Traction control an flat spots

Flipfly, the only one making up insults and being wrong is you

I wrote facts - it only takes a split second lag to be in the wrong place and a car can tag you - then its game over.... used S mode it doesn't happen, use default and it can and often does.

Sorry but you are wrong, there has to be something wrong with your bike.

I haven’t noticed any issues with mine, it rides just fine.

You are the only one that seems to have the problem, and whilst I appreciate it must be frustrating for you, repeating yourself 1000 times will not change the fact that you seem to be alone in this ‘dangerous’ trait of the bike. That would suggest that your ‘retrofit’ is the issue and not an inherent weakness of the motorcycle.
 
if you read my first post in this thread.... my first experience of traction control on any motorcycle (after riding for bikes for more than 40 years) was a 1200 twin cam adventure, approved used demo, handed over to me with a fully warmed up engine...

within 200 metres I could feel something wrong with bike.... S mode fixed it. So its not me or my bike its the over cautious implementation in the default mode - which ought to be noticeable to any rider.... (just like it is on my hex 1200 and was on my K1300 and indeed on the 1200TC).
 
How many owners notice the traction control light come on regularly?

When I first test rode a TC (circa 2011) they had given me a warmed up bike and I instantly noticed its misfire / hold back within 200m of the dealership. As I got more used to the bike and the roads quietened down I realised it was traction control interference on any large throttle application around 4k mark. Swapping to what I thought was "sport" (for all intends and purposes) made it ride down the road with throttle cable correctly making the back wheel turn as instructed by the rider

Having just had ASC added to my old 2007 bike running sporty road tyres its the same. It will interfere at any point in a straight line under full acceleration when there is no possible hope of a loss of traction. BUT I have found this is only when you corrected the horrendous wrong fuelling.

Set up the way BMW do it the bike can't make enough power to make the TC cut in. But correct the over fuelling so it runs correctly and TC is on all day long. So you must select S mode before trying to ride the bike. The other dangerous issue with the default setting is pulling away it frequently has a moment and just dies - leaving you stranded and in dangerous situations. In S mode this can't happen, the bike is just safe with some extra drive line protection as you smash in and out of the craters we call roads.

I have just read your first post on this again and you are talking total bollocks

Traction control is only triggered when the sensors detect a differential in wheel speed. I.E the back wheel is losing grip as it tries to drive the bike forwards where you claim that there is no possible loss of traction. It is sensor monitored not fueling

The S mode to which you keep referring adjusts the level of TC interference, Enduro ( or whatever it is called) pretty much turns it off allowing the rear to spin up

I will admit that in "Rain Mode" it can be overly obtrusive but other than that on the 2 Gs i owned, a hex head and a LC the TC only kicked in when i was a ham fisted idiot on cattle grids and the like so either your bike is fucked or you are a hamfisted idiot
 
I have just read your first post on this again and you are talking total bollocks

Traction control is only triggered when the sensors detect a differential in wheel speed. I.E the back wheel is losing grip as it tries to drive the bike forwards where you claim that there is no possible loss of traction. It is sensor monitored not fueling

The S mode to which you keep referring adjusts the level of TC interference, Enduro ( or whatever it is called) pretty much turns it off allowing the rear to spin up

I will admit that in "Rain Mode" it can be overly obtrusive but other than that on the 2 Gs i owned, a hex head and a LC the TC only kicked in when i was a ham fisted idiot on cattle grids and the like so either your bike is fucked or you are a hamfisted idiot

Funny too that most report needing to run the fuelling richer to sort out the overly lean AFR that BM have as standard :D

I feel your assessment is correct on both counts :D
 
I have just read your first post on this again and you are talking total bollocks

Traction control is only triggered when the sensors detect a differential in wheel speed. I.E the back wheel is losing grip as it tries to drive the bike forwards where you claim that there is no possible loss of traction. It is sensor monitored not fueling

The S mode to which you keep referring adjusts the level of TC interference, Enduro ( or whatever it is called) pretty much turns it off allowing the rear to spin up

I will admit that in "Rain Mode" it can be overly obtrusive but other than that on the 2 Gs i owned, a hex head and a LC the TC only kicked in when i was a ham fisted idiot on cattle grids and the like so either your bike is fucked or you are a hamfisted idiot


the ASC has two levels of intervention -

in default mode
1) mild holding back under a very slight differential of two wheels speed sensors that have been giving a steady matching output
2) an abrupt total cut of power, where it more often than not mistakenly believes there is a significant lost of rear wheel traction

the first is mildly irritating and could be undetected by an average rider (as appears to be the case with many replies here)
the second comes to light under more spirited riding and can be irritating and is often dangerous when pulling away or needing full power - where the limitation of the system misunderstands the lively change in rear wheel speed over the lagging delayed response from the front which might be late to the party if the front gets a little air borne

in S mode
1) is seldom triggered (except in very low grip situations where you shouldn't be trying so hard)
2) the level of differential is expanded slightly over coming all the pitfalls of the default setting

S still gives substantial wheel spin control by limiting excessive spin, allowing a skilled vehicle user to make sensible use of minute levels of speed differential to extract higher performance and gain more fun from their vehicle....

default mode cuts in well before any obvious loss of grip becomes problematic to a skilled rider.

Off
is what allows uncontrol slip of the rear wheel
 
the ASC has two levels of intervention -

in default mode
1) mild holding back under a very slight differential of two wheels speed sensors that have been giving a steady matching output
2) an abrupt total cut of power, where it more often than not mistakenly believes there is a significant lost of rear wheel traction

the first is mildly irritating and could be undetected by an average rider (as appears to be the case with many replies here)
the second comes to light under more spirited riding and can be irritating and is often dangerous when pulling away or needing full power - where the limitation of the system misunderstands the lively change in rear wheel speed over the lagging delayed response from the front which might be late to the party if the front gets a little air borne

in S mode
1) is seldom triggered (except in very low grip situations where you shouldn't be trying so hard)
2) the level of differential is expanded slightly over coming all the pitfalls of the default setting

S still gives substantial wheel spin control by limiting excessive spin, allowing a skilled vehicle user to make sensible use of minute levels of speed differential to extract higher performance and gain more fun from their vehicle....

default mode cuts in well before any obvious loss of grip becomes problematic to a skilled rider.

Off
is what allows uncontrol slip of the rear wheel

Get yourself off to MotoGP, there’s a few positions left unsecured :rolleyes:

Maybe most of us don’t have the issue because spirited riding means we are usually in 4-6th gear and not doing 30 in 1st and 2nd gear :D
 


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