Mechanically noisy at idle when warm

Sgt.Cupid

Sgt.Cupid

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Hi guys, need to find a quick fix as I'm booked on the Santander ferry on Monday. My 2005 75k 1200 GS has been very mechanically noisy on idle ( NB. Valves and end float are in spec. ) for a while and I was expecting a throttle balance to sort it so just had it done.
When I collected the bike it was started from cold and sounded spot on. By the time I got home and the bike was properly warm it was back to a bag of spanners. Whipped out the plugs and the right hand pair looked fine but the left pair where black and sooty, they where due a change so replaced all with new ones and went out for a ride but no change to noisy idle when warm. Got back and let it idle on the drive and disconnected the left hand stick coils and it still ran on right pot only, tried it the other way round and and it cut out. So something defo not right with left pot.
BTW, it seems to ride fine and pulls well through the rest of the rev range and it has Nightrider AF-XiED units fitted. I have had a quick search and usual suspects seem to be TPS, Idle Control(is this a different term for the stepper motors) and Lambda sensors.
Is there anything else I should be checking?

I'm aware that you can get a non BMW TPS units at a better price, is this the same for the other units ? If so can you point in the right direction, please.
Need to try and source the bits tomorrow.

TIA.
 
You are welcome to come to mine to swap some bits around if you like. 06 GSA. I won't be in until this afternoon though. Or tomorrow. Probably too late to get parts if needed. Pm me for phone number if you want to try. I'll pick it up when I get home early afternoon.
Silly question but what oil are you using. Mine clatters around a lot more when hot on thinner oils. 20/50 or 15/50 semi and it's much quieter.
 
Thanks, will pm you.
I'm on 20/50 mineral oil. Engine sounds fine when started from cold.


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It’s pointless disconnecting both coils on the same side. You need to disconnect the LOWER secondary plugs on BOTH sides (simply pull out the lead connection on the coil), then start the bike and see if it idles and runs on both cylinders. If it only runs on one side then swop the main coils over and see if the problem moves to the other side, if so then you’ve found the problem
 
Ok thanks.
I've removed left side lambda sensor and it was completely black and sooted up. Need to find out how to test it
BMW want £180 but an NGK (0072) one is around £65.

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Sgt.Cupid said:
Ok thanks.
I've removed left side lambda sensor and it was completely black and sooted up. Need to find out how to test it
BMW want £180 but an NGK (0072) one is around £65.

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Click to expand...

Just disconnect them both and it will default to a base map

See if it runs any better then ?
 
Sgt.Cupid said:
Ah nice, didn't know that.
Will the AF XiED make any difference?

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Shouldn't really as there is no signal to modify but You would need an AF XiED Aficionado to confirm

The fact you have a sooty Lamda probe indicates to me that it won't be managing to send correct signals if it is buried in soot
 
Popell said:
Swapping afxieds is still valid test as a malfunctioning one could send that side rich.
Couldn’t it?
Click to expand...
Maybe do that if I have enough time, or just disconnect them for the trip.
I have picked up a used lambda sensor from a 21k bike that I've fitted and taken for a quick 5 mile run. Idle when warm was still rougher than when cold but seemed a little better than before. Also not much changed when I disconnected secondary coils did the primary stick coil swap.

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Popell said:
Swapping afxieds is still valid test as a malfunctioning one could send that side rich.
Couldn’t it?
Click to expand...

Better to start with basics

The lamda sends info to the ECU

remove the lamda from the system and it defaults to a set map

The lamda no longer influences fuelling

Does it run better when hot ??? Then the lamda was quite likely faulty

If it doesn;t run better then further investigation is needed

All for the simple action of unplugging two plugs ?
 
Planning to try with disconnected lambda sensors today.
I'm guessing the system immediately defaults to standard values, no need to wait for it to 'learn' anything, so a quick warm up ride should be sufficient as I'm running out of time.



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I would think get it up to working temp on the gauge for 10 mins or so whilst riding Not just idling

Also worth Bunging in a dose of Fuel injector cleaner and running on super unleaded

AFTER You have carried out this test

Some folks throw a lot of solutions at problems all at the same time and then you never know what fixed it

You should be able to grab a couple of plugs for pre twin cam 1200 Hexheads in Halfords DCPR8EKC Stock Number 7168 If you want Iridium its DCPR8EIX and Stock number 6546

Which might also be a worthy cheap easy test

Its a shame you haven;t a GS 911 nearby that you could watch live values on whilst running
 
Thanks, I've just been told I can borrow an old GS911 that needs plugging into a laptop, not wireless.
I have no idea how to use one though. Do I need to download the software on the laptop and then just plug it in whilst it's connected to the OBD connector?
BTW, I have replaced all the plugs with new EKC's

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Sgt.Cupid said:
Thanks, I've just been told I can borrow an old GS911 that needs plugging into a laptop, not wireless.
I have no idea how to use one though. Do I need to download the software on the laptop and then just plug it in whilst it's connected to the OBD connector?
BTW, I have replaced all the plugs with new EKC's

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If you plug the GS911 into the laptop with the cable It should prompt you to download the correct file

It should direct you to https://www.hexcode.co.za

https://www.hexcode.co.za/products/gs-911/support

Why don't you try unplugging both Lamdas and going out for a 20 minute run ??

(Make sure and secure the plugs they can burn on the exhausts )


My thoughts are Fuelling

What controls fuelling ?? Lamda adjusts mixtures for emissions when warm

So a Lamda covered in soot won;t send the correct signals

ALSO an Injector that is partially clogged or maybe not sealing properly and "misting" the fuel vapour would also cause a bad "burn" Hence my suggestion for Injector cleaner but only after you remove the lamda from the equation
 
Cheers, thanks.
I filled up with Esso premium yesterday, will buy some injector cleaner later.
Have got a couple of hours tonight and tomorrow morning to do what I can before I have to leave and put myself in the hands of fate and European breakdown cover

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Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
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