Re using redundant ABS cancel butten

Great idea.
What is a latching relay? I've used normal relays many times but never heard of a latching relay.
Cheers
 
Great idea.
What is a latching relay? I've used normal relays many times but never heard of a latching relay.
Cheers

Fran'll make it clear...

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/H2ABlwS1sbI" title="YouTube video player" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>
 
Fran'll make it clear...

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/H2ABlwS1sbI" title="YouTube video player" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>


Clever stuff. Thanks for the linky:thumb2
 
The way I did this was to take a +ve direct from the battery to a standard normally open 12v automotive relay and took a trigger from the front sidelight to switch the relay. This then gave me a 12v supply that switched on with the ignition (and also with the parking light!). I took this 12v to a latching relay (durite 0-728-02) as the power supply to the spotlights and also as the power supply to the solenoid within the relay. I then used the redundant ABS cancel switch on the other side of the relay solenoid as a switched ground path. When the ABS switch it pressed momentarily it provides a ground path that powers up the solenoid in the latching relay and switches the power either on or off to the spotlights. It works really well and is a neat solution I think.
 
The way I did this was to take a +ve direct from the battery to a standard normally open 12v automotive relay

You may want to consider an in-line fuse near the battery, just in case of e.g. chafed wiring. :rob

It works really well and is a neat solution I think.

Nicely done - I find it useful if only to disconnect the spots when going for an MoT :green gri
 
Nicely done - I find it useful if only to disconnect the spots when going for an MoT :green gri

Why would you disconnect the spots for the MOT.? Mine went straight though with the spots on.
 
Why would you disconnect the spots for the MOT.? Mine went straight though with the spots on.

Never actually tried MoT with them switched on, but they're technically illegal, as are my HID dip & main, so I don't want to push it.
 
You may want to consider an in-line fuse near the battery, just in case of e.g. chafed wiring. :rob



Nicely done - I find it useful if only to disconnect the spots when going for an MoT :green gri

Did that, fuse a couple of inches from battery connection. Electrics 101😀
 
I also found a simple solution to tidying up the redundant speed sensors by simply cutting the cable and facing them off in the lathe to leave a smooth finish. I think they look ok
 

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The way I did this was to take a +ve direct from the battery to a standard normally open 12v automotive relay and took a trigger from the front sidelight to switch the relay. This then gave me a 12v supply that switched on with the ignition (and also with the parking light!). I took this 12v to a latching relay (durite 0-728-02) as the power supply to the spotlights and also as the power supply to the solenoid within the relay. I then used the redundant ABS cancel switch on the other side of the relay solenoid as a switched ground path. When the ABS switch it pressed momentarily it provides a ground path that powers up the solenoid in the latching relay and switches the power either on or off to the spotlights. It works really well and is a neat solution I think.

R1150GS Adventure which has had servoectomy. Ii want to do exactly the same as OP.

There's continuity between pins 11 & 12 when the ABS button is held down, and the moment you lift your finger off it breaks. Three questions:

1) Is this why you need a latching relay, because the ABS button doesn't stay down?
2) The Durite relay OP used costs a whopping £26 on eBay and there are various cheaper ones. Any recommendations or ones to avoid?
3) Bike has a Healtech Thunderbox fitted. I assume I can power lights and latching relay from this bypassing need for the other relay mentioned above?

Thank you.
 
R1150GS Adventure which has had servoectomy. Ii want to do exactly the same as OP.

There's continuity between pins 11 & 12 when the ABS button is held down, and the moment you lift your finger off it breaks. Three questions:

1) Is this why you need a latching relay, because the ABS button doesn't stay down?
2) The Durite relay OP used costs a whopping £26 on eBay and there are various cheaper ones. Any recommendations or ones to avoid?
3) Bike has a Healtech Thunderbox fitted. I assume I can power lights and latching relay from this bypassing need for the other relay mentioned above?

Thank you.

Hiya, re your questions

1) yes, that’s why you need a latching relay because the ABS switch is a momentary switch which only connects whilst it’s held down

2) the durite relay was indeed expensive, but it’s still working ok on my bike 8000 miles later

3) dunno! Not familiar with the thunderbox

Good luck with the mod. I’m still pleased with how it worked out on mine
 
Thank you, Mad Hatter. I've ordered the Durite relay.
 


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