Traction control an flat spots

I've got a 2013 (63 plate) TB TC GSA and I can't say I've encountered this issue.

However, perhaps I don't wring its neck like some of you guys. If I want to wring the neck of a bike I'll take out my 2013 Ducati 1098 EVO Monster and run up its rev band.

My GSA does 17mph / 1000revs in top so at 4000 I'm cruising at 68 mph and at 5000 I'm doing 85mph down the French peage.
 
Because it is not really an existing problem. Even "wringing the bike's neck" to be honest.
 
It is quite interesting when you review the rides on connected app as this indicates where and when TCS, ABS events occur, it also indicates the lean angle which can be fun.

What connected App are you using to get this data.
 
My bike is a 2012 TC GS only mods are a full Remus and a pair of AF-XIED`s.
These were were on my previous 2009 GS without traction control and it would lift the front end with a pillion full throttle over 6000 rpm.
 
I find the twin cam traction control very gentle.
When making spirited overtakes with a pillion, ( low gear high revs) it keeps the front wheel on the ground or very close to it, which helps avoid a wheelie and the "pack it in" from SHMBO.

agree, its pretty subtle in most gears...

however if I give it the beans in first its game over if the front lifts in default mode - works really close to anti wheelie - which really surprises me. But if you need to get out the way of something and try hard as soon at the front comes down (I guess its when the front lifts with little/no road speed and the back is getting full acceleration from rest), then it goes totally mad - unless in S mode when it goes up the road normally,
 
That's not on a TC Hexhead!

You're talking LC BMW!
To be fair I never suggested it was, i was simply pointing out how interesting it is to view the events and how often they occur.

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I find the twin cam traction control very gentle.
When making spirited overtakes with a pillion, ( low gear high revs) it keeps the front wheel on the ground or very close to it, which helps avoid a wheelie and the "pack it in" from SHMBO.


You've reminded me of something.

When I bought my TC, after about 2wks of familiarising myself with it and growing confidence, I actually thought I'd try a wheelie or two. But I just couldn't get a hint of persuasion into it. After another 2wks I realised it has this TCS !

But I think you're right, it seems to be quite gentle. Wet leaves are the most noticeable time I've seen it come in, wet cobble stones as well. Otherwise I'm riding so responsibly I never see it

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I had a play today to see if I can get first key turn to give me S from the get go - its not looking promising

FYI re retrofit - until the VO is right, the ASC switch doesn't communicate with the bike and although enabling in the engine ECU gets the fuel pump to reset and some grumblings / stepper motor actuation under the tank - when riding no ASC and the orange waring triangle is always illuminated

Playing today

Cluster - ASC option displayed - yes / no (its just enabling the ability to see self test at start up, what the switch is doing, throw errors, and flash some lights when operating)

ABS - there is either no link to the brakes (its just killing the engine power) and or nothing to change in the ABS module

Engine ECU 3 bits
1) ASC installed - yes / no
2) ASC activated GS mode - yes / no
3) ASC2 activated - yes / no



so tried this in engine ECU
1) ASC fitted - to deactivated - flashing self test of ASC stops and stays illuminated and the ASC button appears to do nothing (not unduly surprising)
3) ASC2 fitted - to deactivated - flashing self test of ASC stops and stays illuminated and the ASC button appears to do nothing (which is disappointing)

gave up at this point - never started it or test drove - had I got S instead of the A circled by its triangle I'd have gone for a ride
 
the trouble with electronics

leany over modern traction control on 1200 GS LC bikes with rider mode dongle in situ - straight line acceleration - warm tyres - warm tarmac - very high grip surface.... 110kg rider - relaxed slightly forward stance - ride in first gear at 2500rpm, then as fast as possible snatch and hold on full throttle

rain - instant misfire moves forward like a granny on black ice - Remember to never ever touch this mode for the rest of your life

road - almost instantaneous misfire moves forward like a country walk - Remember to never ever touch this mode for the rest of your life

dynamic - two metres of forward motion when a halfwit computer with no comprehension of the road conditions, tyre temp, grip coefficient, rider skill, etc. decides the world has ended and brings in significant misfire having moved forward like a brisk walk - Remember to never touch this mode for the rest of your life

enduro - four metres of forward progress with the front just getting some air then hideous misfire and the front wheel smashes against the ground, looks like you can't ride - Remember to never bother with this mode for rest of your life

enduro pro - six metres of actual acceleration and you think at last I own a 1200cc bike... shortly followed by very lively front wheel lift... rider rolls back the throttle to control rate of lift, front lift rate declining rapidly and by now its abundantly obvious the engine has now passed the point in its power curve where it has enough grunt left to hold the front up in the air, so the rider rolls back on the power in the hope of looking like they can ride and maintain successful forward motion.... when suddenly the electronics arrive late to the party - queue inappropriate unwanted intervention, it then compounds its incompetence / lateness by misinterpreting the more alert rider's reactions and goes in to melt down, get off, have a coffee and wait for a bit as the dim computer tries to remember what it was supposed to do next - sell the bike

under these conditions above - it simply can't make enough power to come close to loosing grip on the rear tyre - when you compare to the way KTM originally managed it BMW never got close to helping


KTM leany over TC

rain - gutless horrid moped - similar to rain on a BMW
road - gutless horrid 125
street - far more acceleration than enduro pro on a 1200 GS LC but no front wheel lift and no perceptible assistance it just works
sport - utter head banging lunacy of well judged electronic assistance. The rider just points in the right direction and holds it nailed as you smash through the gears - results in a perfect 10" power wheelie from 0 to 110mph with the exhaust farting and coughing all the way - safe composed electronic nanny

so of course they need to resolve that success - hence recall for "electronics update" and sport turns into a good impression of enduro pro incompetent madness - sell the bike

get back on the old GS
 
all air cooled bikes with ASC get three options

Off
On (default)
S (but its NOT Sport, the S is from the S of the GS name - as in off road mode - and is to allow a more sporty feel to get the back to tighten a line off road)

on my ramblings about throttle response and flat spots (vx800 and GS with booster plug...) on a few occasions I was saying its as if they built in traction control in the base map.... and they more or less did !!! Was is a fudge for noise regs or an attempt to stop it clashing with the ASC?

It has such massive gaps in the power curve its doesn't bother the ASR as the bike can't make enough go to push the rear tyre - any more than an 80 year old granny on a bicycle can. But as you try to fix the fuelling you can get in a pickle where a positive change in fuelling ends up with no discernible change on the road. So you go backwards and get confused.... Until you realise the ASC was holding the bike back and not the fuelling !

As you had the key off to change the engine map it reverts to cabbage mode. So long as you go to S mode the positive changes you make to the fuelling make sense and you unlock massive performance potential on the early bikes.

The reason I mention the Twin Cam Bikes, I guess they got the balance better and the engine runs better till the ASC in default setting with stock semi-off road tyres does cuts in under hard acceleration. On my Hex bike its the engine map holding it back. And of course without a change in fuelling it doesn't matter if you have default or S mode selected as its just a chasm of hell when nothing happens

If any with a with a Twin Cam bike doesn't believe me, fill with super unleaded let it settle till it almost makes some power and with it warned up in second gear on an empty road from 2800rpm just nail it on full throttle and stare at the instruments - it will be flickering like an idiot and will hold back. Then toggle to S mode and it drives up the road correctly. Depending on how flat your bike is, you might need to use first for it to have enough go to bother the tyre. Its all a combination of grip and rider effort

My bike is a 2010 twin cam, it will lift the front wheel in second, and then anti wheelie cuts in as it is supposed to do.

I think you might be looking for a GSXR RRRR rather than a GS :blast

The power from my twin cam bike is more than adequate, go buy a 160+ bhp KTM if you want. Personally I don’t think it’s needed, because I’m happy with the size of my todger and don’t feel the need to supplement it with mega horsepower.

Maybe stop riding dual carriageways and motorways :D

Ps, I didn’t even realise it had rain mode, I thought it was on or off and abs on or off :blast


Now, the first of the water cooled bikes……they were shite!

The traction control programming was a mile out….but they have since reprogrammed it a few times iirc.
 
in the cut and thrust of halfwits near London today..... forgot to take out of default mode after stopping and went to pull away remotely briskly off the line (say 20% of the bikes capability) ASC cuts in and caused a massive cough and an unnecessary wobble. Frankly for those of you that never knew of or don't normally use S mode I'm mot sure how you ride the bike ?

S mode allows 100% of its capability to get off the line, so you can achieve the whole purpose of a owning a bike (and stay safe out there) whilst the default mode is worse than the cyclists on soccer aid last night
 
in the cut and thrust of halfwits near London today..... forgot to take out of default mode after stopping and went to pull away remotely briskly off the line (say 20% of the bikes capability) ASC cuts in and caused a massive cough and an unnecessary wobble. Frankly for those of you that never knew of or don't normally use S mode I'm mot sure how you ride the bike ?

S mode allows 100% of its capability to get off the line, so you can achieve the whole purpose of a owning a bike (and stay safe out there) whilst the default mode is worse than the cyclists on soccer aid last night

Honestly, and please don’t take this the wrong way, but you are spouting so much bollocks that I feel you should get yourself on tik tok :D

I think your bike must be faulty.

I had the front wheel pawing the ground coming out of a roundabout yesterday in second gear with no TC intervention. When I say roundabout, obviously I mean maggots at Silverstone (just behind Jack Millar, who I managed to overtake by taking to the grass (thank goodness for TKC’s)).
 
Flipfly, the only one making up insults and being wrong is you

I wrote facts - it only takes a split second lag to be in the wrong place and a car can tag you - then its game over.... used S mode it doesn't happen, use default and it can and often does.
 
I'm beginning to wonder why he's even bothered to try to retrofit traction control to his bike when he clearly despises it. Not got it on my 06 GSA and tbh I don't feel I need it.
 
I'm beginning to wonder why he's even bothered to try to retrofit traction control to his bike when he clearly despises it. Not got it on my 06 GSA and tbh I don't feel I need it.

I only wanted it to protect the driveline on our bad roads and ideally if it only ever fired up in S mode. I have no idea why anyone who has ASC hasn't noticed the default mode is just problematic and annoying, whilst S mode is perfect - helps when really needed otherwise totally unobtrusive

FYI my K1300 was exactly the same - but with a bit more poke the default mode really presented with some catastrophic sounding noises that scared the f*** out of you... all never there in Sport (on the GT I suspect the shock of 140bhp being instantaneous cut dead got the engine to move on it mounts with an almighty bang - when you had it in Sport it was faster smoother and never made noises like the crank just became a two piece unit if you accelerated past 8k rpm on >80% throttle in first)
 


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