Surplus EBikes?

I suspect there are folk who had ebikes on cycle to work schemes that can sell them on and almost cover their outlay, and get a brand new bike on the next C2W scheme. That’s the case with my haibike which has a secondhand value more than it’s actually cost me to buy it. I don’t think this is any different to regular bicycles in that regard but as the market for ebikes is relatively young it’s perhaps more noticeable.
 
e-bikes tend to be hard on the drive train. You might need to budget for some replacement drive train parts and brake pads on any secondhand bike.

I've done 3k miles on mine over 18 months and am on the 3rd chain, 2nd rear sprocket and second set of brake pads. Mostly road and tow path type use. Was surprised how quickly the first two chains stretched to the point of needing replaced. The latest Shimano XT e-bike specific chain is lasting better - that was £40 though. 12 speed transmission is also more expensive parts than 9 or 10 speed - you don't need 12 gears on an e-bike.
 
e-bikes tend to be hard on the drive train. You might need to budget for some replacement drive train parts and brake pads on any secondhand bike.

I've done 3k miles on mine over 18 months and am on the 3rd chain, 2nd rear sprocket and second set of brake pads. Mostly road and tow path type use. Was surprised how quickly the first two chains stretched to the point of needing replaced. The latest Shimano XT e-bike specific chain is lasting better - that was £40 though. 12 speed transmission is also more expensive parts than 9 or 10 speed - you don't need 12 gears on an e-bike.

Do you back off pedalling when changing up through the gears? Which motor are you on? On my (Yamaha motor) the chains fine after 1500 miles, as are the sprockets. I noticed that other motors such as Bosch seem to have much smaller front chainrings which no doubt stresses the components more too.
 
I’ve had hardtails for years and love em, but there are times when I’m skipping down a rocky descent that I’d love a full susser. One thing I can recommend is a Suntour SP12-NCX suspension seatpost. If you’re on a hardtail it’s a major step up in terms of comfort.

Me too - hardtail only as I like the feeling of control you get. When I raced MTB's for Specialized many, many years ago; I didn't even have suspension forks on my VERY light steel Stumpjumper Pro (before S Works!!). How I wish I still had that bike now.....
 
e-bikes tend to be hard on the drive train. You might need to budget for some replacement drive train parts and brake pads on any secondhand bike.

I've done 3k miles on mine over 18 months and am on the 3rd chain, 2nd rear sprocket and second set of brake pads. Mostly road and tow path type use. Was surprised how quickly the first two chains stretched to the point of needing replaced. The latest Shimano XT e-bike specific chain is lasting better - that was £40 though. 12 speed transmission is also more expensive parts than 9 or 10 speed - you don't need 12 gears on an e-bike.

About 5k on myTrek with original drive train being XT Cassette and Chain. Looks pretty worn but refuses to skip or jump even on full Gas. Waiting for it to give problems before I will replace with another XT Cassette and a Wipperman Chain (as they are bullet proof).
 
Do you back off pedalling when changing up through the gears? Which motor are you on? On my (Yamaha motor) the chains fine after 1500 miles, as are the sprockets. I noticed that other motors such as Bosch seem to have much smaller front chainrings which no doubt stresses the components more too.

Yes, I back off and the Gen 2 CX motor has this built in as well. The small front chainring doesn't seem to affect wear and is possibly due to running through a Gearbox that I assume reduces slap and whip due to the pedal stroke. I did up the front ring to 20T (with a 2.5:1 gearbox makes an effective 50T) to run the cassette halfway (15-21T) rather than down in the 11-14T range that can kill chains. Gives me a stupidly quick top speed as well if I need to see off a fully lycra TdF wannabe.
 
e-bikes tend to be hard on the drive train. You might need to budget for some replacement drive train parts and brake pads on any secondhand bike.

I've done 3k miles on mine over 18 months and am on the 3rd chain, 2nd rear sprocket and second set of brake pads. Mostly road and tow path type use. Was surprised how quickly the first two chains stretched to the point of needing replaced. The latest Shimano XT e-bike specific chain is lasting better - that was £40 though. 12 speed transmission is also more expensive parts than 9 or 10 speed - you don't need 12 gears on an e-bike.

I had a quick look today at my ebike transmission- 2200 miles done mainly road and a few off road tracks and canal paths.
Chain barely worn and sprockets in good condition and I do push the bike a bit!
I also clean and relube the chain frequently so wonder if this is the reason the transmission is lasting well.
 
Loved my Specialized Levo hardtail which I had for 2 years, I started off on cycleways and fire roads, but then got a bit more adventurous going more and more off road, I only sold the hardtail to get a full suspension bike, I’m no daredevil doing massive jumps or anything, but the full suspension bike opens up more possibilities, here we are trying out the GoPro at llandegla doing nothing fantastic, but it’s a place which I would not have gone to on the hard tail.

 
About 5k on myTrek with original drive train being XT Cassette and Chain. Looks pretty worn but refuses to skip or jump even on full Gas. Waiting for it to give problems before I will replace with another XT Cassette and a Wipperman Chain (as they are bullet proof).

5000 miles on the original cassette and chain ??
 
I kept on eye on my Haibike Sduro and changed the chain at the first sign of my gauge slotting into the chain. Just about 1000 miles in about 6 or 7 months.

I've stopped using the ebike for winter as my far lighter, no suspension, hybrid has nice grippy all season tyres, but I'm fitter than I was before using the ebike? I used to walk up 2 fairly big hills, and now I can get all the way home!

Not bad for almost 50 and with knackered lungs.
 
I kept on eye on my Haibike Sduro and changed the chain at the first sign of my gauge slotting into the chain. Just about 1000 miles in about 6 or 7 months.

I've stopped using the ebike for winter as my far lighter, no suspension, hybrid has nice grippy all season tyres, but I'm fitter than I was before using the ebike? I used to walk up 2 fairly big hills, and now I can get all the way home!

Not bad for almost 50 and with knackered lungs.
I’m surprised you changed the chain at around 1000 miles.
Did you check the chain with your gauge when the chain was new? I had a gauge that was very hit and miss with checking chain wear!
 
I’m surprised you changed the chain at around 1000 miles.
Did you check the chain with your gauge when the chain was new? I had a gauge that was very hit and miss with checking chain wear!

I did check the chain when it was brand new, as I realised just how dear the chain and a cluster of cogs would be compared to the usual 8 speed cluster and chains which I use until they act up, and then change the pair of them.

In the past, I'm ashamed to admit, I would use a relatively cheap but decent bike until it was worn out and simply buy another. My previous bike was the best I'd had, so I bought another the following year and kept them both going for a good few years. The hardest worn one has just been scavenged for parts, as I bent the rear derailleur mount whilst trying to decide which was going to be this years winter bike :blast
 
I have learned one thing over tha last week.

If purchasing second hand, (or owning) beware of Shimano motors. If any part in the motor goes faulty other than bearings, there are no spares available. The only option is a complete new motor.
A friend left me in such a bike last week.(E8000 motor) Faulty socket/powerlead into motor. Nothing available anywhere.
CAUTION.
 
If purchasing second hand, (or owning) beware of Shimano motors. If any part in the motor goes faulty other than bearings, there are no spares available. The only option is a complete new motor.
A friend left me in such a bike last week.(E8000 motor) Faulty socket/powerlead into motor. Nothing available anywhere.
CAUTION.

How much is a motor?
 

So are Bosch batteries that have a habit of not working properly. If I was buying a second-hand ebike, I would insist on a health report that an authorised dealer can do for around £20. The report (in the case of Bosch) details the condition of the Motor, Battery Cells and Management System and Control Unit. Not that I would with the Warranty transfer issues that blight pushbikes.....
 
So are Bosch batteries that have a habit of not working properly. If I was buying a second-hand ebike, I would insist on a health report that an authorised dealer can do for around £20. The report (in the case of Bosch) details the condition of the Motor, Battery Cells and Management System and Control Unit. Not that I would with the Warranty transfer issues that blight pushbikes.....

Yes, but at least in the case of batteries, one can rebuild at home, providing, that is, one can get good 18650 cells. That is the hard part. Most available are spurious rubbish.
 
Yes, but at least in the case of batteries, one can rebuild at home, providing, that is, one can get good 18650 cells. That is the hard part. Most available are spurious rubbish.

It is not the cells that give up on the Bosch batteries but the rather complex Battery Management System. The thing even knows how many times you have either part or fully charged it. I have had one fail completely (displayed a full battery but was as flat as a pancake and would not take any more charge; Bosch replaced under warranty as under two years old) and another that started to give problems but a deletion and install of software (on a battery!!) brought it back to life. On an eBike!! Imagine what the systems on elex cars are going to be like :aidan
 


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