no spark!

bob d

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I had my 1150gs parked in heavy rain for two days.

Today it started fine, but after 10 minutes was dead.

Ignition switch was cutting, no oil and N lights on the clocks..
After a while, electricity was back, now i have power in the fuel pump and starter motor...but no spark!
 
You haven't knocked the kill switch have you?

Sent from my SM-G986B using Tapatalk
 
Tristafarian said:
You haven't knocked the kill switch have you?

Sent from my SM-G986B using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

The fuel pump wouldn’t prime with the kill switch in the kill position.

bob d said:
I had my 1150gs parked in heavy rain for two days.

Today it started fine, but after 10 minutes was dead.

Ignition switch was cutting, no oil and N lights on the clocks..
After a while, electricity was back, now i have power in the fuel pump and starter motor...but no spark!
Click to expand...

From what I can gather. All the electrics are working as they should be, motronic relay is operating and so the motronic is live and controlling the fuel pump relay which is priming the pump.

There may be water ingress issues still, but to have absolutely no spark sort of points to the crank shaft sensor..

It might help if you let us know what bike it is. Single spark twin spark.
 
I think I’m right in guessing your bike is a single spark, judging by your previous thread.

So you may have a faulty coil pack.
 
Yes, it's a single spark.
Is there a way to figure out if it's a faulty hallsensor or ignition Coli?
 
bob d said:
Yes, it's a single spark.
Is there a way to figure out if it's a faulty hallsensor or ignition Coli?
Click to expand...

If you lift the tank to access the coil pack and unplug it. Give it a good visual inspection for cracks.

Check the resistance of the primary coil between pins 1 and 2 it should be low, between 0.5 to 2 ohms

Check the resistance of the secondary coil between the two high tension (spark plug leads) it should be high. Greater than 15k ohms.

I’m not sure of the exact values, these are generic values

Search online for “testing ignition coils”.

Hopefully someone will have the correct values for a good coil.
 
Found it…

Primary coil winding resistance should be……………..0.5 ohms.
secondary coil winding resistance should be…..…..13k ohms.
 
Ian J Hartley said:
Found it…

Primary coil winding resistance should be……………..0.5 ohms.
secondary coil winding resistance should be…..…..13k ohms.
Click to expand...
nice!
i can put the coil from my 1100rt...i think they are the same.
Also i didnt check the injectors for spraying....i will do that tomorrow
 
Ian J Hartley said:
Found it…

Primary coil winding resistance should be……………..0.5 ohms.
secondary coil winding resistance should be…..…..13k ohms.
Click to expand...

Today i removed the coil..
Nothing..
I measured the primary and secondary winding...nothing at all..
 
bob d said:
Today i removed the coil..
Nothing..
I measured the primary and secondary winding...nothing at all..
Click to expand...

That is most likely your problem.

Try measuring the coil on your RT for comparison, just to confirm your measuring technique/instrument is good.
 
Ian J Hartley said:
That is most likely your problem.

Try measuring the coil on your RT for comparison, just to confirm your measuring technique/instrument is good.
Click to expand...

yes, you are right!
Finally,i measured high voltage coils at 7.15 kohms
But the primary coil is dead...

i will swap the coil from the 1100RT...to be sure
 
update.
I put the coil from the Rt.

No spark.
I have a spare hallsensor but its for 1100, with the old style plug.
If i swap the plugs?
 
bob d said:
update.
I put the coil from the Rt.

No spark.
I have a spare hallsensor but its for 1100, with the old style plug.
If i swap the plugs?
Click to expand...

Do you really want to start cutting and soldering wires when you haven’t diagnosed the fault. All you could be doing is introducing yet another option to the fault diagnoses. The idea of diagnoses is to tick off the possible options causing the problem. You could be adding options
 
Steptoe said:
Do you really want to start cutting and soldering wires when you haven’t diagnosed the fault. All you could be doing is introducing yet another option to the fault diagnoses. The idea of diagnoses is to tick off the possible options causing the problem. You could be adding options
Click to expand...

You are right..
My mind goes only to HES, but i cant by sure.
When i first turn the igniton switch, there is a delay...about 1 second for the dash lights to turn on and pump to prime.
After the first try, if i close the switch and turn on again there isnt any delay..

Before the electrical fault there was no delay
 
bob d said:
You are right..
My mind goes only to HES, but i cant by sure.
When i first turn the igniton switch, there is a delay...about 1 second for the dash lights to turn on and pump to prime.
After the first try, if i close the switch and turn on again there isnt any delay..

Before the electrical fault there was no delay
Click to expand...

I’m assuming when you say dash lights, you’re referring to the Rider information Display.

You shouldn’t have a delay, try swapping your motronic relay with your horn relay see if you can get rid of the delay.
 
Ian J Hartley said:
I’m assuming when you say dash lights, you’re referring to the Rider information Display.

You shouldn’t have a delay, try swapping your motronic relay with your horn relay see if you can get rid of the delay.
Click to expand...

What about side stand switch...Can a faulty switch do this?
Also , have these bikes diagnostic plug for errors?
I dont think i can manage this alone, i can cope with wrencihng but not with electrical problems
 
Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
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