R1100GS it broke down!

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SiRich said:
Thanks guys I appreciate the suggestions, it’s a bloody nightmare when you chuck £450 at a cheap ish bike for the garage to achieve f all.
Click to expand...

WTF did they do for £450 !

my 1150 would , cough and spit whilst driving , be hard to start even when hot , s/m would crank REALLY slowly , like the battery was flat , would cut out at the lights and while moving .

eventually it stopped. turn ign on , i would get the sound of frying bacon , around the injectors , as the h/sensors switched the injectors on and off .
 
theoneandonly said:
WTF did they do for £450 !

my 1150 would , cough and spit whilst driving , be hard to start even when hot , s/m would crank REALLY slowly , like the battery was flat , would cut out at the lights and while moving .

eventually it stopped. turn ign on , i would get the sound of frying bacon , around the injectors , as the h/sensors switched the injectors on and off .
Click to expand...

Thanks:beerjug:

I did ask them to pick it up and drop it off in a van so some charges for doing that, but yeah new TPS, plugs, fuel filter, overall pissed about with it sadly. How much is a hall sensor where can I get one new one maybe I can get them to fit it free? Frying bacon sounds right, second time it went tits up a mile from home I could swear I smelt a burning, bike has approx 40 k miles on it.
 
I’m relying on a really imperfect memory here but I remember a couple of tests for Hall sensor, I think along the lines of:

1) There are 3 wires not the sensor, one is switch, one is earth and one is 12v live. If you tap the switch wire to earth you should get an injection pulse (and a spark I think).

2) Take out the plugs, put the bike in 5th, turn on the ign and turn the rear wheel by hand. You should get a fuel pump prime as the wheel rotates.

You should also see a spark and an injector pulse.

There’s a bit of my 1100 brain I’ve not used in a while.
 
This is a youtube video showing how to btpass your side stand switch, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-zerFDZqxYk&t=425s

You don't need to cut any wires. Just disconnect the plug and bridge the terminals on the engine side. You can reverse this and reconnect your plug if you have to.

If you decide your hall sensor is your problem it seems the cheapest are on ebay

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/144515740520?epid=1250095287&hash=item21a5cf3368:g:DUAAAOSwXkFiSu6o

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/114879246772?fits=UKM_Make:BMW&hash=item1abf5631b4:g:5HkAAOSw8-lcz1eO or the likes of motorworks https://www.motorworks.co.uk/parts/...1100gs--09-1993---08-1999--173&sid=350w46tWNa
 
Thanks for the suggestion, sounds like those hall sensors are prime suspect and the sidestand mod is worth doing. How do I know what hall sensor plug type on the 1100, do they vary, looks to be two options ?
 
SiRich said:
Thanks for the suggestion, sounds like those hall sensors are prime suspect and the sidestand mod is worth doing. How do I know what hall sensor plug type on the 1100, do they vary, looks to be two options ?
Click to expand...

You have the flat plug.
 
SiRich said:
Wish me luck for my next convo with ‘fuckwit motorcycles’
Click to expand...

Si do yourself a favour and pull the front cover and have a look at the wiring? If it's cracked and hardened its a very good suspect

Changing the Hall sensors is a half hour job Maybe an Hour on a REALLY bad day !
 
DrFarkoff said:
Si do yourself a favour and pull the front cover and have a look at the wiring? If it's cracked and hardened its a very good suspect

Changing the Hall sensors is a half hour job Maybe an Hour on a REALLY bad day !
Click to expand...
:beerjug:

will do Dr.

Will post an update when it eventually gets fixed. Top suggestions guys thanks.
 
MMMMM

Start with the simple things

I too think Hall Effect Sensor (HES) wiring. Pretty simple to change out. I suggest marking on the engine block where the HES plate is.
The two bottom holes are slots to allow adjustment. If re-installing the same item, line it up with the marks and should be all ok.
If a replacement item, could be a bit different, but at least it will be close.

Side stand switch.
Yep, if you by pass that wiring, it will eliminate that possibility

All other wiring
Check the other wires for chaffing and corrosion.

Resistance changes with temperature.
There might be current / amps / volts / what ever flowing thru the wire, but if the resistance is too high, the signal may not be enough for the ECU.
With the age of the 1100 this is possible, on the connector pins and also the wire.
As others have said, the corrosion can get in to the wire under the insulation.
Or the insulation can break down and wires can short.

I really dont think the TPS at all.
There are two tracks / wiper arms inside the TPS and so if one track was damaged, the other would still enable it to work.
 
I’ve chucked the towel in on it, the garage have been very fair, they said they were interested to run it themselves and didn’t want to hand it back with an issue still lurking given I’d spend dosh with them, offered me a fair price for it so I’ve sold it to them. Given the hassle and the fact the mot has run out too, I’m glad to see the back of it, I have my 1150 gsa and no space in the garage.

Thanks for all the suggestions and pointers!
 
Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
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