Fuel Tank lining up issues

Whitey

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Hi,
Just replaced my air filter and I can’t get the holes in the tank and the frame lugs to line up. They are not the same height, so I lifted the rear of the tank to get the right height but then the tank is too far back to live up horizontally.
I’m following a Haynes manual and it doesn’t mention raising the rear of the tank, but couldn’t see another way.

Am I missing something obvious? Any suggestions appreciated.

Thanks
Kev


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Hi,
Just replaced my air filter and I can’t get the holes in the tank and the frame lugs to line up. They are not the same height, so I lifted the rear of the tank to get the right height but then the tank is too far back to live up horizontally.
I’m following a Haynes manual and it doesn’t mention raising the rear of the tank, but couldn’t see another way.

Am I missing something obvious? Any suggestions appreciated.

Thanks
Kev


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What model & what year would be helpful, as would a picture or two

my clairvoyancy skills are a bit off at the mo
 
Sorry, I was in the que at the chip shop snd was rushing.

2010 GSA


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Tank is almost full, if that has a bearing.


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When I removed the tank mounting bolts, one side was too tight and the other not tight at all.
There was a gap of around an inch / 2.5 cm at the rear of the tank before I removed the bolts - it wasn’t resting on the top of the air box, not sure if this is correct as the bike is new to me.


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I’m thinking that the next step is to remove the tank and re-fit it, in the hope I discover something or correct the issue. Unless anyone can offer up any suggestions?


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Make sure the two cups are located at the front, the tank does not sit on top of he airbox, there's a good 20 - 30 mm gap above it to the tank.

If the tank is full, it's one hell of a weight in a plastic tank, they can distort under their own weight when not supported.

Find an appropriate block of wood to raise the rear of the tank up to align (ish) the bolt holes and finger tighten one at a time, don't tighten one fully before engaging the other...

For info, you don't need to remove the tank to change the air filter..

Roger.
 
I’m thinking that the next step is to remove the tank and re-fit it, in the hope I discover something or correct the issue. Unless anyone can offer up any suggestions?


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They can be a PITA to re-fit. Full of fuel is not good for re-fitting. Unless you can get most of the fuel out of it, you should get someone to give you a hand. There is a fair bit of wiggle room but it's difficult to do alone. The only thing is, you said it didn't look like it was installed properly so there might be something else going on.

Good luck.
 
ethanol in new nasty fuel distorts plastic - squash it back on the bungs and do the bolts up
 
ethanol in new nasty fuel distorts plastic - squash it back on the bungs and do the bolts up

What he says or leave it empty in a warm place for a couple of weeks and it will probably drop right back on.
 
Thanks for all the replies
It sounds like removing the fuel is the first step, so I’ll do that and lift the tank. I want to check the threads in the frame lugs and clean them up anyhow. Then I’ll see how fits empty.

Thanks for the general advice, I just thought I might be missing something and was surprised that the bolts and frame lugs took all that weight on their own.


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As G5RJO says, there's no need to touch the tank to change the air filter.

Yep, noted for next time. I followed the Hanyes manual and it said you need to raise the rear of the tank to remove the air duct…which I blindly did. If it’s doable without I won’t bother next time…. Bit late this time tho


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I've never removed or even raised the tank to do the air duct. Pull the two slide in clips and then just pull the duct off the push in tab and remove, a little bit of silicone spray
on things will ease installation and removal of the duct and clips next time round...

Roger....
 
I've never removed or even raised the tank to do the air duct. Pull the two slide in clips and then just pull the duct off the push in tab and remove, a little bit of silicone spray
on things will ease installation and removal of the duct and clips next time round...

Roger....

Roger that. Next time… ;-)

I drained the tank dry, lifted it, cleaned the threads and mounting brackets and re-sat it. I got one side it with a fight and enlisted the help of my partner for the other side, which made it doable.

I’ve never seen a bike line up so badly! Aftermarket parts I expect a little bit of a struggle and possibly a bit of machining but not factory parts. That said, it’s the first plastic tank I’ve dealt with and undeniably a monster, it’s also nearly 12 years old so I’ll forgive it a little.

Thanks again for all the advice.


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Your doing something wrong,

Ive had the tank of my hexhead three of four times now, and each time it goes back on with very little issue

you have to push it forward on the c lugs really hard and then lower it down on the rear, it lines up perfectly

i reckon youve got something misaligned at the back of the tank (prolly the airbox assy )
 
+1 for Santa's comment. Mine also slides on and lines up - yes, the rear of the tank needs lifting, but the bolts find their home pretty easily.

It's it possible a stalk with the rubber bungs had had a knock?

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+1 for Santa's comment. Mine also slides on and lines up - yes, the rear of the tank needs lifting, but the bolts find their home pretty easily.

It's it possible a stalk with the rubber bungs had had a knock?

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It is very possible, I rotated and cleaned up the bungs and loosened the bung retaining bolts in the stalks incase they were pinched up or warped. The next time I take it off I’ll have a look at it from above to see if they are miss aligned. It did cross my mind that it might have had a knock somewhere. That said, no obvious signs of damage anywhere.


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the rear needs a small spacer once the bolts are out - I use a bit of 15mm pine
my tank has grown 15mm wider and I have to squash back on the front bungs - its that ethanol shit in euro fuel and now ours....
 


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