Re using redundant ABS cancel butten

Mad Hatter

Mad Hatter

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So…having just ridden 2k miles around France with knackered ABS (residual braking only on rear circuit) I decided to do a servoectomy using the easy method detailed here. This was a doddle and has left me with an ABS cancel button on the RH switchgear that isn’t being used……

Has anyone who has deleted the ABS used the cancel button for another purpose? I’m thinking about using it as a momentary switch to trigger a latching relay that controls a pair of fog lights. I already have the fog lights fitted, but currently they are switched by a standalone switch on the bars which is difficult to find easily in the dark and entails taking a hand off the bars to reach the switch.

I reckon that using the suitably repurposed ABS button would be much better because it’s reachable by thumb without taking my hands off the bars.

Thoughts…..?
 
Ejector seat? :nenau
Could be handy if you’re about to get twatted by a car. :D
 
Mad Hatter said:
Does anyone have a PDF of the wiring diagram for an 1150GS?
Click to expand...

ABS wiring information for the twin spark is a bit sketchy.

The right hand combination switch unit terminates at a 12 way connector block under the fuel tank Center position.

I believe, though it is worth checking, that pin 11 Brown/green and pin 12 Brown/yellow are the two wires which go to the ABS switch.


Either way, the connector block is where all the switches from the right switch gear connect into the bikes main harness. So disconnecting at that point and continuity testing to the switches should tell you all you need to know.
 

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Ian J Hartley said:
ABS wiring information for the twin spark is a bit sketchy.

The right hand combination switch unit terminates at a 12 way connector block under the fuel tank Center position.

I believe, though it is worth checking, that pin 11 Brown/green and pin 12 Brown/yellow are the two wires which go to the ABS switch.


Either way, the connector block is where all the switches from the right switch gear connect into the bikes main harness. So disconnecting at that point and continuity testing to the switches should tell you all you need to know.
Click to expand...



Thanks Ian. I’ve only got the wiring diagram in the Haynes manual, and while it’s shows the ABS cancel switch it only shows a single black wire going from the switch to the ABS control unit. It doesn’t show what the other terminal of the switch connects to. I pulled the handlebar switch apart to try and see which wires in the loom go to the ABS switch but it wasn’t possible to disassemble it enough to see. I think what I’ll need to do tomorrow is get the multimeter out and test each pin in the connector where the handlebar switch loom connects to the rest of the loom under the tank. What wiring diagram do you have that shows the brown/green and brown/yellow?
 
Mad Hatter said:
What wiring diagram do you have that shows the brown/green and brown/yellow?
Click to expand...

I don’t. I have it from my notes.

I mapped most of the wiring years ago just before I installed all my additional electrical accessories. I’m quoting the main harness colour coding as the wiring from the connector to the switches sometimes uses different colour wires.
 
Ah ha…..I just checked my connector block and the wiring colours are the same as in your image. I’ll report back tomorrow when I’ve tested ��
 
Mad Hatter said:
Has anyone who has deleted the ABS used the cancel button for another purpose? I’m thinking about using it as a momentary switch to trigger a latching relay that controls a pair of fog lights.


Thoughts…..?
Click to expand...

I did exactly that with LED spots a few years ago. I have 2 relays in series, one triggered from the main-beam warning light so they only come on with main beam, then the latching relay triggered from the redundant ABS button. I can't remember if the ABS switch already has a live feed, but I don't remember it being difficult to wire up.

Wiring diagrams here may help LINKY
 
Good luck using the Wiring diagrams for the pre twin spark. There are some significant wire changes carried out for the twin spark upgrade.

Additional wiring is:-

Servo ABS wiring harness
Fuse circuit added for low beam.
Fuse circuit added for high beam
Additional relay added for loading of stick coils
Daylight running low beam.
Additionally many of the connectors were replaced for weather proofing.
Additional wiring to the diagnostic connector
Upgraded Motronic and additional wiring for stick coils.

I’m sure there is more……
 
You could use it for one of those Clingon cloaking devices so no one would see your hooliganism? :nenau
 
If I recall correctly

I once used an ABS button on an 1150 to replace a dodgy Indicator switch only to find it worked back to front

Indicators were normally open switches and made contact when pushed to switch on indicators

Whereas ABS were normally Made and pushed to break the circuit
 
Ian, the wiring from the thumb switch to the connector checked out exactly per your advice. Thanks 😀
 
Just to close off, I did the mod to use the redundant ABS switch for my spotlights and it worked a treat ��
 
Glad you got sorted :thumb

Anything you could add here to help those in the future who may wish to re-purpose their ABS button? e.g. photos, relay type/source, wiring diagram...
 
Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
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