R1100GS final drive

West coast gser

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So the FD bearing is a bit noisy on my 1100 I had read that they were set up at the factory with too much preload on the bearing so thinking if I just change the shim/washer under the taper roller to a slightly thinner one it should take away some preload ..??
 
So the FD bearing is a bit noisy on my 1100 I had read that they were set up at the factory with too much preload on the bearing so thinking if I just change the shim/washer under the taper roller to a slightly thinner one it should take away some preload ..??

No! :rob You need to check Which bearing is noisy inspect and or replace it! But when rebuilding it with a new "big" bearing you should "check" the preload!

There are a couple of videos on the net

But basically remove the shims push the crown wheel back into the Black housing and see how much the part where the wheel mounts to protrudes from the alloy housing

Then set the FD housing on the bench or whatever and set the black housing in place on top when its cooled and just nip 3 or 4 bolts up you can leave the big O ring off for this bit too

Start heating the black housing with a heat gun or torch moving the heat about evenly and once it gets somewhere above hand hot it will drop down into the main FD casing

Let it cool and take a few measurements of the protrusion when it cools

So 1st measurement - 2nd Measurement = "the space" and see what your shims add up to

Your idea is not bad, but your inner bearing has 10s of thousands of miles wear now and you may find that wear negates the extra preload
 
No! :rob You need to check Which bearing is noisy inspect and or replace it! But when rebuilding it with a new "big" bearing you should "check" the preload!

There are a couple of videos on the net

But basically remove the shims push the crown wheel back into the Black housing and see how much the part where the wheel mounts to protrudes from the alloy housing

Then set the FD housing on the bench or whatever and set the black housing in place on top when its cooled and just nip 3 or 4 bolts up you can leave the big O ring off for this bit too

Start heating the black housing with a heat gun or torch moving the heat about evenly and once it gets somewhere above hand hot it will drop down into the main FD casing

Let it cool and take a few measurements of the protrusion when it cools

So 1st measurement - 2nd Measurement = "the space" and see what your shims add up to

Your idea is not bad, but your inner bearing has 10s of thousands of miles wear now and you may find that wear negates the extra preload

Seems easy enough to do that way.. cheers ..the bike is away to mikeyboy to get gearbox seals n associated parts done.. will have a look @ doing it when it comes back from him ..Ive replaced the big fd bearing before and now need to do it again only got 20,000 miles out of it n looks like its gone again by the gunk on the fd drain bolt magnet ..I never repalced the taper roller bearing when I done the bearing so for all I know it could be the original one ??so do you remove the seal when doing the measuring? or from the seal to the hub/protusion ?
 


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