Rider lower footpeg options???

Big Si

Big Si

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In an attempt to ease the pressure a little on my ageing knees :mad: I have been looking at different ways and makes of lower foot peg kits, eg. oem BMW, Wunderlich, SW Motech etc. I already have the front of the seat on 'high' and I'm on tip toe to reach the ground so I don't want to go for a higher seat.

I would appreciate any thoughts, experiences and recommendations on the subject.....cheers. :thumb
 
lower pegs

I have tried the BMW billet alloy pegs which are great and should be standard fit for the price of a new GS
They give three height options with rubber top that drops to steel pins when you stand.
I felt they were a long way back for my size 8 boots and returned to the wider Fastway pegs from Nippy Normans, that I have used for years 9even though I don't do off road.
These are quality stainless and allow you to fit the pivot 20mm lower, to me, they are wider and even though they only have spike tops the extra weight means they don't transfer as much of the engine vibes.

Hope this helps, but a bit like seats everyone has different requirements and likes
 
Nick dj said:
I have tried the BMW billet alloy pegs which are great and should be standard fit for the price of a new GS
They give three height options with rubber top that drops to steel pins when you stand.
I felt they were a long way back for my size 8 boots and returned to the wider Fastway pegs from Nippy Normans, that I have used for years 9even though I don't do off road.
These are quality stainless and allow you to fit the pivot 20mm lower, to me, they are wider and even though they only have spike tops the extra weight means they don't transfer as much of the engine vibes.

Hope this helps, but a bit like seats everyone has different requirements and likes
Click to expand...

I have BMW 3 hole pegs, due to recall usa now only 2 holes, but still very good
 
I'm using these, albeit on a twin-cam hexhead: https://sw-motech.com/en/products/ergonomics/footrests/4052572039274.htm They're very solidly made but, like any adjustable footpeg, they move your feet outwards which means potentially twisting your ankles to reach the gear and brake pedals. Ask yourself how much lowering you need, remembering you'll probably have to adjust the pedals to suit, assuming that's possible on a water-cooled (the hexhead doesn't take well to it).
 
Bear said:
I'm using these, albeit on a twin-cam hexhead: https://sw-motech.com/en/products/ergonomics/footrests/4052572039274.htm They're very solidly made but, like any adjustable footpeg, they move your feet outwards which means potentially twisting your ankles to reach the gear and brake pedals. Ask yourself how much lowering you need, remembering you'll probably have to adjust the pedals to suit, assuming that's possible on a water-cooled (the hexhead doesn't take well to it).
Click to expand...

never adjust touch rear brake pedal or disaster will follow on wethead. :beerjug:
 
Nick dj said:
I have tried the BMW billet alloy pegs which are great and should be standard fit for the price of a new GS
They give three height options with rubber top that drops to steel pins when you stand.
I felt they were a long way back for my size 8 boots and returned to the wider Fastway pegs from Nippy Normans, that I have used for years 9even though I don't do off road.
These are quality stainless and allow you to fit the pivot 20mm lower, to me, they are wider and even though they only have spike tops the extra weight means they don't transfer as much of the engine vibes.

Hope this helps, but a bit like seats everyone has different requirements and likes
Click to expand...

I have used Fastway on every bmw now, but never with the grubscrews installed. Bigger platform, slightly lower, WNTL?
 
Lower pegs

Winjar said:
never adjust touch rear brake pedal or disaster will follow on wethead. :beerjug:
Click to expand...

I was wondering if it was possible to get lowered pegs for 2021 1250 GSA. Like OP I’ve got seat as high as practical, but would like a bit more legroom. Would it be impossible to alter brake downwards also, or have I misunderstood your comment?
Thanks
 
You said that before, but didn't answer my comment. Any reason for this "disaster" happening - I see your name on lots of posts, so presume you have quite a lot of experience of these bike.
 
JerryR said:
You said that before, but didn't answer my comment. Any reason for this "disaster" happening - I see your name on lots of posts, so presume you have quite a lot of experience of these bike.
Click to expand...

apology did not read, yes adjust wrong will result in rear brake wheel seize, adjust at peril
 
JerryR said:
You said that before, but didn't answer my comment. Any reason for this "disaster" happening - I see your name on lots of posts, so presume you have quite a lot of experience of these bike.
Click to expand...
To explain a bit more based on what I've read, what looks like a rear brake pedal height adjustment device, isn't. It's actually an adjuster for the biting point of the brakes, so if you lower the pedal, you end up with the brakes binding on. Or something like that.
 
I believe the rear brake pedal is adjustable without causing problems.
The brake pedal is raised by a spring and the upward movement appears to come to a halt when the slave cylinder piston is fully relaxed (extended). I suspect the piston rod comes up against a circlip ?
By adjusting the effective length of the piston rod the other end of the pedal moves accordingly.
So whatever adjustment you have the brake travel before bite remains the same as the piston in the cylinder is always in the same position when pedal not pressed .
Hope that makes sense, its my thoughts, any comments ?
 
So explained further (my thoughts)
To lower the brake pedal:
Hold the piston rod with a slim spanner - may need to push the rubber up - and slacken locknut that is hard against the clevis.
Screw piston rod using a slim spanner so that it screws into the clevis nut. This will draw the clevis upwards and the pedal will move downwards. Re tighten locknut
The piston rod is now effectively shorter but still sits in the same position in the cylinder, ie fully extended.
You could possibly cause brake binding if you tried to raise the pedal too far. In this case the pedal fouls the frame and if you continue to try and raise further the piston will rise in the cylinder as the clevis cant move downward due to the pedal/frame foul.
 
I had the Touratech Works on the 1200.
Lower and much larger.
Haven’t needed them on the 1250 as the Rallye ones are different to the 1200 we’re.
 
Big Si said:
In an attempt to ease the pressure a little on my ageing knees :mad: I have been looking at different ways and makes of lower foot peg kits, eg. oem BMW, Wunderlich, SW Motech etc. I already have the front of the seat on 'high' and I'm on tip toe to reach the ground so I don't want to go for a higher seat.

I would appreciate any thoughts, experiences and recommendations on the subject.....cheers. :thumb
Click to expand...

I'm 6'5" and lowered the pegs. Not essential, but for long rides the more the comfort the more the fun. I also have rather big size 15's and so went the whole hog with Wunderlich 30mm lowering, their footpegs with rubber, extendable gear lever and brake lever + brake lever lowering bracket. In my view its as good as I can make it. My GSA has enormous ground clearance and so the 30mm lowering has had no effect. I used to ground my GTL regularly, haven't come close yet on the '21' GSA.

A slight downside. With the footpegs fully lowered in the 6 o'clock position it is difficult to use the dedicated lever on the side stand. The footpeg comes very close to it. That said after a short while it became second nature to use the foot of the side stand instead (with Wunderlich enlargement) to extend the stand. This is by no means a cheap fix but what the hell, you can't take cash with you?
 
Hi Kev, I've added a Wunderlich Brake lever with extended footpad and the Wunderlich brake lowering bracket. If anything this has made the brake lower than would be ideal but it is usable now as opposed to being far to high with peg lowering. Before I attack mine with my two left hamfisted thumbs can I raise the brake pedal using your method?
 
BigT - I too am 6 foot five with a 21 GSA Rallye TE
I fitted the Wunderlich lowered pegs from Nippy Norman, expensive at almost £170 but well made. They say they are 25mm lower and also set the peg forward. I suspect its a bit less than 25mm.
After fitting them I lowered the brake pedal by the same amount as peg drop. Then I decided to fit rubbers to the pegs and they sit proud quite a bit so my feet are virtually back where they were !
So, if your slave piston rod and clevis arrangement are still OEM then yes you should be able to raise the brake lever. Check that no part of the brake lever fouls the frame as it rises. Make sure when you are done that the brake return spring is still exerting an upward force on the brake lever and thus a downward force at the clevis. If its right, as you operate the brake pedal down with your hand you should see the small clevis pin clearance take up before load is applied to the piston.
 
Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
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