Bolt Extraction!

mediamark

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Hi folks,

Whilst trying to drop the RHS pillion footpegs, in order to fit a Moto Pro pannier rack, I've managed to chew off the torx head of the rear-most bolt. Presumably, there's an excessive amount of threadlock on it.

I've pilot-holed the centre & tried to use easy outs to draw it out but they've (2 sets!) proved useless, as they're too soft to bite into the bolt.

Any suggestions??

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Those bolts can be stupid tight and locktighted, bit late now but always apply heat to any bmw major bolt fixing before attempting removal, only thing i can think of is drill the head off and heat the remaining stud up and use a decent stud remover

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If there's enough of the head remaining hammer in an oversize torx then heat it. Heat the the whole thing!
 
Are we talking about item 6 on this diagram? An M8?

Is there enough left to saw a slot into it and use a flat head screw driver and an adjustable spanner to turn?
 

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If there's enough of the head remaining hammer in an oversize torx then heat it. Heat the the whole thing!

That. Plus impact driver usually does the job.


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Thanks for the responses.

I've tried heating the bolt thru' the hole I've drilled with the shaft of a soldering iron (that's all I've got) to no effect.

I have tried chiselling into the 'rim' of what's left of the head to try & turn it, but without joy.

I suspect I'll have to get a larger drill bit to remove the head entirely.
 
Yes, the rear bolt on the rear peg.

I can't get anything, torx head, hex head, flat-blade screwdriver, to bite into it to turn it
 
The offending article!
 

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Ooof, that's nasty...... As has been mentioned I think I'd cut a slot with an old chisel on the edge for purchase, heat the fucker up to soften the thread lock and then try and tap it round using the slot. Worth a try :nenau

Andres
 
I’d have thought you could twat a torx bit into that with an impact driver? Needs decent amount of heat on it as well.
 
That's all well and good if the hole is in the centre and goes to the end of the thread? Drill the head off take out the other bolt and go from there

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That's all well and good if the hole is in the centre and goes to the end of the thread? Drill the head off take out the other bolt and go from there

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I think that's my only option, as I can't get anything in the hole that'll bite into the sides.

I daren't drill deeper in case I'm off centre & hit the frame.
 
Correct, Don't make matters worse!

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I had to use an impact gun on mine which in turn generated heat and eventually I got it off, only after snapping 2 expensive torx socket bits. It's a bit heath robinson but I had a similar issue with a brake caliper bolt and I got my brother in law to spot weld a bolt (thread end) onto the rounded head and then used a 12mm spanner on the bolt head to get it moving, worked a treat.
 
I’ve watched professionals ( on YT) weld nuts onto fractured bolts like that ; obviously becomes more difficult as the bolt disappears .


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I had to use an impact gun on mine which in turn generated heat and eventually I got it off, only after snapping 2 expensive torx socket bits. It's a bit heath robinson but I had a similar issue with a brake caliper bolt and I got my brother in law to spot weld a bolt (thread end) onto the rounded head and then used a 12mm spanner on the bolt head to get it moving, worked a treat.
Wrong way round! Heat first then undo, I've undone loads of these fitting pannier rails and never had a problem having used a Heat gun first

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Wrong way round! Heat first then undo, I've undone loads of these fitting pannier rails and never had a problem having used a Heat gun first

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I'm very aware of that. I don't have a heat gun, and heat wasn't even in my mind at the time. "Why won't this b@stard bolt come off" was very prominent though. I didn't expect it to put up quite the fight that it did but by the time it came out the bolt was red hot.
 


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