If this was an older oilhead, I'd be suspecting the ignition sensor or (more likely) the wiring to it.
Bike failed me again
- Thread starter ShakeyBMW
- Start date
If this was an older oilhead, I'd be suspecting the ignition sensor or (more likely) the wiring to it.
The ignition sensor was replaced by BMW as it was the cause of the last breakdown 6 weeks or so ago. I thought it was worth checking though so I had a look and did a quick cam alignment check whilst I was in there. In the first picture, the trigger assembly is removed to allow access to the cam bolt and a view of the sensor
Attachments
Going back to school so to speak ...
If i remember rightly the sequence of ignition used to be
key on :-
Energises fuel pump to prime - once prime has completed, fuel pump turns off
Ecu then looking for pulses from cam & crank sensor - (these are needed to work out where the ignition timing is / will be within the 3D map)
ignition to start - engine turns over and pulses from cam and crank sensors are generated
Coils then fire at xx degrees before TDC & injectors fire
ECU sees steady pulses from Cam & crank sensors & water temp air ratio etc so restarts fuel pump
ignition sequence completed
Sometimes you could hiccup a failing sensor by unplugging it and plugging it back in,
the voltage spike form reconnecting the sensor was enough to show a value to the ecu which would then have the required value to enable igintion start.
if i remember rightly it only needed a crank sensor position to work out TDC
This might help
https://www.hella.com/techworld/uk/Technical/Sensors-&-actuators/Camshaft-position-sensor-3899/
If i remember rightly the sequence of ignition used to be
key on :-
Energises fuel pump to prime - once prime has completed, fuel pump turns off
Ecu then looking for pulses from cam & crank sensor - (these are needed to work out where the ignition timing is / will be within the 3D map)
ignition to start - engine turns over and pulses from cam and crank sensors are generated
Coils then fire at xx degrees before TDC & injectors fire
ECU sees steady pulses from Cam & crank sensors & water temp air ratio etc so restarts fuel pump
ignition sequence completed
Sometimes you could hiccup a failing sensor by unplugging it and plugging it back in,
the voltage spike form reconnecting the sensor was enough to show a value to the ecu which would then have the required value to enable igintion start.
if i remember rightly it only needed a crank sensor position to work out TDC
This might help
https://www.hella.com/techworld/uk/Technical/Sensors-&-actuators/Camshaft-position-sensor-3899/
I’ll bear that in mind Santa, Thanks. The original failure was with the bike running though.
have you checked the loom particularly the coil circuits for rubbing/grounding that way ??
I’ll do that if replacing the coils doesn’t work. Logically I suppose it should be done first but since both coils appear to have independent circuits from the computer there should be no single point of failure (famous last words)
Igntion sensor is a generic term, Its actually a pulse generator the interuptence of the magnetic field it generates causes a pulse, that pulse or pulses are what tell the ecu & 3D map were things are
Have you tried passing a metal object back and forth (Not something you can drop) btw in close proximity to the generator to see if it is actually generating pulses ?
I’ve got the tank and airbox off and had a good look at the coil looms as far as I can. Once they go across the top of the pot they go into a conduit and are well protected against chafing.
I see that there is an earthing module located on top of the engine and with the connector facing forward so I guess that’s the next port of call to have a look at and apply some contact cleaner.
I see that there is an earthing module located on top of the engine and with the connector facing forward so I guess that’s the next port of call to have a look at and apply some contact cleaner.
Good time to check front shock for any leak, and bolts.
Both shocks recently refurbished
The GS gets under your skin - hope your bike is sorted for good.
Just came back from a 4 day weekend in Wales on my 2016 GS TE. Did the route in the Simon Weir book the tours. Clocked up 700 miles. Sunday was a ball breaker due to rain.
The bike though on scorpion trail 2 tyres was fantastic in the rain. Keep thinking should i change but the bike just "fits" the telever suspension is so good. Over cooked some bends and had to use the brake and the bike coped so well. Very forgiving and powerful enough.
Just came back from a 4 day weekend in Wales on my 2016 GS TE. Did the route in the Simon Weir book the tours. Clocked up 700 miles. Sunday was a ball breaker due to rain.
The bike though on scorpion trail 2 tyres was fantastic in the rain. Keep thinking should i change but the bike just "fits" the telever suspension is so good. Over cooked some bends and had to use the brake and the bike coped so well. Very forgiving and powerful enough.
Not surprisingly, changing the coil sticks didn’t solve the problem despite the error messages.
I also removed the CanSmart from the bus just in case it was causing issues, but it wasn’t.
Bike is now booked in to BMW a week on Monday. Running total so far is £1100 if I include the two new brake discs. Plus two buggered weekends and a lot of sunny days lost.
I also removed the CanSmart from the bus just in case it was causing issues, but it wasn’t.
Bike is now booked in to BMW a week on Monday. Running total so far is £1100 if I include the two new brake discs. Plus two buggered weekends and a lot of sunny days lost.
Have you tried the obvious?
Find the relevant coil plug pins in the ZFE plug and check them for continuity back to the coil plugs
No continuity, and ther's your answer
If youve replaced the coils and have the same fault its got to be either the ZFE or wiring
Find the relevant coil plug pins in the ZFE plug and check them for continuity back to the coil plugs
No continuity, and ther's your answer
If youve replaced the coils and have the same fault its got to be either the ZFE or wiring
Not surprisingly, changing the coil sticks didn’t solve the problem despite the error messages.
I also removed the CanSmart from the bus just in case it was causing issues, but it wasn’t.
Bike is now booked in to BMW a week on Monday. Running total so far is £1100 if I include the two new brake discs. Plus two buggered weekends and a lot of sunny days lost.
Another stab, did they do a software upgrade last time, that maybe did not go correctly.
stop stabbing ffs
diagnose the problem,completly unlikekly that both coils failed you should have sussed that really,wiring back to the zfe should have been checked first and then outputs from zfe,if you cant do that stop chucking money at it and get it diagnosed properly by someone with the know how and correct test equipment,windbag if the software wasnt right at time of download problem would have been evident straight away,
diagnose the problem,completly unlikekly that both coils failed you should have sussed that really,wiring back to the zfe should have been checked first and then outputs from zfe,if you cant do that stop chucking money at it and get it diagnosed properly by someone with the know how and correct test equipment,windbag if the software wasnt right at time of download problem would have been evident straight away,stop stabbing ffs
Only windbag here is you, mr correct always, nobody can try you always shout down people, and for info software can be bad still run and give minor problems, all depend on what did not get copy correctly, sp please keep insult to your small self.
I’ve checked the continuity today and it’s all fine. ZFE sounds expensive.
Continuity on all 6 wires? Y/N
roamer
Registered user
Hi shakey, you may have already checked, is there 12v at the stick coil plugs ignition on, ,
if there is you can check switching with the wire legs of a 501 capless bulb unfolded and placed in the coil multiplug, if you don't have a noid light,
the zfe may need a battery off re set for a short circuit, there are 2 fuses under the seat which you may have checked,
if there is you can check switching with the wire legs of a 501 capless bulb unfolded and placed in the coil multiplug, if you don't have a noid light,
the zfe may need a battery off re set for a short circuit, there are 2 fuses under the seat which you may have checked,
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