R1100GS final drive

So looks like the FD bearing is on its way out again..this will be the second one I've fitted ,so there must be something else up with it ..too thick shims in either behind the cover plate or behind the actual taper roller..looks a bit too complex for me to do myself..typical after paying £1700 on a gearbox rebuild and the labour to remove/fit gearbox n new clutch...jeez should've jus foned motorworks n sold it as spares if I'd known it was gonna cost me this much n more...

You have blown the budget with that one

Fuck me! Did they use platinum parts for that rebuild?? £660!!

There is an easy way to check the shimming on the FD if you have a depth micrometer and a source of heat ??

Parts ...
Clutch friction plate replacement | CLA25352 1 63.00 63.00 63.00
Clutch bolt | CLA54417 6 2.10 12.60 75.60
Clutch bolt washer | CLA42377 6 0.65 3.90 79.50
Clutch diaphragm spring | CLA42353 1 36.84 36.84 116.34
Clutch actuation pushrod felt seal | CLA30440 1 3.00 3.00 119.34
Used - Clutch actuation piston | CLT64167 0 18.00 0.00 119.34
Input shaft 5 speed complete R1100GS GET45512 1 95.00 95.00 214.34
BMW exhaust clamp EXA41478 1 21.60 21.60 235.94
Used - Clutch p'rod steel with groove | CLT40391 1 17.00 17.00 252.94
Motorworks PnP 3.90+4.30+4.80+5.50 18.5 18.50 18.50 271.44
Pilot bulb 4 watt inside headlight | LIA63576 1 0.90 0.90 272.34
Throttle body to airbox inlet duct O-ring | FUA41797 2 1.99 3.98 276.32
Crush washer bevel box filler SIA63200 1 0.32 0.32 276.64
M8x30 ssteel allen head bolt (silencer) SSA10479 1 1.02 1.02 277.66
M6 cage nut many uses | FRA26511 1 2.26 2.26 279.92Total
279.92
12.0 360.00 639.92
Hours Cost Running
279.92 279.92
Labour 32.7 986.00 1265.92
% £ 1265.92
discount (NATS) - % age on labour 10 98.60 -98.60 1167.32
to account - method date amount
0.00 1167.32
0.00 1167.32
0.00 1167.32
sub total 1167.32
powdercoating 23-Sep 50.00 1217.32
parcel away 26-Aug 32.98 1250.30
1250.30
1250.30
Total 1250.30
1250.30
Balance 1250.

20th 1.1 33.00
21st 1.3 72.00
2.4 144.00
23rd 0.5 159.00
2.9 246.00
1.2 282.00
24th 2.0 342.00
Sep 1.7 393.00
23rd 0.5 408.00
2.5 483.00
24th 0.8 507.00
0.6 525.00
0.7 546.00
1.4 588.00
0.4 600.00
25th 600.00
1.9 657.00
2.5 732.00
1.0 762.00
27th 762.00
762.00
1.9 819.00
0.8 843.00
28th 843.00
843.00
843.00
2.9 930.00
0.9 957.00
957.00
0.5 977.00
0.3 986.00
986.00
986.00
986.00
986.00
986.00
986.00
986.00
986.00
986.00
986.00
986.00
32.2 0.5 986.00
Repair rear light captive nut & fit a new one too, refit toolbox, torque subframe
& crash bar bolts (note 9) refit (broken) seat lock, secure wiring with tie-wraps,
refit pannier carriers & rear footrests. Fit sump guard, fill & bleed rear brake.
Sync throttle, which didn't work well due worn butterfly shaft in left throttle
body.
Refit fuel tank etc
Refit rear ABS lines and rear calliper, loosely fit front footrests
Clean & refit new clutch, fit gearbox
Glue rubber mounting the refit battery box
Retrieve seat sub-frame, refit same & begin reconnecting wiring etc
Fit new gear indicator switch seals, refit same.
Clean and reassemble clutch operating piston & arm, set clutch free-play
Remove old & fit new (supplied) swinging arm bearings, refit swinging arm
Remove fog lamp wiring from fuse/relay box. Refit fuse box.
Torque rear wheel bolts, fit rear brake calliper. Check fastener security
Labour type
Remove rear mudguard, pannier carrier & fuel tank
Modify rear wiring harness, drain rear brake, drain & remove bevel box
Remove rear sub-frame (nb swing arm pivots reluctant to loosen)
Refit RR mudguard, loosely fit luggage carrier
Refit left TB with new O ring, loosely refit crash-bars & subframe bolts. Refit
rear shocker and bevel box (note 6)
New bolt for silencer, secure ABS pipes & Lambda wiring, refit offside throttle
body, engage subframe bolts. Attempt to free broken screw in rear lamp unit -
note 8.
Clean & refit g'box drain plug, refill g'box with oil (supplied)
Refill bevel oil (supplied) note 7. Adjust bevel box bear's refit silencer
Strip sub-frame transport to powder-coater
Remove swing arm by cutting through pivots on each side
Remove gearbox and clutch
Fabricate transport pallet, investigate spot light wiring.


£1250 parts n labour not including the gearbox rebuild by mikey which was jus under £500

JohnnyBoxer said:

You have blown the budget with that one

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Dont..I know it...

DrFarkoff said:

Fuck me! Did they use platinum parts for that rebuild?? £660!!

There is an easy way to check the shimming on the FD if you have a depth micrometer and a source of heat ??

Click to expand...

Nope jus a rebuild new seals ,bearings (and a used output shaft £95 which was costed on the final bill rather than included in mikes bill)

think of it like its a new bike last you for years now

West coast gser said:

Dont..I know it...

Click to expand...

You will have to keep it forever now

ynotbiker said:

think of it like its a new bike last you for years now

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friggin better

I know where there’s a freshly FULLY rebuilt 850 GS final drive about to become available!
Rebuilt by Mikeyboy too. He’s now done my 1150 one too so that’s going back on in two weeks.

I have ( in total ) probably just spent the best part of £6k on my 02 1150 GS. Way more than it’s worth but it’s like new again and a lot cheaper than a new bike. It’s ultra reliable now having nearly every moving part replaced for new. My bike is a keeper so in my eyes worth spending it.

It’s the most fun GS so be thankful

@West coast gser PM sent

kondorpilot said:

@West coast gser PM sent

Click to expand...

Replied ..

ynotbiker said:

think of it like its a new bike last you for years now

Click to expand...

not really....

you do your sums , like the brothers i used to be in business with .

gearbox rebuild by mikey which was just under £500 . this is the cost of the rebuild , plus parts used in gearbox.

theoneandonly said:

you do your sums , like the brothers i used to be in business with .

gearbox rebuild by mikey which was just under £500 . this is the cost of the rebuild , plus parts used in gearbox.

Click to expand...

?? Don't get what yer getting at ?

hells bells, the parts for the Final drive bearing and seal are not expensive, took about 30 minutes to take apart, and same to put together, possibly another 30 minutes to heat the bearing to get it of and then a short trip to local dealer with a press to press the new bearing on, I did the whole thing in a field in Belgium and then rode it 2000 miles on a trip round the black Forrest, it is really easy to do. did the wifes at home and then with the hub in the freezer over night and the bearing in the oven for an hour you dont need the press to put the new bearing on it just slips into place. There is a how to on here it is a very simple job

bowser said:

hells bells, the parts for the Final drive bearing and seal are not expensive, took about 30 minutes to take apart, and same to put together, possibly another 30 minutes to heat the bearing to get it of and then a short trip to local dealer with a press to press the new bearing on, I did the whole thing in a field in Belgium and then rode it 2000 miles on a trip round the black Forrest, it is really easy to do. did the wifes at home and then with the hub in the freezer over night and the bearing in the oven for an hour you dont need the press to put the new bearing on it just slips into place. There is a how to on here it is a very simple job

Click to expand...

I've already done one with a hammer n bolster to work the bearing up n off n hub in freezer n bearing in oven and it lasted 12000 miles n it's on way again ..dunno how many it's went thru before I bought the bike ...thinking it's been shimmed wrong at factory n to much preload on the bearing..??

This is why I have a professional do stuff like this. Twice. I know it’s right and their reputation is on the line if it’s done wrong. Which it won’t be.