see if the crank position sensor sending RPM info
If you put the GS911 in live data mode and spin it over the RPM Should rise
but if it still shows zero there is your culprit
If it does not know it is at TDC it does not know when to spark
Diagnose don;t focus on one area
You may have lost fuel pressure? You may have a TPS issue showing below acceptable voltage etc etc ??
Can you see if the crank position sensor sending RPM info
If you put the GS911 in live data mode and spin it over the RPM Should rise
but if it still shows zero there is your culprit
If it does not know it is at TDC it does not know when to spark
Diagnose don;t focus on one area
Wise words. In fact I have done exactly that and I can indeed see the RPM increase when I turn it over. I see timings for the injectors as well.
A La Mr Haynes, what I have done is to remove each stick coil and plug in turn, push the plug back into the coil, earth the plug body against the earth screw and turned the engine over. I got no spark on either plug.
The bike is sitting with no coils in but I’ve put the plugs back in. The engine spins just fine but I’m surprised to see that the bike seems to be unaware of the absence of the stick coils. I have no error codes whatsoever
I think it is a reasonable assumption that the stick coils are fubar at 40,000 miles so since I don’t have access to a spare set, I’ll splash out on a new pair from Motorworks.
Wise words. In fact I have done exactly that and I can indeed see the RPM increase when I turn it over. I see timings for the injectors as well.
A La Mr Haynes, what I have done is to remove each stick coil and plug in turn, push the plug back into the coil, earth the plug body against the earth screw and turned the engine over. I got no spark on either plug.
The bike is sitting with no coils in but I’ve put the plugs back in. The engine spins just fine but I’m surprised to see that the bike seems to be unaware of the absence of the stick coils. I have no error codes whatsoever
I think it is a reasonable assumption that the stick coils are fubar at 40,000 miles so since I don’t have access to a spare set, I’ll splash out on a new pair from Motorworks.
Do you not have friend close with BMW to let you try coils before buying.
The bike is sitting with no coils in but I’ve put the plugs back in. The engine spins just fine but I’m surprised to see that the bike seems to be unaware of the absence of the stick coils. I have no error codes whatsoever
I think it is a reasonable assumption that the stick coils are fubar at 40,000 miles so since I don’t have access to a spare set, I’ll splash out on a new pair from Motorworks.
Engine Management Unit will only see signals sent Not the after effects (Might show as Lamda's rich but not much else)
Same thing with the fuel pump controller It will never show as a fault as the ECU has sent the signal Possibly newer bikes will Vary or monitor fuel pressure and they may show an issue
Are the LC's twin Sparked??
Should run on lower sticks (If they still have them??)
Should run on lower sticks (If they still have them??)
Lc's are single sparked
I think it's unlikley the coils have failed.
One failing suddenly , yes possible...
Both failing together possible but highly unlikley ,
I would think the cols are fine, its the trigger unit / method of trigger thats sounds like the likly culprit
they generate there own voltages to cause the spark, but need a trigger from somewhere to tell them when to fire
Just checked, mind you it was a a hexhead pin out , but i cant see the lC coil being that much different
Pin 1 & 3 go to the low & high tension side of things pin 2 goes to earth from the HT< coils join with a one way diode, presumably to stop the high voltage being sent into the loom in general
so id say 1 pin to energise the coils , and the other is the trigger ... the downside it feeds from the eCu,
One failing suddenly , yes possible...
Both failing together possible but highly unlikley ,
I would think the cols are fine, its the trigger unit / method of trigger thats sounds like the likly culprit
they generate there own voltages to cause the spark, but need a trigger from somewhere to tell them when to fire
Just checked, mind you it was a a hexhead pin out , but i cant see the lC coil being that much different
Pin 1 & 3 go to the low & high tension side of things pin 2 goes to earth from the HT< coils join with a one way diode, presumably to stop the high voltage being sent into the loom in general
so id say 1 pin to energise the coils , and the other is the trigger ... the downside it feeds from the eCu,
I agree that it seems unlikely for both coils to fail within an hour of each other but as per my earlier post, the 911 showed errors “failed short to earth” for both coils.
The camshaft position sensor was replaced a few weeks ago.
If the engine controller had failed then surely I wouldn’t be able to read real-time values. The Haynes schematic doesn’t show another black box between the Motronic and the coils.
The camshaft position sensor was replaced a few weeks ago.
If the engine controller had failed then surely I wouldn’t be able to read real-time values. The Haynes schematic doesn’t show another black box between the Motronic and the coils.
What are you refering to as the motronic?
ISTR that’s a generic name for the ECU.
I read in the BMW RSD that it is necessary to reset the adaptations if you change the coil sticks so I gave that a go. No Joy.
Whilst I was at it I used the functions to drive the injectors and the fuel pump and all those work just fine.
I’ve ordered a pair of coils from Motorworks and will let you know.
Short to earth is just that a short somewhere in the electrical system
it may be that the plug to the coil has shorted to earth not the coils themselves
it may be that the plug to the coil has shorted to earth not the coils themselves
The 911 had specific fault codes for each coil and the fault count for each was different so in my mind that tends to guide me away from a single point of failure in (for example) the loom. According to the schematic in the Haynes manual, each coil has it’s own wiring from the computer. If there was a single point failure within the computer, surely there would be an error code?
I could check and clean the earth point on each coil loom but the failure of both of those would be as unlikely as both coils failing …
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Is it possible that the camshaft position sensor has slipped or gone bad? Electronic components tend to either die quickly after installation (burn in) or last forever
Dont forget the crankshaft sensor, that also plays a part ..
Infant mortality and the left hand side of the bathtub curve - I know what you mean. I was going to take the cover off and check this but the fact that I’m getting shaft RPM on the real-time values suggests it’s OK.
Actually, I think it was crankshaft RPM I saw measured. Might be worth popping the cover off then.
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