Keyfob probs !!

newbuild100

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GS1200 LC...18 plate (non tft)

...I have the l.ow battery idiot light on on the dash. I have renewed the battery (Twice) all to no avail. Anyone any suggestions what to look out for before I go to see Mr BMW. ?

Also, (and this may be linked)....Given that I sometimes leave my key very near the bike overnight for instance (by mistake)...why does the alarm go off when I move the bike the next day (When the key is sat on the seat for instance ??)

Thanks all
 
I got the same issue on my 1250.

Changed my battery with a new Varta on Monday last week when it said it was low. Friday morning, this message below greeted me.
Replaced it again with another new Varta and yesterday, the same message again. Duff batch of Varta batteries or the cold weather whilst riding in Scotland, I don't know?

My bike is going in for a service on Saturday and Lind said they will replace the battery with a BMW battery. If that doesn't help, they will need to check/replace the fob.

FOB.jpg
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Not sure there is such a thing as a "BMW battery". Even the parts fische shows a CR2032 !!"
 
My fob was eating batteries and the remote locking/alarm/unlock buttons only worked when they felt like it. Most of the time riding the bike the dashboard showed the "Can't Find The Key" symbol.
I was up to buying a new fob but tried one last thing, I opened up the case and squirted a load of WD40 in, since then its been working as it should. That was 18 months ago and have only had to spray WD40 in on one more occasion.
Worth a try:rob
 
I will try that later Watty. Thanks
 
Not sure there is such a thing as a "BMW battery". Even the parts fische shows a CR2032 !!"

The service guy at Lind probably meant OEM battery that BMW keep in stock to replace them. It could be any make, not sure which one they use.

I'll see how long their battery lasts after the service but if that one runs down quickly, they'll have to replace the fob.

I always thought that Varta batteries are good, they last for ages in my car's fob but will try Duracell next time.
 
Dont leave the Fob in range of bike when you leave it.

The bike keeps tab of the fob once linked.

leave it in range and they chat happily (bike running or not)


And use good batterys - Energiser Lithium are supposed to be good

And check the prongs in the fob,

I bent mine up to give a good contact, and added a small pad of cardboard on the inside of the fob, to stop the battery moving around

Touch wood it's been ok since
 
I have renewed the battery (Twice) all to no avail. Anyone any suggestions what to look out for before I go to see Mr BMW. ?

This happened to me, i also replaced that battery and same....
embarrassingly it turned out the BIKE battery was low.

I charged the bike and not had a problem since lol

I can only assume the bike was so low it struggled to contact the keyfob?

worth a try anyway
 
Not sure I understand that. Once the ignition is off, why would the bike be polling for the key?
 
Because the bike sees the key if in range and partly wakes up. A lot of cars are the same.


I don't get why that's needed with the bike. For things like access to the filler cap, it remains unlockable according to a timer since the ignition was switch off or if the timer has expired, it'll poll the key when you try to open the filler. It's not constantly polling for the key unless the filler or the central 'ignition' button is pressed or some other stimulus triggers it to poll. Surely.
 
Dont leave the Fob in range of bike when you leave it.

The bike keeps tab of the fob once linked.

leave it in range and they chat happily (bike running or not)
On the other hand, I offer my opinion, like yours, seemingly untroubled by either doubt or fact: Once the ignition is switched off then the bike doesn’t look for the fob unless the ignition switch is pressed.
Which is true? Or even, which is more likely than the opposing view?
Alan R
 
My fob was eating batteries and the remote locking/alarm/unlock buttons only worked when they felt like it. Most of the time riding the bike the dashboard showed the "Can't Find The Key" symbol.
I was up to buying a new fob but tried one last thing, I opened up the case and squirted a load of WD40 in, since then its been working as it should. That was 18 months ago and have only had to spray WD40 in on one more occasion.
Worth a try:rob

Well Watty . . . . I tried the above and so far so good. No "Key" symbols so far and alarm etc is working as it should. Thanks for all answers.
 
Dont leave the Fob in range of bike when you leave it.

The bike keeps tab of the fob once linked.

leave it in range and they chat happily (bike running or not)


And use good batterys - Energiser Lithium are supposed to be good

And check the prongs in the fob,

I bent mine up to give a good contact, and added a small pad of cardboard on the inside of the fob, to stop the battery moving around

Touch wood it's been ok since
Worked for me, Duracel were lasting about 3 weeks after the original died, Energiser lithium still ok after 6 months:okay
 
On the other hand, I offer my opinion, like yours, seemingly untroubled by either doubt or fact: Once the ignition is switched off then the bike doesn’t look for the fob unless the ignition switch is pressed.
Which is true? Or even, which is more likely than the opposing view?
Alan R

And to counter your argument... how then does the key fob know the ignition has been turned on, if it is turned off?? ;)

One or the other stays in a listening state for activation's... ( eg how does the bike know the alarm function has been activated / de activated etc via the fob)

whilst they are "off" for the purposes of using the bike, each will draw a very low current to keep the relevant listening circuits operational , so they can wake up when

required ;)
 


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