Micro Surgery on a Denso Alternator

Ian J Hartley

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My Denso Alternator let me down at a mere 29343 miles. Surprise surprise, it was not the usual failure of broken casing, but an electrical failure. No electrical output as recorded on the GS-911WIFI. Interestingly no fault codes logged anywhere, just the usual failure warning from the bike saying no charging, and of course really rough running.

So I took the alternator off the bike to bench test it, and sure enough the field windings have an open circuit. I eventually managed to strip the alternator down, the hardest part was removing the pulley, once done, I had access to the Rotor and the field windings. The fault was obvious. Corrosion had destroyed a very small portion of the copper winding giving a gap of about 2mm, which I had to bridge somehow, so I set about making a small metal sleeve which I could push the two ends of the broken wire into and solder up, making a solid connection.

It worked, and after coating the repair with electrical varnish/lacquer to prevent further corrosion. I was ready to reassemble.

I was always intending to fit the Bosch alternator as fitted to the RT, but there were none available second hand anywhere in the country and those from Europe and USA would have been a risk not worth taking. The Denso alternator gets a bad reputation for cases cracking up, but aside from that the alternator is really well built, and easy to strip and reassembly as it’s modular in construction. Which makes it a pity as there are no spare parts available either for it or the Bosch alternator. Failure and you’re either buying a second hand unit, or off to BMW to give your credit card a caning……:D
 

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Out of interest, whats the procedure to remove the altenator?

Fuel tank off, abs modulator then ecu holder?
 
Out of interest, whats the procedure to remove the altenator?

Fuel tank off, abs modulator then ecu holder?

Battery disconnected
Tupperware off
Fuel tank off
Crash bars off
Front timing cover off
Front shock off (you will need to support the front of the bike. I use a scissor Jack on the sump plate)
Alternator front cover off
Belt off (obviously)
Then disconnect alternator and unbolt and tease it forward out the front.

Install is the reverse.

Expensive job at the main dealer. A days job DIY.
 
Battery disconnected
Tupperware off
Fuel tank off
Crash bars off
Front timing cover off
Front shock off (you will need to support the front of the bike. I use a scissor Jack on the sump plate)
Alternator front cover off
Belt off (obviously)
Then disconnect alternator and unbolt and tease it forward out the front.

Install is the reverse.

Expensive job at the main dealer. A days job DIY.

I see you removed the the alternator hard way. :D

It can also be removed from the top without taking the shock or front timing cover off in about 30 minutes.

Tank off, ECU plastic holder off, alternator front plastic cover and belt off, and the small plastic surround up in front of the alternator... undo the three bolts and lift it up and out :D

You were very lucky the break was where it was. :thumb2
 
if it wasn't a denso one I have said ahh, German designed to fail copper

as fitted to multiple components on german cars - one has to love such specialised engineering, so clever that you can make an old vehicle in to brand new revenue stream 7 years after build -

eitherway, they have perfected alchemy base metal in to gold
 
Blimey Ian. Well done - on several fronts! To be honest, I always give up if there's a break in those things, I mean it's buried in the windings and probably merged/melted with the surrounding wire! But super impressed you were even able to repair it!

Sent from my SM-G975F using Tapatalk
 
Have to add my admiration and thanks for posting. Some job satisfaction in that task I bet.
 


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